Originally Posted by slo_crx1

I bounce the Iridium plugs to 8600 on my b16 with no breakup...is there something about them I should no about? Maybe the MSD6aln and Blaster SS coil have something to do with it, I didn't feel like taking them off from my last boost build. :P

Originally Posted by slo_crx1

I bounce the Iridium plugs to 8600 on my b16 with no breakup...is there something about them I should no about?

Originally Posted by c0mpl3x

msd is good to what, 10k rpm's on a v8 and 15k on a 4cyl?

Originally Posted by Joseph Davis

Aside from the facts they are a less-than-performance plug marketed as a performance plug, cast a weaker spark than steel or copper electrode, and are prone to hotspotting those tiny pinprick aka sharp edge tips? Well, if you contact John @ LHT Performance in Tampa he'll tell you all about how the iridium tips are poorly fused to the copper center electrode and have been known to fall off. One toasted an 84mm built motor of his, and he kept track of a handful of other engines that had died from the exact same cause. That's a pretty significant failure rate since most people who know anything about plugs, meaning the people who make big power, run NGK race plugs or Autolites.

Which means stock Honduh ignition is good to at least 17K, which makes it a real shame distributor pickups invert signals past 12K.

Originally Posted by Joseph Davis

I didn't know you could get power past 8500 on a D16. A Y8 needs a bit of headwork to make power past 8K, even with Crower Stage 3 cam and pimp *** $$$$ Bisimoto/SMSP header.

Regardless, at 7800 does the car break up or does it "bounce" like a normal revlimit? If it breaks up, ditch the Iridium plugs and run regular electrode NGKs (stock GSR plugs, or BRK7E-11/NGK Stock # 1283 if you need colder) gapped to 0.030". If it bounces like a revlimit, ditch the Iridium plugs and run regular electrode NGKs (stock GSR plugs, or BRK7E-11/NGK Stock # 1283 if you need colder) gapped to 0.030", check the coolant temp sensor to make sure it is functional/submerged in coolant aka coolant is full/coolant is getting hot enough aka block off part of the airflow across the radiator with cardboard if coolant temps are low, and lastly ditch the eBay chip and get something from somebody you can trust to burn you something that works (Cray91, xenocron, most any OG HMTer or pgmfi.org guy, avoid mtber aka phearable.net that dude is a tard).

Hey, did that Skank2 IM require much porting to get a 70mm TB to fit nicely?

edit: Oh, yeah, before I forget make sure to ditch the Iridium plugs and run regular electrode NGKs (stock GSR plugs, or BRK7E-11/NGK Stock # 1283 if you need colder) gapped to 0.030". Thanks.

Originally Posted by Mista Bone

8500 rpm on a stock Z6.......

valve float = poormans VTEC