Block filling and Block Posting
Anyone consider both block filling and block posting? filled a d16 tonight and noticed that the block filling actually only fills about the top 1" of the block and leaves the center part of the cylinder unstabilized... Figure maybe block posting would help... any thoughts?
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
cyl flex occurs at the top of the cyl.
fill the block and call it a day, no need to reinvent the wheel here. |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
T.O.O./Larry W./Endyn claims that the highest load is like an inch or 2 down from the top of the sleeve :y
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
i guess you could if you wanted..
or you could just fill deeper..my fill is about 2 inches..of course you need to do some serious grinding to clean up the water inlet |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
I was going to do both. I just haven't pulled the motor apart to see if it's feasable.
Sur loading is greatest at the top, or 2" down. But the more support the merryer!!!! Plus posting only cost $2.00 or so and about 30min of time. |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
http://img438.imageshack.us/img438/1571/dsc001662ny.jpg
you can't tell from here..but my fill is deep and i drilled all the coolant holes (sorry about the size) |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
No re-inventing the wheel here. Yes the cylinders will flex the most up top. but the highest stress on the cylinder is around the mid point of the cylinder. I dont see why it would be a disadvantage. I may do this on my LS/VTEC when Im building it up.
Also, when filling the block, the block gets only filled about 1" from the deck. If you went 2" from the deck, I would think that there maybe more of an overheating issue, since the water pump hole is smaller and also the passages for the coolant holes would be much longer, both decreasing how much coolant is flowing through the block which may lead to overheating. |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
I have to agree with you on the over heating issues when filling DEEP B16Drag, that's a possability. But the most important part to brace in any engine is at the point where the piston is pushed the hardest into the cylinder wall. Which is roughly 1/2 way down the cylinder(and then up to the top) so as long as your post's don't get in the way of some of your well needed coolant passages, and you are careful. I'd say give it a try and let us know how it goes. Personally I'd try to get the fill 2inch's down since you can drill out the coolant hole, and you can't the posts. Which if I'm correct, will be placed directly in the path of 8 of the coolant holes...?
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
the block studs wouldn't affect your coolant holes... and i measured my pour it's just over 2 1/8.. i used masonry bits to radius the water pump outlet .. i plan to supplement the loss of cooling with a quality radiator and water injection plus.. the fill still allows a decent flow of coolant to the head which in my opinion becomes most important in determining overheating issues
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
alright so when i decide to fill my spare block... anyone got any extra devcon??
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
you can get it from grainger.com for 40 dollars, youll need about exactly 1 lb for a b series block.
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
grainger only ships to businesses
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
well i got my devcon from a business account we have through work
if i can get enough people to want some, i can make an order and ship it to all of you. would have to talk to dave csaddict first about it though. |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
Originally Posted by bumblezc
Plus posting only cost $2.00 or so and about 30min of time.
sets are $36 plus about 9 bucks shipping from larry. |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
I dunno but I'd like to know.
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
Post don't have to be a kit. A simple bolt could do it.
A plated fastener is suggested as the material properties of steel and aluminum like to react and corrode each other. If you have a tap, a drill and the proper bit, the proper posts (or hex headed studs) can be bought for 5.00 per 50 peices! |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
Originally Posted by hotrex
youll need about exactly 1 lb
hotrex logic at its finest. |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
Originally Posted by bumblezc
Post don't have to be a kit. A simple bolt could do it.
A plated fastener is suggested as the material properties of steel and aluminum like to react and corrode each other. If you have a tap, a drill and the proper bit, the proper posts (or hex headed studs) can be bought for 5.00 per 50 peices! |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
Originally Posted by bumblezc
A plated fastener is suggested as the material properties of steel and aluminum like to react and corrode each other.
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
id go with the studs from endyn...since i have no idea how a home depot bolt is going to react with heat
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
you want something that expands and contracts the same as the block..i'd be worried with some home chepot bolts...
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
thats my point exactly. So i want to know where to buy these bolts besides from endyn?
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
I will try to research later. Yes you want a mterial with the same thermodynamic properies. I will have to did out my Materials Engineering text today.
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
I just pinned a ZC block in my daily driver. I called and called endyn, left messages but he wouldnt return my calls. So I said ---- it and just went to the hardware store and bought some aluminum rod and made my own posts. I'm pretty certain its not the exact same alloy as a honda block but I figure I'd try it. It cost me about 5 dollars to make, and about a hour to do. I also skimmped on the intake side (supposivly you want 8 on the intake) and just did 4 posts on each side.
Its been holding up well so far, but not like its that impressive. It's probably around 275whp @ 20ish psi. [img width=640 height=480]https://www.homemadeturbo.com/2005/builtzc2/newstuff%20006.jpg[/img] On b-series blocks I dont even think I would post or fill the block, there are lots of people making great power with open deck (no support) . D-series is a bit different since ive seen alot of headgaskets blow due to slight sleeve movement. |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
jeff why didnt you fill instad of post.....
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
Originally Posted by hotrex
jeff why didnt you fill instad of post.....
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
yeah my devcon took about 24 hrs. but im in no hurry. still waiting on those psiton rings....
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
moroso is 28 days jeff!! lol
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
lol, ok I knew it was something crazy like that. I remember reading the directions and going wtf?
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
moroso isnt even for aluminum blocks, so dismiss that all together....
you need devcon liquid aluminum f-2 |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
Originally Posted by hotrex
moroso isnt even for aluminum blocks, so dismiss that all together....
you need devcon liquid aluminum f-2 |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
well its TECHNICALLY not right.... :8
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
i've posted my zc and installed a race engineering block guard o-ringed the block and am gonna cross my fingers...........300 hp here i come >:D
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
Originally Posted by absolutezroo
i guess you could if you wanted..
or you could just fill deeper..my fill is about 2 inches..of course you need to do some serious grinding to clean up the water inlet Worst of the cylinger flex being at the very top of the bore doesn't mean that's the best place to pour. If you go an inch or so deeper, and get to where the sleeve likes to swell, you *also* reinforce the upper end of the sleeve pretty damn well. The head acts as a brace as well when torqued on - this is what holds the cylinder in place (aside from the webbing at the bottom of the block and the sleeves themselves) in a normal application. And you don't have to clean up the water inlet all that much. Most of the bottom port is still intact, and will flow up to the top through the other cooling holes. Although, the water pump area isn't a critical stress area so I don't think grinding it mostly away (like some people do) is going to mean anything bad. |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
i like the way you think joseph^^^
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
If you are a redhead with succulent breasts, we can ----.
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
If you are a redhead with succulent breasts, we can ----.
A man can have breast :-X |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
LMAO.. who know's with the kinda ---- that goes on these days..especially on the interweb..------- freaks
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Re: Block filling and Block Posting
Originally Posted by Ravage70
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
If you are a redhead with succulent breasts, we can ----.
A man can have breast :-X |
Re: Block filling and Block Posting
The sex change vagina is alot like one of those fake tv's that are placed in entertainment centers at the deparment store. It takes the place of whats missing, but doesn't look quite right or act the same.
Joseph, when you post stuff like this, it makes me wonder if you've ever been in prison. |
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