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My slow ass DSM build up

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Old 09-13-2007, 12:26 PM
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Default Re: My slow *** DSM build up

Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Looks sweet, I like DSMs when they are spotlessly clean and assembled with good gear.

Are you going to run that chipped trans gear?
No, that's been replaced by a new intermediate shaft from Sheptrans.
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Old 09-13-2007, 12:50 PM
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Default Re: My slow *** DSM build up

Sweet.

I just had to bust your onions because you posted up all the bling ----, and I saw a flaw.
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Old 09-13-2007, 01:33 PM
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Default Re: My slow *** DSM build up

Originally Posted by D Grade
If you're content with 12's.
I was being sarcastic, **** bag. 16G's are the #1 choice of people that like to "stick with what's proven". And they go 13's, not 12's.

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Old 09-13-2007, 02:22 PM
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Default Re: My slow *** DSM build up

Yeah I don't understand the cult following the 16G has, it's a small turbo and running fast times with it in cars that have been stripped of almost everything but the steering wheel and gas pedal, then replacing the turbo every few passes because you're overspinning and grenading it doesn't really impress me.
I'm probably getting an oldschool Garrett T04e 50 trim when I have the engine and gearbox assembled, the Bullseye Power T4 has a stupidly big exhaust wheel but the turbine housing is much too small to flow any air. I'm going to try it if I get a better turbine housing, something that will accept the 74mm wheel and still have a working nozzle.
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Old 09-13-2007, 02:41 PM
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Default Re: My slow *** DSM build up

Originally Posted by baldur
Yeah I don't understand the cult following the 16G has, it's a small turbo and running fast times with it in cars that have been stripped of almost everything but the steering wheel and gas pedal, then replacing the turbo every few passes because you're overspinning and grenading it doesn't really impress me.
I'm probably getting an oldschool Garrett T04e 50 trim when I have the engine and gearbox assembled, the Bullseye Power T4 has a stupidly big exhaust wheel but the turbine housing is much too small to flow any air. I'm going to try it if I get a better turbine housing, something that will accept the 74mm wheel and still have a working nozzle.
It has a cult because it bolts on completely in a 1g and its low entry price(prices have come down).I honestly think anything bigger than a 16g makes the dsm less fun.The comment on the cars going fast with a 16g completely stripped is bullshit.Tom Noonen went low 11.4@119 with a evo 16g in a gvr4 putting down 400+ to all 4 wheels.Tell me a gvr4 is a lightweight the bitch weighs more than a 2g awd.To each his own to me there is such a thing as too fast of a daily driver which makes a car not fun to me.
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Old 09-13-2007, 06:27 PM
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Default Re: My slow *** DSM build up

Originally Posted by theebluecrx
It has a cult because it bolts on completely in a 1g and its low entry price(prices have come down).I honestly think anything bigger than a 16g makes the dsm less fun.The comment on the cars going fast with a 16g completely stripped is bullshit.Tom Noonen went low 11.4@119 with a evo 16g in a gvr4 putting down 400+ to all 4 wheels.Tell me a gvr4 is a lightweight the bitch weighs more than a 2g awd.To each his own to me there is such a thing as too fast of a daily driver which makes a car not fun to me.
Nitrous can put a 3,400lbs, K03 powered GTi into the 4's if you really want it to. The turbo will have exactly ZERO to do with that time however.

I has a cult following because the average DSMer is a mindless, ignorant idiot, nothing more. It also doesn't have a low entry price. T04E's from 50-60trims all go for $575 as opposed to an EvoIII 16G for $580. The T04E's will make far more useable power and do so with a far large safety margin. And of course the only people that say larger (i.e. REAL) turbos make the car "less fun" are the people that have never experienced one. Explain to me WHY you need full boost at 2,500rpm when you will NEVER see that part of the powerband when driving fast. I have yet to hear a DSMer give a valid explaination for that question. They just say it because everyone else does. "You need a quick spooling turbo to make the car streetable" ...why? Do you really need 30psi off idle to get to work? Do you really need to be surging the turbo at part throttle while just maintaining speed up a hill with two people in the car?


Originally Posted by baldur
Yeah I don't understand the cult following the 16G has, it's a small turbo and running fast times with it in cars that have been stripped of almost everything but the steering wheel and gas pedal, then replacing the turbo every few passes because you're overspinning and grenading it doesn't really impress me.
This post is 1000% correct.
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Old 09-13-2007, 07:01 PM
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Default Re: My slow *** DSM build up

Originally Posted by AWDstylez
I was being sarcastic, **** bag. 16G's are the #1 choice of people that like to "stick with what's proven". And they go 13's, not 12's.

I was being sarcastic too, you ------- waste of fetus. And if you're stuck in 13's on even a small 16G, you're 1. a shitty driver, or 2. don't have proper supporting mods. I went 12.67 on my '92 TSi AWD with a ported to hell stock 14B @ 20psi (spiking to 18psi) on pump, 550cc's, 255lph, MAFT, etc...

Originally Posted by baldur
Yeah I don't understand the cult following the 16G has, it's a small turbo and running fast times with it in cars that have been stripped of almost everything but the steering wheel and gas pedal, then replacing the turbo every few passes because you're overspinning and grenading it doesn't really impress me.
As blue CRX stated, it's a complete bolt on to the stock 1G 14B turbo (which flows around 405cfm). A small 16G (around 500CFM) is exactly the same except for the inducer wheel (WG flapper optional). A B16G (which flows 550cfm) has an upgraded inducer and exh. wheel, 7cm exhaust housing, and 34mm WG flapper. The best part is that you sacrifice VERY little IF any spool time by upgrading to a small or Big 16G (100-200rpms MAX), but gain big power and efficiency over the 14B.

