Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

I'm sure if you took pictures of some gaycock stuffed in your mouth you'd get satisfaction.

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

Can try Ackland Grainger. I don't know. There is ways. but if you don't have a business account it's hard.

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

Grainger in the USA does counter sales now... they ask for (business) name to keep track of orders, but do not require an account or a business/tax ID number to purchase from them anymore. I'd think a foreign branch would be similar... ???

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

I just had a couple of questions for you guys
Im really interested in trying this but can i do it with bottom end still assembled or i have to tear it down?I dont wnana have to take off my pistons

also would it make a difference if i did it in two sections like fill it up half way, then add salt in the middle and do it again to make sort of a gap inbetween to keep it a bit cooler
what do you score the walls with?

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

you dont need to absolutely disassemble the bottom end. just make sure you duct tape or tape really well all the holes exposed (oil, water, and piston cylinders) on top so that you wont get the aluminum in them when you are pouring. You could essentially do the bottom first and then let it cure then pour salt and then pour the top part. Not sure if it will make any difference in terms of stability, but its worth a try. Just use some good grit sandpaper... anywhere from 400-800. You just want to make sure the waterjacket is clean and also a bit scored so the aluminum can adhere to the walls well.

Also note, dont pour the aluminum in <70 degree F weather because it will be like putty. Pour it when its kind of warm outside or if you have your block in an warmer environment (i.e. in the house with the heater on) than 70 degrees. It just makes pouring it alot easier.

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

I asked my machine shop about this when I brought my block in. They told me the hot tank only gets to about 150-160deg. Your coolent gets hotter than that so its completely safe. I got my block back the other day and the devcon seemed to have turned a shade darker after being through the hot tank but thats it.

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

My block's been sitting here for a minute, the epoxy gets a little darker over time.

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

agreed! back when i originally did this i asked the same question of the machine shop and they said as long as it's fully cured and prepped properly, you will have no problems. i had the head decked, bored, honed and hot-tanked after the fact and pushing 22+psi (14b) after the fact.

I really wish i would have thought about the epsom salt idea instead of the snow salt..... it's alot smaller grit and would allow for a more even pour.

all of this sounds real good and seem to be comming along great w/ other ppl's ideas and inguinuity.

stepping up in size of turbo (T3 49/48).... hopefully to be pushing 400whp outta a D16a6 w/ LS rods and filled, daily driven 20 psi .... we'll see.

keep up the good work.

DR.Mike

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

you should pick up the t3/t4 I have, that'll rip on it.

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

what did u do to pre clean the water jacket?