Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
06-04-2005, 11:56 PM
#1
0.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
In my search for the ideal roll bar kit, what I wanted was:
-Something I could weld myself. I'm still a "beginner" when it comes to welding, but the satisfaction of doing it yourself is my cup of tea
-Something that fit well. Alot of main hoops I came across in my research didn't seem to fit tightly to the B pillar. I wanted it to at least look like it was made for this car. The main hoop is the biggest part, but it's not bad if the rest of the thing fits well too.
-Something inexpensive, yet still safe. S&W sells these kits for $169, but I just happened to order during the "$30 dollar off week" (Wooo woooooooo)
Here's the pics of how it came out. I still have to spend another day on "cosmetics" without the grinding, but I think for the last three nights of work, I'm happy.
(seat and steering column unmounted)
I was worried about the "parallel-ness" of these rear bars because I didn't want to attach directly on the main hoop bend, or mount the "feet" of these bars close to the edge of the rear plates. I just wanted to hit as center as possible and still be as parallel as possible just in case.
Here's the rear plates. These ones weren't bad, but the ones for the main hoop and door bars require removing the sound deadener (sp?) It wasn't hard to get off, but the stuff underneath the car catches fire as you weld the plates on from the top. The underbody fires reassured me that I was getting good welds on these things.
Here's the other side. Mount your doors with panels back on when fitting these door bars and give yourself 1/2" between the bar and your door panel.
Overall, Every one of the bars needed some type of notching/cutting/fitting to get it where it is now, but that's to be expected. I even had to chop 1/2" off the legs of the main hoop posts because it was too tall. :thumbup: (The main hoop of many kits seems to be the thing that I hate most, as most of them hang 2-3" down from the headliner.)
If you've ever built an awsome popsicle house and you have basic metal tools like a grinder and chop saw, I could recommend this one.
www.swracecars.com (8pt. Roll bar kit)
www.apexspg.com (Ultra shield seat retailer. Good people)
-Something I could weld myself. I'm still a "beginner" when it comes to welding, but the satisfaction of doing it yourself is my cup of tea
-Something that fit well. Alot of main hoops I came across in my research didn't seem to fit tightly to the B pillar. I wanted it to at least look like it was made for this car. The main hoop is the biggest part, but it's not bad if the rest of the thing fits well too.
-Something inexpensive, yet still safe. S&W sells these kits for $169, but I just happened to order during the "$30 dollar off week" (Wooo woooooooo)
Here's the pics of how it came out. I still have to spend another day on "cosmetics" without the grinding, but I think for the last three nights of work, I'm happy.
(seat and steering column unmounted)
I was worried about the "parallel-ness" of these rear bars because I didn't want to attach directly on the main hoop bend, or mount the "feet" of these bars close to the edge of the rear plates. I just wanted to hit as center as possible and still be as parallel as possible just in case.
Here's the rear plates. These ones weren't bad, but the ones for the main hoop and door bars require removing the sound deadener (sp?) It wasn't hard to get off, but the stuff underneath the car catches fire as you weld the plates on from the top. The underbody fires reassured me that I was getting good welds on these things.
Here's the other side. Mount your doors with panels back on when fitting these door bars and give yourself 1/2" between the bar and your door panel.
Overall, Every one of the bars needed some type of notching/cutting/fitting to get it where it is now, but that's to be expected. I even had to chop 1/2" off the legs of the main hoop posts because it was too tall. :thumbup: (The main hoop of many kits seems to be the thing that I hate most, as most of them hang 2-3" down from the headliner.)
If you've ever built an awsome popsicle house and you have basic metal tools like a grinder and chop saw, I could recommend this one.
www.swracecars.com (8pt. Roll bar kit)
www.apexspg.com (Ultra shield seat retailer. Good people)
06-05-2005, 12:05 AM
#4
0.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
That's a seat made by a company called Ultra Shield. For the price, it was either that, or a entry level sparco seat. The material of the entry level sparco just didn't seem like it would hold up. Plus, you can't fade aluminum race seats on the street. 
Got it at www.apexspg.com in Oakdale. It's Jung4g's buddy that owns it. Good people.
Got it at www.apexspg.com in Oakdale. It's Jung4g's buddy that owns it. Good people.
06-05-2005, 01:54 AM
#10
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,082
Re: Project: Stealth Shuttle safety first
bling bling. I might have to copy you on the roll bar choice and the seat choice because I can't make decisions on my own.
http://www.swracecars.com/shippinginfo.asp
reading is fun.
Originally Posted by crx2fast
how much was the shipping on the roll cage set-up?
reading is fun.
