Dr.Boost

Kill them!!!
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RotaryGeek

haha no.

CspecRun

When you buy the paint, it should have instructions on it as far as flash times and required activators and such...Make sure you read these instructions EXTREMELY well(make sure you buy paint that has adequate instructions on the can, I know Dupont does)...If you are gonna be painting in a small area I would make sure to get as much free space as possible around the car to work in, you don't wanna accidently brush up against the car or have one of the air or paint lines from your gun do so either...You'd also be better off using at least two guns...Most people I know don't like to use primer and gloss in the same gun...I work in the paint department for a large farm equipment production company...We have 2 PROFESSIONAL grade paint booths and it still takes ALOT of work to produce a QUALITY paint job...U say you have painted b4 so I'm sure you know the basics, but the most important thing to remember in my opinion, is that you can always add paint if you go too light on a spot, but it's a mess when you spray to thick and have runs and such to clean up, ESPECIALLY when using the acrylic type paint you are gonna be using...

RotaryGeek

Is there any problems with acrylic enamel? I have used single stage tractor paint on 3 different cars before, and i did screw up and get a couple runs. After sanding them, when i went over again, the run came back exactly as before. The only real problem i have with using my garage is it is so small and i can't figure out somehow to ventilate. The problem is being so close to the wall and having to bend down to get to the lower half of the car. I would much rather paint multiple coats on thin, then go back and paint some more, than have to sand more ------- runs. I just want a nice paintjob that i can tell people i did on my own. I take some pride in my work, so i would really like to have this come out nice. Im just trying to get all the little details in order before i start on this. Im going to order a secong hvlp gun right now, (EBAY spesul.....)
http://cgi.ebay.com/DeVILBISS-Topcoa...QQcmdZViewItem
Hows that one look?

CspecRun

eeeehhh, I don't know man, that stuff looks pretty good but $110 for 2 quality guns seems kinda cheap, but hey, it could be a good deal...I can't tell for sure but it looked like the cup on both of those guns mounted on the top...We have both top and bottom mount cup guns @ work and the top mount guns are all somewhere collecting dust, the bottom mount spray guns are ALOT easier to get a decent spray pattern with to me...we have GRACO stuff at work which is top dollar, I imagine paint guns are like anything else, how well they work has alot to do with what the internal parts of the gun are made of and such...what do you plan on using for thinner?? we use butyl acetate to thin the paint and lacquer thinner to clean equipment with...we use tractor grade Valspar paint on MOST stuff, but on some things we use Dupont acrylic enamel...You're gonna need plenty of room to paint, but I will give you a suggestion on the low spots you are talking about having to bend over and paint....try a creeper. Anytime we have to paint the bottom of something or a real low spot that it's hard to get an angle on we just lay down on a creeper and roll around underneath the machinery or what not...It sounds like it would be a lil awkward, but it's really not once you get used to it...Oh yeah, and most of the time when we have bad runs we just scrape them off with a razor blade and touch the spot(if it isn't tooo big) up with a cup gun, but we're painting farm equipment NOT cars

RotaryGeek

i wipe off the car about 30 minutes before i paint it with laquer thinner or mineral spirits. The dolly idea is pretty good, if i have enough room ill try that.

jarebear667

dont use laquer it leaves a residue.. use wax and grease remover. um dont sand the base.. unless you have a run and then recoat. 2-3 coats of base or until coverage. and 2-3 coats med. wet for your clear. what product are you using? and with the flash times it will tell you they will be different with different hardeners and activators also. tack off and are you goin over old paint or bare metal? tack between base coats. and make sure your runs are in the clear haha little easier to sand out haha :P only thin about paintin parts off the car is the orange peal and your metalics layin out different. but thats not real noticable beczu or the curves in your bumpers and get low make sure you have even coverage as well.

RotaryGeek

Im going to be scuffing it up (the old paint) pretty good, but not much more. Wax and grease remover it is then

blackice90hb

AS far as time between coats, 10-15 minutes is plenty of times. just keep going till you are cool with it or run out of paint. IO recommend wetsanding before clearing, just to make sure the base coat is all smooth and ----, shines up any dull spots from unintentional overspray. just looks better when finished. I have always used like 2000 and a bucket of soapy water. Takes some effort but to me its worth it. When the strokes though, make sure your hand is perpendicular to the direction you are sanding. if you dont you'll put finger lines in it from uneven pressure on the sand paper.

Slo_crx1

That's why you use a block when sanding flat surfaces. As far as the gravity feed or siphon feed gun debate, I prefer the gravity feed as do most paint shops. I've never had any issues with my guns (they're both made by Binks) and usually have less overspray than siphon feeds. Siphon feed guns work well for large equipment and covering large areas, but they're not really a hvlp type of gun. Just stick with the gravity feed and don't forget to uncap the top vent on the paint hopper, otherwise it'll start creating a vaccum inside and will make a mess when you figure it out.