bigdaddyvtec

I must concur... Worked for me 20psi... from birth.

LOL


Thanks for slapping my baby on the *** Dr Leed!!!

beerbongskickass

That's way too rich dude.

beerbongskickass

Werd, that's the most important thing I have learned from reading all the different ways people break motors in. If you can't get it tuned right away then the stock ECU and stock injectors would be the next best option.

99 Si

sweet ! thats what i was kind of thinking too, now thats what i will do.

quick question tho, how much or if any effect will the low comp vitaras pistons have on the afrs ? i have a WB in my car but i'd like to know ahead of time. thanks.

beerbongskickass

You have a wideband? Do you also have a burner and is your ECU already chipped? I'd invest in a burner and then you can just adjust the A/F ratio yourself before you go to get it tuned. A lot of the engine break in articles I have read also say your rings will seat within the first few miles, so make sure things are running good on start up before you drive it much. I'm not sure how much the vitaras will affect your A/F ratio.

99 Si

i only have a WB and a chipped p28. i should just run it on a stock map, right ?

JDMFantasy2K

since we're on the subject, my b16 with 9:1 compression should be okay to run with the stock computer for break in correct?

Oscar

as long as you dont go too rich or lean, you should be fine.

Best way, and safest, is to just have a wideband with a display. If you see anything too rich/lean, you know you cant run the ecu you're running without it being tuned.

99 Si

so around mid 13's on n/a would be ideal, correct ?

Tom-Guy

To break the engine in naturally aspirated shoot for 12.5:1, there is a lot of friction (heat) during break in, and the extra fuel cools things. It's not an unsafe AFR at all, in fact it's what your car ran WOT from the factory. After 50-100 miles you can lean it out to 13.25-13.5 AFRs for best NA power.

If you want to break it in boosted, do the same only shoot for 11.8:1 to 12:1 AFRs and single digit boost. Up to 6 pounds is typically an insignificant amount of airmass on D-series, they are very forgiving in this region and it's hard to mess them up if you've retarded any timing. Once you cross the 7-8 psi/200 whp mark D-series like very little ignition timing. I generally start at 12 degrees @ 10 psi For D16A/Z, and 6 degrees at 10 psi for D16Y - the mojo is all in the cylinder head, so ignore block stamping and pay attention to which head you are running. If you start out with a decent basemap and have an Ostrich so you can tune on the fly you should be able to crank 10-20 psi in under 10 miles, then go back and fiddle the part throttle stuff to perfection later.

FYI, past 10-12 psi I also like to run D16 at 11.5:1 AFR, with how dense the charge is and the amount of cylinder pressure they generate it lights off easily and doesn't hurt power at all.