HomemadeTurbo - DIY Turbo Forum - Newbie, 408hp, 285tq, ls/vtec t3/60-1, 23psi, CRX videos inside.

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Originally Posted by Ntense90crxsi

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Originally Posted by projekteg

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Originally Posted by Ntense90crxsi

The sensor is a bosch and its only has like 3000 miles on it if that, I replaced my factory with this one that came in the plx kit. I dunno, seems to be working fine now but I dunno. Do you all think that is a pretty good curve on the dyno sheet and is there room for much improvement. I would really like to stay with 0bd0 if all possible, what are my options.

yeah, i know it's a bosch wideband sensor, but sometimes they go bad, especially if your car is running rich, how's your a/f ratio while cruising? that could kill it if it's rich at part throttle, but more than likely not in 3k miles like you state. your a/f ratio looks good in boost, a hair lean near red line, but with a program like turbo edit, you can tune your ignition timing and pull more power, also, from what i saw in the video's, it would drive MUCH smooter as well and have a much better transition in to boost. i could see it was breaking up a lot in lower boost, you could get the car to drive pretty much like stock.

What do you think is better turboedit or should I go through the steps and go uberdata, which is better. I would love to go turboedit, just not sure how to go about getting it. From what I understood on previous research, I would have to use a pm6, I couldn't use my pr3. If you or anyone else could give me a brief on what I need and what needs to be done I would glady get into it. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanx

Go with uberdata, turboedit is GREAT, but when you are pushing big power, like on a sleeved motor for example, uberdata just allows for more flexibitlity, and better map scaling.

if you do deside to go with turboedit, make a post in the fuel management portion of this site and there will be people glad to help you out, for turboedit, I believe you can use a PR4 or pr3 or maybe even a pm6 modded to control vtec, and then all you'd need after that would be 3 bar map sensor. (you'd need that with uberdata too)

In my experience, the way to tell that your wideband sensor is getting old, is that it becomes very slow to react. it will continue to get 'laggier' until it finally doesn't work at all. You can expect a sensor to last about as long as your spark plugs do. Too rich, or too high temperatures, cause premature failure, and exhaust leaks before the sensor(or vented wastegates) and excessive exhaust pressure can srcew with the numbers big time.