dastinker8

what the hell.. Notch? are you sure.... why would they sell the rods and not say anything about having to do that? How hard is it, and do you have a picture of a notched sleeve?
Also i didnt really wanna do anything with the crank? is there anything neccessary that i have to do with it like bearings or anything? Also what else will i need in doing the rods and pistons... like rings or bolts or what ?

Dr.Boost

Haha, yeah you have to notch the block. There is a good link around here somwhere on that. A couple people here have done it. It's not that hard and isn't that big of a deal.

Also, it would be a good idea to replace the main bearings while you are in there. It's not an absolute must, but it is a good idea.
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MikeJ-2009

Theoldone.com has an article under "d series engine tips" or something like that for notching the block. I'm doing pretty much that same setup and I'm doing rod and main bearings, chamfered and micropolished crank (for better oiling), posted block,lightened flywheel, and pocket cleanup on the head. Unless your gonna rev the motor higher than stock, leave the head alone. The air is forced into the head, not drawn by smooth ports. Unless you can do the machining yourself, I say don't worry about it.

dastinker8

ok... so say i do the bottom end and dont do the top... should i still replace the headgasket and if so which one should i get(brand)? Also with all this heat in the head from 15 psi wont that make the valves float cause there too heavy

Honda16hb

when you take off the head to pull the pistons out you should probably replace the head gasket. valves don't float because they are heavy, the float becaues of timing belt ---- ups. you are going to need a piston ring grinder to cut them to the right size and a ring compressor to make sure they're in there good. I think the august honda tuning magazine was the one where they built a d-series engine.

MikeJ-2009

Honda Headgasket.

yesd0g

just get a honda headset, that will give you all the seals for the head including new vcg and grommets, cam seals, valve stem seals, and such. good insurance against leaks.


valves don't float because they are heavy, the float becaues of timing belt ---- ups.

kyle thats not correct. valve float is when your running hgher rpm. the weight of the valve overcomes the springs ability to close the valve. the cam is spinning so fast the follower is skipping across the tips of the lobes. Stronger or dual vlave springs can increase the rpm range of your engine. also using titainium retainers lightens the valvetrain helping increasr rpm range. but with heavier springs your going to wear the valve seats, and valves faster.

ZexRex

Dude when building your engine replace every gasket and have every questionable surface honed. You dont wanna tear the whole damn thing apart just to replace a $20 gasket later.

I have learned this the hard way many times.

I also like to get in and port match anything I can with an air grinder while I'm in there.

Titanium retainers help by reducing the weight the spring has to carry (they are about half the weight of stock). Also, the stock retainers have been known to crack when they are stressed by the increased lift and the higher RPM's. Once you crack a retainer it often takes the head and sometimes the block with it.