jarebear667

if you get your boost source from your intake manifold instead of the compressor side of the turbo you wilkl gain back your 1 pound of boost you are losing throught the intercooler and all that ----.

losesomethinbra

Are you shifting at redline or short shifting? What is your redline? At what rpm does your turbo reach full boost?

I had my pressure signal off the turbo, and I saw a consistant 8.5lbs every time if it was under full boost. Didnt matter what gear or anything. Of course the pressure at the intake manifold was a little less, but my gauge didnt really show me a 1.5psi or so drop. Always put the pressure signal to the intake manifold as long as you're sure its tuned to handle it

jcarlos232

Sorry busy. Anyway my redline is at set at 9000 just for safety. But I shift at 8000 rpm. Full boost at 3500 rpm. I do have the wastegate hooked up at the turbo. I have a turboxs controller that I will put on just to see if it does the samething that the greddy one is doing. I remember (hear) the wastegate opened at 6psi and 8.5 for what I remember last night. (Hear). I have not had the chance to take out the cat. out yet. I'm thinking this might be one of the problems? But then again the wastegate should not open up early. Second my boost gauge can be the next problem? It's new! While I'm busy with my everyday life stuff. Please keep giving info on this subject Thanks!

Slo_crx1

I'm sorry, but you sir are an idiot. It has nothing to do with the amount of "exhaust flow" over the turbine wheel.

As to the original poster, welcome to the wonderful world of load increase. Your
pressure will start out low until a higher amount of load is placed on the turbo, then pressure will start to increase. 1st gear won't have as much pressure (less load) as 2nd gear, and 2nd won't have as much as 3rd (because 3rd places a higher load on the engine). As for the pressure difference between wg spring and manifold, it's because your pressure source comes from the turbo outlet and you get a pressure drop through the piping and IC. Also, afr's will have an affect on boost pressure and spool time. From what you've posted, your're running too rich...lean it out and you will get more consistent and faster boost response. 12.5 coming into boost, and richen up to 11 at the most under boost.
One thing that puzzles me is your turbo...you list it as t3/t4, but say it's a .63 hotside and a .42 cold side? Perhaps you're confused with the older Garrett t3 .48/.42's?

P.S. Ditch the Turbo XS controller and get a standard mbc.

jcarlos232

Really Thanks for the feedback slo crx1. Please read all the post on what I wrote okay. I'm going to have a chance to work on it today. Anyway yea the turbo is a t3/t4 42cold 63hot. I know this because I change it out to a 42cold. Anyway I understand the load pressures and loseing boost thru the intercooler and ic pipes but the part that I don't get is my first gear went to 9.5psi. and thrid gear didn't even get to 9psi! this is why I started this topic. Thanks!

Slo_crx1

Since it's a Garrett compressor, what's the housing designation? to4b? to4e? What trim? A/R's are in general useless info without trim levels. T3/T4 is not a compressor size or trim, it just states what parts are used. You need to specify what type of wg...internal, external, and what type of boost controller it is (not just turbo xs or greddy...they make a bunch of different controllers), manual, ball & spring type, bleed style, electronic, etc. Are there adjustable settings, is it the 2 stage controller...info like that.
Also what motor to have a 9000 rpm redline? B16? Hope you got some good valvetrain if that's the case.
Oh, and if you can post up the map for this .42 cold side turbo you speak of, this I want to see.

jcarlos232

The turbo was a to4e but the compressor side had a little damage to the housing. I had a garrett to4b in my storage room so I put the 42ar that the to4b had on the 63ar. the greddy is electronic. The turboxs is a dual stage controller. My valve train has type r springs,skunk 2 tit. retainers,type r valves,gsr cams. I will take apart again to change the valves for stainless steel ones and springs too. The first post stated a tial wastegate 10.15 spring which is a external. I said the the redline is set at 9000rpms just incase I shift to late and go over 8000rpms. I don't pass this range. I'll take a pic as soon as I get a chance. So you can see the turbo. Thanks got to go

Slo_crx1

Ok, so all you really had to say was you were running a to4b (small turbo, just a hair bigger than a t3 .63/.60 60 trim) From everything you've posted so far, it sounds like a boost controller issue, try changing the settings or swap over to a manual bleed style for the tial gate. To only run 10 psi there is no need for a 2 stage, and it's not like that compressor is going to flow any magnificent numbers to really need high boost. Other than that the only other things that might have any real bearing on your issue is exhaust restriction, wastegate placement, or manifold design. If the greddy unit is setup anything like the blitz controller, a lot of times they are load dependent and depends on user settings to reach a certain pressure. I personally never really cared for ebc's, on any of my honda's I've only run mbc's and on my Evo I control all my boost through the ecu.

jcarlos232

Hey sol crx here it is.

jcarlos232

wrong