TinyTubs

Im building my own traction bars this week but Im lost on one thing. The bars are going on an EF with 300ish WHP

I dont understand the difference or cause or effects or upsides of running 4 HEIM joints on my radius rods.

Im trying to save pennies everywhere but dont mind spending the coin if I will notice a differece.

Its either run 4 heim joints, or 2 at the front and a solid mount at the lower control arm with a 2 bolt bracke threer like the stock radious rods connect.

I noticed BEAU ran a solid mount on his race car

Thanks

stillnoturbo

Is this a street car/daily driver or a full fledged street car? Beau's car doesn't need to turn that much besides to turn around after driving 1/4 mile. If it's a street car I'd go with heims at each end.

samson

I'm going to thread jack because my question is related.


When you tighten your trailing arms (whomever) do you tighten then to draw in or push out and HOW tight? I think mine right now are pushed out, but I'm not sure which way is right or acutally HOW tight they should be, haha.


JP

Tom-Guy

Stock uses solid mounts, and stock cars turn around between each 1/4 mile run.

Jimfab, and several others, use solid mounts and work well.

Beau's car has suspension issues keeping him from running a whole second faster; you need a more indepth examination of his car to pick out what is done right and what is done wrong, inclusive of video, and a real life teardown and inspection to see what is getting wear transferred to it and how.

0b00st0

To use them for most effect draw the control arms forward. You pull the control arms in because pushing them back would give you less caster which will create a handling concern. That caster is what keeps the wheels straight when you drive forward.

HOWEVER, you must adjust the tie rods because pulling the control arms in will give you major toe out. This will make your vehicle vibrate really bad since both wheels will be turned outward a little bit. So adjust the tie rods to give you stock toe.

Now you have a good amount of preload on the bushings and a good safe alignment. How much preload you want on the bushings is up to you. More will decrease bsuhing life, but will keep the wheel from moving back and forth so much. I turn the rod about two turns or so on each side for a good amount of preload.

W O T

On a street car, would a solid mount be fine with a 2 bolt connection at the LCA? Adjustability would still be there as the insert would be threaded. Im personally curious if ride quality would change, and some absurd noises would arise from the solid mount. ive never run in, seen or driven anything other than stock

Tom-Guy

If stock rubber doesn't creak heims won't.

The LCA is held immobilised with 2 or 4 heim setups, but the 4 heim setup has 4 heims that undergo just as much force apiece as two heim setups do, only difference is they have 4 heims to go bad and replace.

Can you see my preferrence?

juli0_bustamante

good stuff..

when you say towards to car do you mean towareds the bumper? or towards the back of your fender?

another concern i have is that the 3 bolts holes for the tow hooks on my 4 door are all stripped. can i design one that just uses the original points on the crossmember and not use the ones on the tow hooks? i assume the points on the tow hooks plus the ones on the cross member make it that much more surdy but will it be fine if i desing one without those? what other options if any do i have?

W O T

Sounds like a 2 heim setup is what Im going to be going for.

5/8" is plenty right?

0b00st0

Yes pull them towards the bumper.


I am not really familiar with the EF chassis. Are the tow hooks mounted like the EG/DC/EKs?