MikeJ-2009

Been waiting to check out this write up. Looks good. Now I'm gonna sit back and see how far you go with the boost to ---- this one up ha ha

XDEep

this is enough to prevent the b20 joints from cracking? how many lbs would they begin to crack at and how did you come up with 12lbs as a safe point?

HMT-Admin

Thats a good question, only one way to find out right

XDEep

its men like you that make my leeching a whole lot easier :P

zac

Jeff, great write-up as always...had a quick (stupid)question though...do the posts penetrate the cylinder, or just butt up against the outside of it? If the latter, why would it be suggested that you hone the cylinder afterwards?

Sorry for the dumb question...thanks, -Z

HMT-Admin

The studs just barely touch the outside of the cylinder wall, as said only 2 inch pounds, so you can imagne how much they are really touching. T.O.O, and my local machinest said that a rebore job should be done after doing this, Just incase the walls get distorted somehow. I really dont give a ----, It should work just fine, if it breaks it breaks, if it doesnt then well... I'll be happy

I was a little bumed when I found out the b20b is going to lower the c/r down to low 9's

Jeff

HMT-Admin

Uhm, I thought the b20b and b20z pistons were the same, I didnt know they had a -5.88cc difference..

I had the head milled down a bit more, so its going to be mid 9's

brekekex

I wonder how this compares to cementing the water jackets. Seems that the cost would be very near the same, and the cementing would be less labour intensive.
Regardless, either method will strenghten the cylinder walls.

-T

HMT-Admin

Except for the fact if you fill the water jacket with cement you will experience heating problems, and an even greater chance of detonation. Even people with block guards have problems with cooling. Not worth it IMO.. Maybe for a race car, but not a daily driver.

Jeff