As for the grenading or "overspinning", every turbo reaches its peak efficiency sooner or later meaning a turbo is good for X amount of boost. Anything more and you're simply blowing hot air. For instance, a ported 14B turbo is good for power till 17-18psi, a ported small 16G 20-21psi, and a ported B16G around 23-24psi. Anything more, and you're simply not making any power because you've reached the max efficiency of that turbo.

Originally Posted by AWDstylez

I has a cult following because the average DSMer is a mindless, ignorant idiot, nothing more. T04E's from 50-60trims all go for $575 as opposed to an EvoIII 16G for $580.
Did you take into account he'll need to buy an external wg, manifold, and custom O2 housing/downpipe for the T04E? Where as he could simply port his stock 2G exhaust manifold and O2 housing and bolt a B16G on. The price is for a turbo he can't just slap on, your case for the price comparison is irrelevant.

And to me, a mindless, ignorant idiot is someone who says "get thiz turbo, it makes maad powa ova this turbo so that turbo sux". Take into account people have different needs/wants. Maybe he wants something quick spooling for drivability because it's his daily driver, yet still able to, and is totally content running 12's.



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Old 09-13-2007, 11:26 PM
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Default Re: My slow *** DSM build up

I thought that first pictures was straight up CGI.
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Old 09-14-2007, 12:36 AM
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Default Re: My slow *** DSM build up

Originally Posted by D Grade
I was being sarcastic too, you ------- waste of fetus. And if you're stuck in 13's on even a small 16G, you're 1. a shitty driver, or 2. don't have proper supporting mods. I went 12.67 on my '92 TSi AWD with a ported to hell stock 14B @ 20psi (spiking to 18psi) on pump, 550cc's, 255lph, MAFT, etc...

As blue CRX stated, it's a complete bolt on to the stock 1G 14B turbo (which flows around 405cfm). A small 16G (around 500CFM) is exactly the same except for the inducer wheel (WG flapper optional). A B16G (which flows 550cfm) has an upgraded inducer and exh. wheel, 7cm exhaust housing, and 34mm WG flapper. The best part is that you sacrifice VERY little IF any spool time by upgrading to a small or Big 16G (100-200rpms MAX), but gain big power and efficiency over the 14B.

As for the grenading or "overspinning", every turbo reaches its peak efficiency sooner or later meaning a turbo is good for X amount of boost. Anything more and you're simply blowing hot air. For instance, a ported 14B turbo is good for power till 17-18psi, a ported small 16G 20-21psi, and a ported B16G around 23-24psi. Anything more, and you're simply not making any power because you've reached the max efficiency of that turbo.

Few questions:

- 12.67 at what MPH?

- How do you set 20psi but "spike" 18psi?

- Why were you running a MAF-T: 1. at all 2. on a setup making that little power ?

- Since when do 16g's come with 34mm wastegate flappers? That's an aftermarket upgrade option for like $200

- What relevance does CFM have on a turbo car?

- Since when is efficiency related only to boost?

- Since when does turbine housing porting have anything to do with compressor efficiency?

- Since when is a B16G efficient at all, let alone to 24psi on a 2.0L?
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Old 09-14-2007, 01:25 AM
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Default Re: My slow *** DSM build up

Originally Posted by AWDstylez

Few questions:

- 12.67 at what MPH?

- How do you set 20psi but "spike" 18psi?

- Why were you running a MAF-T: 1. at all 2. on a setup making that little power ?

- Since when do 16g's come with 34mm wastegate flappers? That's an aftermarket upgrade option for like $200

- What relevance does CFM have on a turbo car?

- Since when is efficiency related only to boost?

- Since when does turbine housing porting have anything to do with compressor efficiency?

- Since when is a B16G efficient at all, let alone to 24psi on a 2.0L?
- 12.67 @ 107 with a 1.7 60'

- Stock wastegate flapper, unported wastegate passage. Caused boost to spike to a level, then drop off a psi or two as rmps go up. That be boost spike, yo.

- I needed some form of tuning adjustability for the 550cc's, right? Plus whynot? The 3" GM MAF sensor itself is a mod, it outflows the 1G MAS quite a bit. Easier to tune than an SAFC (even though not quite as acurate), no hack job required, option to go blow-through, etc... Need I go on? Power level doesn't matter to me as of why I got it, I got the MAFT for tuning and for improvement under driving condition over the 1G MAS along with the flow factor over the 1G MAS. Plus MAFT's go a long way, and I knew over time that the longer I had that DSM, the more I'd want to eventually upgrade.

- I don't believe it costs that much to add the 34mm WG option. I believe the Evo III B16G comes with a 34mm stock, but I could be wrong.

- You tell me why cfm and airflow isn't relevant. Are compressor maps irrelevant too?

- I didn't say that, I did however mention efficient spool up.

- Again, I never said it effected compressor efficiency. Porting smooths cast flaws and improves airflow by enlarging ports. Porting also helps with boost spike and boost creep in relation to porting of the WG port of the exhaust housing (when running an internal gate).

- Full boost by 3200rpms, full bolt on, yet can hold 24psi. What's not efficient about it? Look, and I mean LOOK for times of maxed out B16G powered cars with FULL supporting mods (and no spray or alcohol injection). I guarantee they arent running 13's like you say they are.
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