Tough-guy

There is a specification for "bore-taper" and "out of roundness". Starting from either the bottom or the top, Measure the bore diameter axially in an X and Y pattern with a bore gauge. In other words if you are looking down the bore, you would place the bore gauge about 5mm down the bore, from the deck, in the 12 O'clock and 6 O'clock position. Then again in the 9 and 3 O'clock position. Move the gauge to the center of the bore and repeat these steps (recording your readings on paper with an X + Y matrix). Move the gauge to the bottom of the cylinder and repeat once again then compare your readings.

-Bore tape is the greatest measurement minus the smallest measurement on all the X's and all the Y's successively.

-Out of roundness or "egg shaped-ness" is going to be the largest reading between the X + Y of one position in the cylinder minus the smallest one. Continue up or down the bore and look at the differences between final numbers to determine how out of round the cylinder is and if is beyond the spec. boring maybe necessary.
Keep in mind if the taper and roundness are in spec. you may be able to get away with stone honing or even a ball hone just to break the glaze.

Hope that helped,

Adam

confUsed

Hey, thanks for the warm welcome

The quote I got was about $800. I dont know what you guys pay, but right now thats money I dont have. The block thats sitting in the garage now is really fucked, I dont event know if 75.5mm is going to take care of the scratches, and it also has pieces of the rod bearing everywhere, so I have decided to just leave it. D16 blocks is unfortunately not very easy to find around here, but the block in my car right now looked fine the last time I saw the cylinders, so if it is still good when the season ends, I'll measure it hopefully drop some stock bore vitaras down there. If it last a year or even maybe two its good. The thrill of passing a ricer on the circuit gets ten times higher when you know you have paid 1/10th for your car

thanks

Tom-Guy

You can call up Golden Eagle and talk ---- for a minute, butter them, they will quote you something around $875 to sleeve your block and will include return shipping in that price. So, yeah, $800 is a bit steep for labor even if the machinist is building the short block.

Try another machine shop, not all are ********. $15-20 per hole bored, a flat fee to hot tank ($30-50), a flat fee to deck the block (not always needed, $?? so lets say $70), and then a $100 added on for no reason I can think of comes to $300 tops.

confUsed

Yeah, I live in the wrong country I guess... I'll just keep looking for other shops, I might be lucky. Doing the .20 over would be the best, but paying $800 for labour and putting in $100 pistons feels a bit stupid

Tom-Guy

What country?

confUsed

Norway... Everything that includes cars are ridiculous expensive here. I keep hearing its supposed to be a rich country, but we have close to the worst/oldest cars in europe, and the shittiest roads, so IDK

Guy-Fast

Um call around more thats about 800 dollars an hour for labor

bigdaddyvtec

ANother route to get a deall on GE sleeves is to go through Tom at camp1320.com Thats where I gfot my GE's done... They give a better deal than GE does themselves.

Food for thought

Tough-guy

^Good to see you got your screener back.

widebody93

I use L.A. Sleeve for my sleeves. contact Dave Metchkoff at dave@lasleeve.com I get my sleeves for around $76 a pop and my machinist charges $300 to install them.