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EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
http://www.codyberman.com/balljoint.JPG
Which one am i supposed to seperate? The one directly below the rotor or the one on the side? Any tips on how to seperate them? Im using a puickle fork but its being a bitch |
Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
the one on the side is a tie rod mount. the one on the bottom is a ball joint........
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
remove the nut then hit the spindle really hard with a BFH. Dont hit the ball joint, it will mess up the threads.
If your trying to get the axle out it is easier to remove the strut, then unbolt the upper control arm from the body. |
Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
It's all about the wedge type tool.
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
Originally Posted by Minor Threat
It's all about the wedge type tool.
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
Bushings shmushings...you want the balljoint off the arm or not? ;D
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
prybar and hammer. pry up on the balljoint, and hit the lower control arm
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
i feel like this shouldnt be this hard, yet they still arent off yet. any more ideas? ive used a pickle fork and just hammering away
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
Jhuast kidding...got it out. I disconnected struts from LCA, then jacked up rotors with piece of wood inbetween then started hammering. They actually came out pretty easy that way
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
I always ---- the ---- out of them with a pickle fork ;D no wonder why I change my ball joint twice a year
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
God Damnit. I got everytihng off and was putting in the new pressure plate and snapped a ------- bolt :7
Is it okay to use bolts from the hardware store or do i need a honda replacement? |
Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
honda replacement.
There's gotta be someone near you who's into blowing up SOHC's, I know I've got about 40 spare PP bolts laying around. I'd send you one for like $1 paypal, but it would take awhile. |
Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
Anyone else? I was hoping to just be able to get like a grade 8 bolt
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
Originally Posted by rudebwoy
I always ---- the ---- out of them with a pickle fork ;D no wonder why I change my ball joint twice a year
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
Originally Posted by Minor Threat
Eh, if you do it carefully enough you can just get new seals from Honda. They're under half the price of a new balljoint. I just learned that today.
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
How much? I always destroy boots taking them off...
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
Originally Posted by cberman
Anyone else? I was hoping to just be able to get like a grade 8 bolt
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
Originally Posted by LSD Motorsports
You can do that, its not the end of the world if you dont use the oem honda. Just make sure you dont over tighten again. Post up some more pictures of those sexy rotors man.
I ended up using non oem bolts and borrowing a nicer torque wrench from a neighbor...now clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate are bolted up and torqued. I was replacing the the pilot bearing and that metal wire thing in there seems to be loose now. Where do the two ends of the wire go? I can't imagine they just are loose like that LSD, ill look for the camera charger and take some pics. They are real nice, and frankly I have nothing to do until my bro gets here to help me lift the tranny back in |
Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
Originally Posted by Minor Threat
How much? I always destroy boots taking them off...
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
here are the wire things i was talking about:
http://www.codyberman.com/shifterfork.JPG The sexy slotted LSD rotors with Axxis Ultimates pads (which im sure are only going to last me a short time seeing as how much break dust is everywhere :) http://www.codyberman.com/rotors.JPG And the installed 6 puck sprung clutch with 8 lb fly http://www.codyberman.com/clutch.JPG |
Re: EDIT: Clutch/Balljoint/Shifter Fork Question
Figured it out.
Now im having a bear of a time getting the tranny back in. At one point there were 4 of us trying to get it in the most HMT ways ever, involoving bags of mulch, creepers, a bmw jack, etc, but to no avail. its pretty easy to get it close but to get the dowel pins in is a bitch. Anyone have some tips on how they got their tranny back in |
Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
step 1: pick transmission up
step 2: put transmission on step 3. tighten bolts |
Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
Originally Posted by FooK
step 1: pick transmission up
step 2: put transmission on step 3. tighten bolts |
Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
no it can sometimes be hard, 2 people is nice, 3 people is a luxury. 1 guy on the bottom holding the tranny up along with a jack. 1 guy in front of the car aligning dowel pins and putting first bolt in. 3rd guy on passanger fender helping lift and forcing the tranny and dowel pins in.
Good luck man. Brake dust is hard to avoid with the semi metallic performance pads. Doesnt necessarily mean things are wearing out fast. Good luck |
Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
Ithink im gonna call the local tool rental places and see if any of them stock tranny jacks. Frankly, I just want this done lol, and if it means i need to spend some cash to rent one or buy one from harborfright, i think im gonna do it.
