The ECU needs to see some feedback from the KS to work.

You can get piezoelectric pickups from RadioSlack for $1.99/per... strapped the the fuel rail will produce ~.75 volts. You may find you need two in the rail, as normal baseline for Honduh KS seems to be spikes as high as 1.5 volts. Positive connection to KS, negative to ground (engine or sensor ground irrelevant).

I prefer chipping the ECU, personally.

 

Hah...i'm a dumbass...fixed it this morning. The wire I ran to the ks got caught on the rear trans mount and it must of ripped it in half. Zip ties ftw this time

 

awesome, hows she running now

 

Like a mudbutt slow stock b16a It's still pretty fun to drive, but after going from a boosted LS to this, there's no comparison. Honestly, I think a decently done up n/a z6 would walk all over it. I'm still debating whether I want to throw on my new turbo and manifold, just for reliability factors. Plus I think the hairdryer's a little too large for what I want...no more than 6 psi on this motor just to be safe...but there again, reliability and drivability

 

i have always said the B16s are overated stock, but alot better starting point than a D just because of head flow capability. good luck.

 

Everyone knows a stock b16 is far from impressive. A well set up all motor d will walk a stock b16a. Done it with alot of my sohc builds


Now a b16a on 10 psi thats another story

 

A"built" b16a on 10psi I don't think I'd trust this b16a stock on my mongo t3/to4e .70 at 10 psi

 

Get a thicker headgasket and get the compression down to 9.1. Makes the tuning alot more friendly

 

Run richer than HT tells you to, drop 3-4 degrees off the timing you find MBT at, and be a man.

 

h-t style of all motor tuning 14.1 at wot ya thats where its at