nascarfan

because if you start out with an ls block why would you by a gsr block.....integras are not all gsr's you know
+ ls blocks are dirt cheap and the 100 dollar(at the very high end of the spectrum) conversion kit's price doesnt even come in to play with the overall rape you in the *** price for a gsr block

B18SI

dude i got my gsr for 75 bucks and know where 3 others are for 250 or less.

Tom-Guy

LS is much much more fluent than GSR.

Not too many years past I would give away rebuildable LS shortblocks. Now I can sell them $150/per all day long as they are still cheaper than GSR cores.

There really isn't anything to go wrong with an LS/VTEC. The only problems I see are n00b mistakes, and I assure you that those sort of people would find something retarded to ---- up and destroy their engines if the complexity of aligning a head, running external oil line, and running the correct piston were removed from their menu.

nascarfan

ex. my b20vtec i bought from a stand up guy from jerzey
jb weld instead of using a plug for the head
no dowel pins

so yea you can make it a piece of ---- if your a complete nog

B18SI

I understand what everyone is saying but I dont understand people who have GSR blocks are told to get rid of them and just build a LS/Vtec. Not heard it from anyone here, just around and about. I got my block for 75 dollars for oil pan up, just had a crank that is crap. I could grind it and balance it and just run oversized bearings and be fine but its still dont see how anyone would want me to sell the block and buy a ls. That is what I down understand. But thanks for everyones input. What does everyone think about a b16a2 head on a b18c1 bottom end. If I run the gsr crank, rods, and b16a pistons would that function properly with a b16a2 valvetrain with b16b cams?

Tom-Guy

My best advice to you is to ignore anyone who tells you to ditch a perfectly good GSR to go throught the hassle of sourcing a bunch of LS parts so you can build the exact same thing you'd get by sticking with the GSR bottom end.

If I were you I'd look a hot minute for a GSR crank at a fair price, then see if you can get LS crank/rods for a price that makes ------- around the 30 minutes it takes to block off your oil squirters worth doing, and then I'd have the existing crank ground down (no balance needed, they are good to 10K from the factory) and run undersize King Alecular bearings.

If you are tossing forgings in it's all the same stuff, if you are going NA then it's all good for 8500 (and there is nothing wrong with stock rod bolts despite what ricers who've never built an engine claim, Honda rods break across the beam at 300+ whp or at extreme rpm), BUT if you are trying to boost on a stock rod I would insist on keeping the GSR unit as it is beefier. LS are good to '300' and GSR to '350' but the LS package folds the rod past that point where the GSR folds a ringland on a stock cast piston that's running too tight clearances for that power level.

FYI, if you have a GSR head there is NO improvement from running a B16 head. B16B cams = being taken on a JDM pricing ride when that's the same stuff as 00-01 USDM Type-R cams... and if you are boosting there's nothing wrong with GSR cams in the 600 whp range.

You seem to be what you claim to be - a bright, experienced guy who's background isn't Hondas. I'm the same thing only my background is Hondas. Spell out what you want and I can tell you what you need... the internet is full of crap information.

B18SI

Ok I have a complete B16a2 motor but only the block of a B18c1. I am building a boosted motor shooting for a fast streetable honda. I say in a FWD I will be pushing my street limits with 450hp. So I would like to get 400 out of this build. I debated on running a t3/t04 .57 trim .63a/r garrett to get this. I am new to turbo setups also. I build NA motors where the stroke and bore is a big part. So since B series are interchangable and the air flow is good on the b16a head i have I am just using that. Then getting my OEM TB bored out a little, and maybe the IM. Every little bit of less air restriction helps. So basically if I stick with a GSR Crank then this is what I have came up with.

B16a2 Head
Skunk2 Lightweight Valvetrain w/Titanium Retainers
GSR Cams and Gears
OEM Timing Belt
Bored Stock TB
Port and Polish IM
Port and Polish Head
3 Angle Valve Job
B18c1 block
GSR Crank
Eagle H Beam Rods
JE 8.0:1 CR Pistons which may give me an actual 8.3:1 with the b16a2 head
Arp Head Studs
Arp Main Studs
stock fuel rail
precision 880cc injectors maybe push to 1000cc
garrett t3/t04e .57 trim .63a/r turbo
greddy 23x3x11 FMIC
hks bov
greddy boost controller & turbo timer
autometer gauges (oil press, boost/vac, a/f ratio wideband, water temp)
hondata s300
p28 ecu
walbro 255lph HP fuel pump
afi ramhorn mani
tial 38mm wastgate prolly 1bar
custom IC piping
custom dumptube
custom downpipe
ngk plugs & wires
stock dizzy
itr oil pump or gsr oil pump (the one on the block is shot)
and i believe that is everything lol

B18SI

yea well i am use to stroker motors and superchargers. i am sick of it and want a change and i have had this civic for years just never modded it cause it was a gas saver but my buddies twin turbo 300z turned me and honda's are growing on me lol

Tom-Guy

That's 95% quality parts, I'd rock most of that on my own car.

8:1 CR is pretty low CR, if you go more aggressive on the cam you aren't going to see much of a gain unless you spin the **** out of that engine. Stay GSR cams, IMO.

You will max out your turbo before you max out those injectors. Stay 880cc. Safe is 375-400 on pump, the compressor will max out ~450whp.

All the OBD2 oil pumps are identical (LS is cheapest) the difference is the spring and shim length. Buy a new LS pump and stick the B16 spring/shim with a washer or two in there and you've got a bona-fide race oil pump.

The only thing I don't like is your IM. The stocker, even ported, is a pile of ---- if you want more than 300 whp. It flows at that level, sure, but the flow tends to get really unbalanced between cylinders. Get one of the AEBS Whirlwind IMs for $150-160. Best cheap intake ever, I like them.

B18SI

so buy an obd2 oil pump, push the cr up to say 9.0:1 with the head run 9.3:1? aebs IM, and stay with 880cc injectors? the turbo good enough though would that have alot of lag?