WORPeclipse

OK I have been reading and studying up on my build. I think I have more questions now than I did before I started. I am only lookin for about 325-350whp and it to be a very dependable DD. I have new OEM parts from Honda like water pump and timing belt.

First I'll post my mods/parts list

z6 stock bore block w/z6 head
JE/SRP 9.0:1 Pistons w/ JE rings 75mm
Eagle H beam rods
Stock Crank
ACL Race bearings
Air Research t3 50 trim
Edelbrock cast turbo mani
Custom 2.5" turbo back
Cometic 5 layer HG
Unorthodox under-drive pulley
DSM 510cc inj
Honda resistor box
Wally 190 lph (had brand new one layin around)
FMIC
Greddy BOV
MBC
Chipped p28 tuned with Crome
Innovate LC-1 Wideband
Autometer Boost gauge
Innovate auto timer(still have to order)
Xenocron 3 Bar map(still have to order) or
GM 3bar map
2.5" IC pipe
ARP Head studs(have to order)

My questions are about cam, head pnp, intake mani, throttle body, oil pump, and catch can/black pcv box.

Cam:
Do I need to upgrade my cam with what I have now? I dont have the cash for a new cam right now. Was wondering if I would be fine with my stock cam til I can get a cam and cam gear later on down the road.

Head Port and Polish(PnP):
I have been looking into doing a DIY PnP on my head. I have the knowledge and skill to do it just dont know about benefits with my goals.

Intake Mani:
I'm lookin into the y8 mani. I keep gettin mixed influences on if I should run it or not. Some people say yes others say no. I have read only good for boosted app like I'm doin and have read not good for boosted setups. I have a $200 credit at a local salvage yard and can get one of these for like $25 of that credit. Should I run one?

Throttle Body:
I have also been looking into a B or H series TB. I know the B series uses a map like the D series so the Xenocron map will work fine with it, and the H series uses a remote mount map so the GM unit will work there. Other than map location is there a benefit of one over the other?

Oil pump:
I have 2 questions here. First should i just replace or pull it apart and check spcs? Second should I port it or not? I have a -3AN oil line for my turbo with a -10AN drain. Somethings I have read say mic it and check tolerances if its in specs just leave it alone and run it, and if they are out just rebuild it. As far as porting it i have read would be good to have higher volume but dont need higher pressure.

Catch Can /PCV black box:
I was also thinking about removing my black box. Its leakin oil. Was goin to go with a Catch can in place of it. How do i plug the block, and whats the best way to do the PCV system? I have read with a turbo setup its best to remove the PCV system and use only a catch can. Whats the thoughts on this?

Please don't flame and just say search. I have searched and thats what lead me to ask the questions I'm askin. Any advise is thanked in advanced. I figured it would be best to just ask all in one thread rather than wasting space and doing it in multiple posts.

Also one last thing. I just found out yesterday one of my stones on my cylinder hone is cracked. Is it still ok to use or do I need to get another one?

What about Copper HG sprayy? Should I spray the Cometic HG with it?

MPR

First off, that turbo (T3-50 trim) is not going to support the kind of power you want. See the following compressor map for your engine @ 350hp and calculated boost requirement of 28psi.
http://www.***************/turbocalc...&product_id=77

Even a t3 60 trim won't do it. For that kind of flow, you need something substantially larger.

A T04E- 50 trim would work: http://www.***************/turbocalc...&product_id=58

And a Garrett GT3267 would work, but not as well. http://www.***************/turbocalc...&product_id=38

To get that kind of power from such a small engine requires a turbo that can support that kind of airflow. The problem with a larger turbo on a smaller engine is that it won't build boost until the upper 2/3's of the rpm range, making it basically useless on the street.

Honestly if you want to good street setup, use the t3-50 trim to make 250hp and you'll have a very good/wide power band. It'll build boost quick and hold it to 7000rpm easy. Anything over 250hp with fwd is useless on the street. With the 350hp setup, your car will be gutless and sluggish down low out side boost most of the time with daily driving.

My two cents.

This last link is the T3-50 trim on the d16 at 250hp @ est. 17psi boost required. A MUCH better setup imo.
http://www.***************/turbocalc...&product_id=77

MPR

^Damn, it won't let me post links to those compressor maps....

MPR

See below in red.

WORPeclipse

The setup I was runnin was makin over 200 at 10psi on a DSM t25 and stock motor. The map I was runnin the guy dynoed 235whp with exact same mods. I wont say i was at that cause I never had it dynoed. So your sayin with droppin .2on my comp I'm goin to have to up my boost 7psi to get 15 more hp. Somthin isn't right there.

The DSM guys copper spray their gaskets and it seems to help them alot and I'm not goin to push the boost with this that I am from my Holset on my stroked DSM.

Stones for my hone are cheap enough I'm just goin to replace them.

I can't mem right off but it may be a 57 trim t3. From what your sayin it wont make a diff anyways.

I will just check my pump to make sure its within specs.

I have a buddy here that has a 409whp DD boosted Civic coupe. He was making this with a z6 and had no probs drivin it around at all.

Will I benefit from the y8 mani?

Whats the best way to plug the hole in the block from the black box?

I talked to the guy from Delta Cams today and told him I was wantin one for a turbo app. He said no prob.

MPR

What size engine was this "other setup" with the t25 you're talking about?

The numbers will vary to a degree, but given an rpm, engine displacement and power output, a specific amount of airflow is required to make a certain amount of power. It's simple math and thermodynamics/physics. For a specific engine with X displacement to make X hp at X rpm will require a certain about of airflow which will require a certain amount of boost. There are things that will effect boost requirement like compression ratio, head, intake and exhaust manifold design as well as target AFR. But generally you can make a fairly accurate assumption/calculation based on displacement, rpm and power output.

I bet your buddys 409whp civic didn't make any useful boost until at least 4500-5000rpm. I never said it wasn't do-able or drivable, just not practical. No power below 4500rpm on the street sucks. And 409whp through the front wheels is useless, especially through the first 3 gears. What's the point? If it's a drag car, then fine. But for the street, it just a waste.

WORPeclipse

It was the stock z6. I cant mem where is boost is. I was thinkin closer to 4000. They guy I'm gettin the turbo from said it was rated at 325-350. Idk I may have the specs wrong. But like you sais the turbo rating can vary from application to application.

MPR

200hp from a 1.6L engine would require approximately 10-11psi boost. So that's right on the money.

For that other guy to be making 235 with the same boost and same engine, I'd be a little skepical. 235hp should require closer to 15psi boost and 250hp should require about 17psi for a 1.6L. (give or take)

WORPeclipse

he showed dyno sheets. we where using the exact same tune and mod list. But I know from vehicle to vehicle it can vary. Thats why I cant say i was putting down 235whp but I do know it was over 200. No it wasnt dyno provin on my side. Once the new build is done i will take it to a dyno.

motoxman

350 whp is completely do-able with your proposed setup... It will take a good tuner to get it ther but should not be difficult