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Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
easiest way, is to drop the motor, then put the tranny on while its on the ground. Then jack the motor or lift it back in place. You will save so much time and energy that way. It sounds like more work, but it really isnt. BTW: you should have used all of the same bolts on that pp. if it is out of balance it could tear up your mains.
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Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
Originally Posted by B16CRXT
easiest way, is to drop the motor, then put the tranny on while its on the ground. Then jack the motor or lift it back in place. You will save so much time and energy that way. It sounds like more work, but it really isnt. BTW: you should have used all of the same bolts on that pp. if it is out of balance it could tear up your mains.
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
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Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
its very easy to put the tranny back in, noticed in my ls/vtec thread how the motor is put back together in 3 peices?
what I did: I place a jack under the engine, remove all the motor mounts except for upper mount on the drivers side, lower the motor supported by the jack so when you tried to put the tranny in it will clear the passenger side frame, slide the tranny under the car, then go from the driver side hang over the fender and lift the tranny up and put it in, easiest way to install a tranny, its even easier than using a tranny jack. thats how I do all my tanny installs because I work alone. |
Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
If you need help hit me up. Fooks right on how to get it in. You just have to hulk that bitch in and get it lined up all at the same time. It can be a pain in the ass, but thats the best way.
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
Originally Posted by rudebwoy
I always ---- the ---- out of them with a pickle fork ;D no wonder why I change my ball joint twice a year
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Re: Clutch/Balljoint Question
Originally Posted by rawr
Ive always just pushed the LCA down on my celica. and pulled the ball joint right out of it. :y Takes some grunt though.
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Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
------- Ametuers. You guys make ---- way harder than it has to be, so that's why I;m here. ;)
First and foremost, always take out the axles. This does two things. One, it lets you lightly grease the splines that go into the hub which makes getting them out later, easier. And two, having no axles in the way makes it ten times easier to get the tranny back in. I always put the tranny on by myself, from the top. If you have the axles dangling around and poking the tranny from the driver's side, it just makes it a bitch. Second, to get the axles out on honda's, the easiest way is to remove the upper control arms. On EKs you will have to remove the battery ::), but not the shocks. On DC's and EG's, you will have to remove the shocks, but not the battery. ---- TAKING OUT THE LOWER BALL JOINT. If you remove the upper control arms from the chassis, then you can pull the knuckles back far enough to remove the axles. Pop the axle out from the knuckle first, then pry it from the tranny. Now you have all the bullshit out of the way and everything else is pie from there. :6 |
Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
Im about to go up to the local honda stealership and order those pp bolts. They say they should get here tommorrow. I was also thinking, would 6 of the same non oem bolts work?>
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Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
I just went and paid for 6 new pp bolts. They are at the local warehouse so they shouild be at the local dealership tomorrow. Local tool rental place has a tranny jack for 15$. Im gonna rent it tomorrow. $15 seems so worth it.
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Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
Originally Posted by MADMAX
------- Ametuers. You guys make ---- way harder than it has to be, so that's why I;m here. ;)
First and foremost, always take out the axles. This does two things. One, it lets you lightly grease the splines that go into the hub which makes getting them out later, easier. And two, having no axles in the way makes it ten times easier to get the tranny back in. I always put the tranny on by myself, from the top. If you have the axles dangling around and poking the tranny from the driver's side, it just makes it a bitch. Second, to get the axles out on honda's, the easiest way is to remove the upper control arms. On EKs you will have to remove the battery ::), but not the shocks. On DC's and EG's, you will have to remove the shocks, but not the battery. ---- TAKING OUT THE LOWER BALL JOINT. If you remove the upper control arms from the chassis, then you can pull the knuckles back far enough to remove the axles. Pop the axle out from the knuckle first, then pry it from the tranny. Now you have all the bullshit out of the way and everything else is pie from there. :6 only an idiot would try to remove a tranny with axles still installed, makes life harder, especially on b series with the intermediate shaft still attached. do it the way I posted and you will be fine, it just take a little muscle. |
Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
Originally Posted by rudebwoy
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Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
tranny jacks might not help. since hte transmission never sits right on the jack. they're great for rwd cars though.
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Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
i cant get the tranny to sit even close to right on my standard jack. if i cant get the tranny jack tomorrow, ill definately get back to u rawr. This clutch install is such a pain in the ass
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Re: EDIT: EDIT: How to get transmission back in (see bottom)
Actually you dont have to take off the upper control arm to get the axle out. You take off the strut fork that connects to teh lca. Beleive me, I've dropped my motor 3 times in teh last six months.
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