engine brake in ?
 

i recently blew up my stock z6. i have another z6 that is being built (tt rods/vitaras) for my crx but money is tight at the moment so ill be putting that motor in my coupe.

question is, HOW DO I BRAKE THE MOTOR IN ? or better yet, BRAKE IT IN N/A or UNDER BOOST ?



i read this http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm and it said to "run it hard." but the motor will be untuned for boost, so should i brake it in n/a ?? or brake it in while tuning for boost ??


lmk what you guys think. thanks.


SETUP:
z6 block w/ tt rods/vitara pistons
pp y8 head w/ stock cam/valve train
ebay t3 "super 60" @ ~ 12psi
stock fuel pump
450cc injectors
stock map sensor

Re: engine brake in ?
 

if its not going to be tuned, break it in NA untill u can tune it.

Re: engine brake in ?
 

Also, use conventional oil, and then after a hundred miles change oil and filter. I wouldnt use synthetic until 1000 miles or so.
Breaking the engine in hard is not my choice, but the motor should see da variety of RPM's, I let the motor gain RPM (well before redline) while driving then let off the gas to let the motor slow the car down to bring the idle down low. Repeat.

Re: engine brake in ?
 

ok while were on the subject,

i got a base tune im my car and the afr are around 9.4-9.8, now im building up my new engine 8.7:1 comp ratio the stock car is 9.2:1 but i dont have my tunning software yet. now im thinking that the afr will lean out but by how much, will it be safe to run the engine like that for a month at 8psi untill i buy my tuning software

and btw the software is 350$ fucken rip off but whatever.

and if anyone has a copy of the proracer software for the sct flash unit. hook it up. i better things to spend my money on.

Re: engine brake in ?
 

Motors are best broken in on 20+ psi.

Re: engine brake in ?
 

:6

Re: engine brake in ?
 

please explain further. ;)

Re: engine brake in ?
 

Dont break any engine in, NA or boost, if it's not tuned.

Too lean, you ruin your sleeves. Too rich, you ''wash'' out your rings.

Tune for afr's first, then follow the instructions on that website.

Re: engine brake in ?
 

but is 9.4 - 9.8 too rich

Re: engine brake in ?
 

Are you being sarcastic? I really hope so

Re: engine brake in ?
 

I must concur... Worked for me 20psi... from birth.

LOL


Thanks for slapping my baby on the ass Dr Leed!!! :y

Re: engine brake in ?
 

That's way too rich dude.

Re: engine brake in ?
 

Werd, that's the most important thing I have learned from reading all the different ways people break motors in. If you can't get it tuned right away then the stock ECU and stock injectors would be the next best option.

Re: engine brake in ?
 

sweet ! thats what i was kind of thinking too, now thats what i will do.

quick question tho, how much or if any effect will the low comp vitaras pistons have on the afrs ? i have a WB in my car but i'd like to know ahead of time. thanks.

Re: engine brake in ?
 

You have a wideband? Do you also have a burner and is your ECU already chipped? I'd invest in a burner and then you can just adjust the A/F ratio yourself before you go to get it tuned. A lot of the engine break in articles I have read also say your rings will seat within the first few miles, so make sure things are running good on start up before you drive it much. I'm not sure how much the vitaras will affect your A/F ratio.

Re: engine brake in ?
 

i only have a WB and a chipped p28. i should just run it on a stock map, right ?

Re: engine brake in ?
 

since we're on the subject, my b16 with 9:1 compression should be okay to run with the stock computer for break in correct?

Re: engine brake in ?
 

as long as you dont go too rich or lean, you should be fine.

Best way, and safest, is to just have a wideband with a display. If you see anything too rich/lean, you know you cant run the ecu you're running without it being tuned.

Re: engine brake in ?
 

so around mid 13's on n/a would be ideal, correct ?

Re: engine brake in ?
 

To break the engine in naturally aspirated shoot for 12.5:1, there is a lot of friction (heat) during break in, and the extra fuel cools things. It's not an unsafe AFR at all, in fact it's what your car ran WOT from the factory. After 50-100 miles you can lean it out to 13.25-13.5 AFRs for best NA power.

If you want to break it in boosted, do the same only shoot for 11.8:1 to 12:1 AFRs and single digit boost. Up to 6 pounds is typically an insignificant amount of airmass on D-series, they are very forgiving in this region and it's hard to mess them up if you've retarded any timing. Once you cross the 7-8 psi/200 whp mark D-series like very little ignition timing. I generally start at 12 degrees @ 10 psi For D16A/Z, and 6 degrees at 10 psi for D16Y - the mojo is all in the cylinder head, so ignore block stamping and pay attention to which head you are running. If you start out with a decent basemap and have an Ostrich so you can tune on the fly you should be able to crank 10-20 psi in under 10 miles, then go back and fiddle the part throttle stuff to perfection later.

FYI, past 10-12 psi I also like to run D16 at 11.5:1 AFR, with how dense the charge is and the amount of cylinder pressure they generate it lights off easily and doesn't hurt power at all.

Re: engine brake in ?
 

this was Earl Laskeys break in procedure. Seems like it works really well. It is what i will be doing with my motor if I ever get it done.