djfob

Should I be looking at a gravity fed or siphon style? also what does HVLP stand for? Also any painting or prepping tips is appreciated

MikeJ-2009

HIGH VOLUME, LOW PRESSURE.


I'm not a auto painter, but from what I hear the gravity fed is a better route. MrShrpnl knows a thing or two on the subject, though.

TheyCallMeBizzare

Gravity feed for sure. I have a digital SATA its a great gun..lemme tell you..but i used to paint cars so i broke bread for it. Are you looking for something more just for a couple times use? or like putting in serious work?

What kind of tips were you lookin for?

MikeJ-2009

After the painting subject, I'd like to find out just what "broke bread" means.


I'll sit back and read, as I have a car to paint in the near future.

accordepicenter

im told that the old school non HVLP guns did a better job at reducing orange peel, but in some areas they are illegal to use?

alfaaay

How much does a gravity fed gun cost? I was thinking about getting one too for painting small things, lips, side skirts, etc.

looking4boost

the non hvlp guns were better but no one makes them anymore but a light wet sand and buff makees it look good anyways

CRXDrew

depends how much you are gonna use the gun i guess... I paid 60 for my HVLP. Its a cheap, generic gravity fed. Its all in the prep/wetsand and ESPECIALLY polish. (And I paid for the cheapest paint possible). I got a post about it somewhere... on here and HT.

alfaaay

Wow your CRX looks like it turned out pretty good. What was involved in the painting process? How involved was your wetsanding? I tried doing it once by hand, 1000 grit, then 1500, then 2000, then hit it with rubbing compound. It looked good for a while, then started chipping like crazy and the shine wore off, but I think that had to do with my clear coat not being thick / good enough (this was a cheap rattle can job I did...)

90turboteg

ive painted about 3 cars, body work and all, my dad tought me how, his mustang turned out sick, that we just finished, we use a gravity feed for the actual paint and primer because its hvlp, and i use a umm, dam i forgot what its called, thats what happens when u have no sleep, its the kind wit the straw type thing that sucks the paint with compressed air, well i use that for primer, i only primer where i did body work, no reason to waste it on the whole car, to get orage peal away, i usaly use 1000-1500 grit wet/dry sand paper, using a constent spray witht he hose, trust me find all the little dings and ---- before u paint, or u will deff see them after , i found 1 little ding in my fender and i painted the whole dam thing again. ill post pics of my dads and my oil car, my new car is still in the process. its the prep that makes the paint look good, and when u spray, go in incriments somtimes, go like 8-14" away from the surface ur painting on, and go decently fast, watch what your doing. i norm paint like a door and like the fender at diff times, to make the paint more even. make sure there is alot of exhast fans, and some intake fans with filers on them, and i always wet the floor donw before i paint, i awlays will, until my new shop it built this summer and i have a paint booth . any other advise u need, i kno alot about this ----.

oh ya, i had a engine hoist fall on my car after i painted it to, broke the tail light, pushed the q panal in and creased it, and made that little center peice on the back all uneven, too me like 4hrs to get it all good again, but i couldnt tell it ever happend, exept the light kinda sitting back like 1/8" back. i ended up painin the whole back of the car again. and if ur gona paint ur moldings i recomend that u sand them, get this paint ---- called bully dog, lets paint adhere to placsic and other surfaces without cracking, good for plastic lips and ----. u can find it at a local paint or napa store. wow, i talked alot, well, ill get those pics up soon. hope this helped -blake