Smith-02

buk you dumbfuck you just cant 'touch' the sparkplug to things to get spark, you need a working ignitor and an engine that cranks over.

buk9tp

complex.. i know yuriys told you alot of things about me.. but im not that stupid

my sister was cranking the car over..

tomorrow im checking the ignitor.. just making sure there wasnt anything obvious that i missed

USS

Do you have a helms manual?

Smith-02

ignitor most definitely... no other reason for spark to ---- the bed

buk9tp

just swapped the dizzy with one i know works because it was off the old engine that ran perfect... no spark

the plugs have carbon on em and i cleaned em up a bit.. but is there ANY way that all four plugs can foul in just under 1 hour of running??


no.. i got a shop manual i got off hmt.. ill take a look at it in a bit...

Tom-Guy

Stick to carburetted trucks.

We need pics.


If there's a problem with the tune, or the sensors causing the tune to go super rich, then plugs can foul out real quick. Sometimes you can clean them, sometimes they are dead and need throwing away.

buk, it sounds like you most likely have a ground problem. Remove, clean, tighten the thermostat housing ground. Replace the engine to chassis/battery grounds, or on the cheap tip run some jumper cables as grounds to and from engine/chassis/battery. After that I would expect coil or ignitor failure... and those parts do go bad on the shelf after they are years and years old, especially if that used distributor you tested with has been sitting out in the weather. Lastly - this is a PITA - I've had problems with old dry rotted engine harnesses in those era cars... start by scraping any corrosion on the pins of the engine harness to main harness connectors, you might need to cut the harness open and replace a lot of ---- or find a fresh harness to start over with. I know when i ran around with my hood off for a while it took about a month for my CRX to intermittantly not start. Sucks.

Anyway, props for actually working on your CRX. It takes time to really learn, and you've been putting the effort in. Make yourself a switch between battery power and the blade terminal to the starter so you can crank the engine from the engine bay/without a second person and it'll go a lot faster.

PS - this doesn't mean I want any goddamn PMs from you. Unless they contain pics of your sister, and nothing else.

buk9tp

fixed the problem

the wierd thing is it was already on tight as a mother ****** and took a breaker bar to take it off used a wire brush to clean that contact points tightend it up and it worked fine

thanks

now my fan problem


see the female connector suspended therE? its wire is red with black dots idk...


higher up shot of it


shot from the other side... incase u need to point out something to me...


BOOSH!!!


temp sensor working fine.. i thought i had the 2 wires reversed.. if i do have them revered then the temp guage wouldnt work.. right


now as far as the fan thing goes.. i removed my ac condensor.. and pretty sure that wire was connected to it.. so maybe it completed the circuit?? and i cut the circuit when i removed the condensor? so all i gotta do is splice that wire into something? but into what

89shithatch

you nogfuck, i told you. and if you needed a breaker bar you are one week *** ******. the threads that the 10mm nut goes onto cannot take 150lbs of torque to get off. haha

buk9tp

im not weak im just tired from playing unreal tournament all night.. and in my defense i was using a small *** ratchet :P

ummm i did take your advice and checked all the grounds but i never thought a tight as ---- tstat ground would be bad..

oh well lesson learned.. ---- ---- ton of lessons learned..

like i told someone the other day.. pretty sure if i had to do it again i could swap an engine in under a week

haha

89shithatch

just because its tight doesnt mean its grounded. corrosion and rust will cause excess resistance between your wire and the t stat. that will stop a complete circuit between b+ and ground. causes you to have no spark.