its bad to inject before the turbo it will eat away at ur turbine place imediataley after the intercooler i thinks is the best place. but i guess most people are running junkyard turbos so if you get a year out of it you probably would be happy?

 

That's the nozzles job. I tapped into my 'charge'pipe, not intake. The nozzle makes the mist.

 

How about posting up your parts list. According to that article, it will cost a lot more than $20 to do it.

Some pics of the setup would be cool too.

 

im pretty sure washer fluid is 50/50 methanol/water.

 

Pump was $12 (already had this)
Nozzle was $13
switch ($2)
checkvalve from walmart (fish section) $2
had the hose...

very simple... just jbwelded the nozzle on the chargepipe (carefully), and painted it flatblack to make it all look clean... My plan is to have a switch on the floor behind the gas pedal so when I floor it, the water injection does its work.. like nos. I rarely floor it in traffic anyway... boost is plenty powerful at ~90% throttle. The pump I got is not strong enough so I'm getting the one that the website recommended which is a 40psi pump! The one I'm using is only like 12-15 which is way to wimpy... considering that you have to subtract the number of boost that you're running. The pump has to overpower the turbo's boost pressure.

My washer fluid tank is on the opposite side of the car in the hole where the old resonator use to go near the battery. This is why water injection is known as the poor man's intercooler... even though I have a pretty nice FMIC. The reason those fancy kits cost so much is because they have a control unit to be activated under certain conditions... like above 11 psi or something...

 

https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...d=4257;start=0

on a scale of one to good I'm just ------- awesome. everyone please note how I own a noob on there.

 

Thanks Kyle, I'll deal with this ---- when I have time.. I'll formulate something and make a sticky or some ----.

 

you know if your blowing the cap off your ww res. then most likly the boost is blowing the water back into the res. and it would render the water injection useless IE that is why a water hammer is practly essental, it keeps good strong pressure on the WI tip thus pusing more water and keeping the boost out lol. That is hte biggest most expensive part of the whole kit, that hammer new ranges from $50 to $150 and the pressure sensor which i belive through napa is like $20-$50. the rest of the parts are cheap. Sometime here soon ill do a how to on it, one that is better than the old chacko post.

 

the pressure sensor is not necessary, and a check valve could be used in place of the water hammer bringing the setup into the hmt price range. instead of using the napa pressure switch you could just go to www.national.com and pick up a free sample of their LM311 hook pin 2 up to +5 volts (get a voltage regulator at radio shack real cheap) and the 3 pin up to a 50k ohm resistor, and hook pin 7 up to your positive input for your pump relay and you're off to the races.

 

Damn Kyle, did you figure that out yourself or is it in that thread you pulled up that I still haven't read?