where can i get a turbo cam for my sohc?
11-03-2005, 07:38 PM
#2
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 842
Re: where can i get a turbo cam for my sohc?
Originally Posted by TurbodEG
i want like a skunk 2 turbo cam for a d16y8, zex or crower stage 2 would be cool too...anyone know of any sites?
http://www.zex.com/
http://www.crower.com/
http://www.racingworks.com/skunk2_cams_stage_2_3_1_camshafts.htm
11-04-2005, 08:36 AM
#4
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: where can i get a turbo cam for my sohc?
Limit of a stock Z6 head, with the popular T04E compressors, is 400-ish whp. If you run a Holset that is good past 3.0 (~30 psi range) PR, you can make more power than that.
Effective knock limit for bone stock head is going to be in the 350 whp range. A cam may raise this limit some, but it's the last thing on a long list of items I'd opt for. I'd get, in order of priority:
1) merge collector manifold
2) stiffer exhaust valvesprings (helps keep the exhaust valves, which get pretty hot in a boosted setup, seated against the valve seat without bounce... which helps them transfer heat to the head)
...
34) a date with hotrex's ex gf
35) aftermarket SOHC turbo cam
36) watching hotrex **** in kevin's wife's cooter
Now. That being said. If you are wanting to spin the D16 higher... a good bit higher... and are willing to drop some jack on having the head done, good valvetrain, o/s valves... I'd run a moderate NA cam with a laggier turbo. The idea is to bring in the main portion of the boost event past the point where the naturally occuring torque peak starts to fall off. You generate less torque (which is an indication of cylinder filling and therefore engine compressive load, and cylinder charge density which is a good indication of how close to knock limit you are) but the higher rpms turn this into mutant hp. This is the difference between LS and GSR, is the reason why the GSR has a knock limit 100 whp higher, and why the GSR can hold more power with more reliability. To do this properly, it's going to take some money... the D16 bottom end is also going to have to be finessed a bit (read the Endyn article on assembling a D-series bottom end) to overcome oiling problems and to deal with the revs - it's not just all in the head.
You see, a drop in turbo cam without the whole enchilada is just the waste of a good chunk of money. hp per psi means nothing, it is a compressor limited situation where you make as much power as the compressor is good for regardless of what psi it occurs at, and a simple cam swap on D16 VTEC isn't going to raise your knock limit as much as spending that money on a merge collector manifold.
Effective knock limit for bone stock head is going to be in the 350 whp range. A cam may raise this limit some, but it's the last thing on a long list of items I'd opt for. I'd get, in order of priority:
1) merge collector manifold
2) stiffer exhaust valvesprings (helps keep the exhaust valves, which get pretty hot in a boosted setup, seated against the valve seat without bounce... which helps them transfer heat to the head)
...
34) a date with hotrex's ex gf
35) aftermarket SOHC turbo cam
36) watching hotrex **** in kevin's wife's cooter
Now. That being said. If you are wanting to spin the D16 higher... a good bit higher... and are willing to drop some jack on having the head done, good valvetrain, o/s valves... I'd run a moderate NA cam with a laggier turbo. The idea is to bring in the main portion of the boost event past the point where the naturally occuring torque peak starts to fall off. You generate less torque (which is an indication of cylinder filling and therefore engine compressive load, and cylinder charge density which is a good indication of how close to knock limit you are) but the higher rpms turn this into mutant hp. This is the difference between LS and GSR, is the reason why the GSR has a knock limit 100 whp higher, and why the GSR can hold more power with more reliability. To do this properly, it's going to take some money... the D16 bottom end is also going to have to be finessed a bit (read the Endyn article on assembling a D-series bottom end) to overcome oiling problems and to deal with the revs - it's not just all in the head.
You see, a drop in turbo cam without the whole enchilada is just the waste of a good chunk of money. hp per psi means nothing, it is a compressor limited situation where you make as much power as the compressor is good for regardless of what psi it occurs at, and a simple cam swap on D16 VTEC isn't going to raise your knock limit as much as spending that money on a merge collector manifold.
11-04-2005, 09:03 AM
#7
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,995
Re: where can i get a turbo cam for my sohc?
i'm guessin i should do the block first...i just ordered my pistons...now i just need rods and something like block guard/block post. i'm not payin to sleeve it...that cost to much
lol everytime i try to do something like that i ---- it all up
11-04-2005, 09:23 AM
#10
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: where can i get a turbo cam for my sohc?
It's pretty easy, really.
1) send the block to the machine shop to be properly hot tanked first
2) *level* the block... I used a cloth folding camp chair and tweaked on it until I had the deck level, you can do much the same with a engine stand and some washers to shim the mount points.
3) cuff the coolant passages a little with scotchbrite
4) fill the floor of the cooling passage with table salt. Avoid the bigger chunky salt, the epoxy likes to flow down in it and you end up with salt in suspension with the epoxy. Makes the bottom of the epoxy porous.
5) let cure for two hours
6) heat up to 200 degrees somehow - or not. I lagged a bit about curing mine, it was hard as a rock by the 12th hour when I got to it. No harm done, I am sure.
7) send off to have the bores honed.
You can print out the thread and give it to your machinist, see if he'll take care of it for you. That's an idea. My machinist did all the work to fit the LS rods in my D16 out of his shop at home, most of those guys are real handy like that.
1) send the block to the machine shop to be properly hot tanked first
2) *level* the block... I used a cloth folding camp chair and tweaked on it until I had the deck level, you can do much the same with a engine stand and some washers to shim the mount points.
3) cuff the coolant passages a little with scotchbrite
4) fill the floor of the cooling passage with table salt. Avoid the bigger chunky salt, the epoxy likes to flow down in it and you end up with salt in suspension with the epoxy. Makes the bottom of the epoxy porous.
5) let cure for two hours
6) heat up to 200 degrees somehow - or not. I lagged a bit about curing mine, it was hard as a rock by the 12th hour when I got to it. No harm done, I am sure.
7) send off to have the bores honed.
You can print out the thread and give it to your machinist, see if he'll take care of it for you. That's an idea. My machinist did all the work to fit the LS rods in my D16 out of his shop at home, most of those guys are real handy like that.
