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Re: Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
After grinding all the paint and ---- off, then pounding the floor straight and smooth... then welding to it, I'd think it would make the floorboard even weaker that it is in stock form. That's why everytime I do a cage from now on I'm doing top and Bottom plates bolted together (sandwich style) then welded.
I can just see you rolling that fucker, the main hoop plates would probably go flying right through the floor, lol |
Re: Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
I didn't pound the floor flat, I filled. 8)
At the base of the rear bars the plates are right on top of the rear "frame", so those should be more than good. Even if I were to now bolt plates on the bottom of the main hoop and door bar bases, I'm not sure if that would make it any better because the plates would be sandwiching the floor, but around those plates is where I welded, so if the integrity of the floor was compromised, I'd be fucked anyway. If NHRA says you can weld them to the floor, I'm sure it will be fine. Ol' Jeffy just trying to scare me. :-[ (stop it) :( |
Re: Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
Originally Posted by AbaZ
I can just see you rolling that fucker, the main hoop plates would probably go flying right through the floor, lol
I'm glad that you had at least a few minutes practice welding before you did something that may save your life. |
Re: Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
nice review/writeup man...I'm picking mine from SW next week for my GTI. not sure if my harbor freight welder is up for the task though... :-\ might have to have a pro do it
Originally Posted by Stealthmode
Overall, Every one of the bars needed some type of notching/cutting/fitting to get it where it is now, but that's to be expected. I even had to chop 1/2" off the legs of the main hoop posts because it was too tall. :thumbup: (The main hoop of many kits seems to be the thing that I hate most, as most of them hang 2-3" down from the headliner.)
If you've ever built an awsome popsicle house and you have basic metal tools like a grinder and chop saw, I could recommend this one. www.swracecars.com (8pt. Roll bar kit) www.apexspg.com (Ultra shield seat retailer. Good people) |
Re: Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
so what kind of welder did you use on all that? i know you said it was a mig but how many amps is it? i have been looking for a simple cage like that for my project hatch also. the tools you use are chop saw, grinder and welder? just trying to get everything straight before i even start to think about tackling a cage ;D.
looks great but do you thinik the bar behind the seats will affect my gangsta lean? ;) |
Re: Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
Great job man, you are the coolest person ever. I really love your updates and ----.
I am not excited by the pics cuz you can see how much more ---- I will be over for to help on. |
Re: Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
I used my Lincoln Pro-mig 135, a chop saw, a grinder, and my head.
You should install the bars where you are comfortable with. NHRA.com has a rulebook with specs as to where it needs to be in relatioin to the driver. Build it around your gangster lean if you must. |
Re: Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
looks like it turned out great steve. Excellent job!
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Re: Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
Originally Posted by Stealthmode
I used my Lincoln Pro-mig 135, a chop saw, a grinder, and my head.
You should install the bars where you are comfortable with. NHRA.com has a rulebook with specs as to where it needs to be in relatioin to the driver. Build it around your gangster lean if you must. |
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