Tires to run on the street
#31
Re: Tires to run on the street
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Azenis have a stiffer sidewall than a DR, and are less forgiving of bad alignments. From 15 to 20 roll they are better than BFGs. ZERO SUSPENSION SLOP and ALIGNMENT WITH CAMBER ADJUSTMENT will get you halfway there. Next you play with springrates which cause changes in idealcamber settings as the nose stops coming up as high. Racecars run 900 plus rear springs, but streetcars you play with until you find something you can live with cuz stiff rears are unpleasant and squirrelly. Look to m&h DOT slicks, and save the trackbite for moneyraces or dead tires because two days later tires are hard as Big Wheels.
Camber adjustment I would need to do with the car raised to the point where it would sit during a launch, yes?
#32
Re: Tires to run on the street
Not sure I follow you? 300 whp in 1800 lbs is enough to make rear end bob up and down with 450 lb springs and slicks. 450 lb rears in an 1800 lb streetcar is pretty harsh on the street, but at the track it results in too much dynamic cambering to maintain ideal contact patch. Also, good idea to limit front susp travel so nose cant lift too high. Oh, yeah, ---- vtech.
#33
Re: Tires to run on the street
Azenis are crap. I have run both and the new RT-615 has a nicer compound (more consistent), but they don't grab as nice as the older ones. I now run Nitto 555 DR's. 10x better than Azenis, but they have a 2:1 price compared to the Azenis.
I'm going to try some 235/60 15 BFG DR's in the future. Kinda 4x4, but they have a nice contact patch.
#34
Re: Tires to run on the street
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Not sure I follow you? 300 whp in 1800 lbs is enough to make rear end bob up and down with 450 lb springs and slicks. 450 lb rears in an 1800 lb streetcar is pretty harsh on the street, but at the track it results in too much dynamic cambering to maintain ideal contact patch. Also, good idea to limit front susp travel so nose cant lift too high. Oh, yeah, ---- vtech.
#35
Re: Tires to run on the street
As ride height, suspension travel, and tire OD change so does the entire alignment. It goes beyond just camber. Toe can ---- traction just as hard, but most people realise its happening since the toe is "okay" at cruise and during parking lot maneuvering, and with how loud the average rice-a-roni turbo car is you don't hear the tires "scrabbling" even after you get traction in the higher gears. By the time you learn to drive the car, tire wear patterns have already ruined the tire and most don't realise they have a problem.
#37
Re: Tires to run on the street
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Not sure I follow you? 300 whp in 1800 lbs is enough to make rear end bob up and down with 450 lb springs and slicks. 450 lb rears in an 1800 lb streetcar is pretty harsh on the street, but at the track it results in too much dynamic cambering to maintain ideal contact patch. Also, good idea to limit front susp travel so nose cant lift too high. Oh, yeah, ---- vtech.
Originally Posted by rawr
I think he's talking about lifting the front end so his camber will be at, or neer where it is at the track. So he's at or neer 0 camber when the front end lifts, and is sitting with alitte more than normal negitive camber regularly. To correct this 'dynamic cambering' issue.
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
As ride height, suspension travel, and tire OD change so does the entire alignment. It goes beyond just camber. Toe can ---- traction just as hard, but most people realise its happening since the toe is "okay" at cruise and during parking lot maneuvering, and with how loud the average rice-a-roni turbo car is you don't hear the tires "scrabbling" even after you get traction in the higher gears. By the time you learn to drive the car, tire wear patterns have already ruined the tire and most don't realise they have a problem.
Originally Posted by Dibble
I buy wal-mart tires and let them sit in VHT for a few hours. They last about 2 months.
#38
Re: Tires to run on the street
Originally Posted by Bizzar
Azenis are absolute garbage! You hear they are great from people in the sub 200hp range. I had them, hated them and were ---- in the rain almost dangerous infact. I could roast them off through 2nd and squak them hard in 3rd. I just got rid of them for a set of BFG G-force KDW's and these tires do infact GRIP! At 300whp they can barely break them loose at the top of second (full spool) and nothing in 3rd. Great tires well worth the pricetag. They kick *** in the rain too.
x2
Love mine, just got em 1000 miles ago, but they grip, well....... Latterally as well.
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