Turbo CRX D16A6
 

I am finally starting my turbo project for my 89 CRX Si. My plans are to build up the D16A6 with JE Piston, pauter rod, knife edge crank, Metal HG, angel valve job, etc. Would an AGP T25 upgrade with a GT25 CHRA be too big? I will be running standalone EMS, probably AEM with larger Zdyne 450 injectors.

Re:Turbo CRX D16A6
 

that should be just fine..

Re:Turbo CRX D16A6
 

Let me know how much the bottom end work is costing you, ie knife edged crank, Pistons/rods....

Re:Turbo CRX D16A6
 

knife edging a crank for daily driving is horrible to do, expect a rebuild in 10,000 miles

Jeff

Re:Turbo CRX D16A6
 

Labor is between $2000 and $2500. At least that is my budget. Engine parts is another $1000 - $1500. That doesn't include turbo, AEM ECU and injectors.

1. Race Engineering Spec Wiseco Piston 8.8:1 compression -$389
2. Eagle Rods - $369
3. ARP Head Fastener - $110
4. Cometic Head Gasket - $???
5. NUFormz block guard - $160.00

The cheaper route would be stock piston and shot peen rods. But I do want to lower the compression. This car will serve double duty as a daily beater and a track car at Watkins Glenn, Lime Rock and NHIS. I don't want to risk that on my 93 MR2 Turbo.

I got to find a shop that can install block guard properly. Otherwise that is a scratch. This is planned for late spring.

Re:Turbo CRX D16A6
 

I got the following reply from Larry Widmer at Endyn asking price for head work and block guard. Here is the response.

----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Widmer
To: Steven Hung
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild


The headwork for D series engines is $895.00 with stock, or oversize stainless valves available at $14.50 each. Spring and titanium retainer kits are $395.00.
We do not recommend the use of blockguards, however, we do post the cylinders in D series engines.
LW
----- Original Message -----
From: Steven Hung
To: staff@theoldone.com
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 11:40 AM
Subject: Engine Rebuild


Do Endyn offer any block work and heading work for D16A6 engine? I was told by the guy, Jeff, at homemadeturbo you the only one that install block guard properly.

BTW I tried the BBS menu option but it doesn't work.

Steven Hung

Re:Turbo CRX D16A6
 

No I didnt say go to endyn to get a block guard installed dude, Endyn disapproves any use of block guards. I said to install a block guard correctly you will need to get it welded in place and then get the deck of the block resurfaced, then rebore the cylinders.

Endyn does "Post/Pinning" work for cylinder support. This is what I have done to my zc. that runs around 300 bucks. (after shipping) Nascar uses this method of support as well.

Jeff

Re:Turbo CRX D16A6
 

My misunderstanding. It is an education. This is what I found on Endyn site under archive.

The concept is really a good one. My personal experience with them is that the top of the cylinder bore runs extremely hot due to the lack of coolant. We have taken the unit and used a 3/8" end mill and scalloped the circular sections which surround the cylinder bores. We leave only 1/8th" sections every 3/8th". So you still support the cylinder, but only in 1/8th" wide areas, which allows much better cylinder cooling, and if you do this mod, and you really need the support, do it....it'll work. Make sure that after "fitting" the unit, bore and hone after installation. Also deck the block after installation and clean the block thoroughly before assembly. Do not, under any circumstances remove the blockguard after all this machining and prep, or you'll need to start over........................T.O.O. ..........................

Re:Turbo CRX D16A6
 

yup, the archives of T.O.O are great.. lots of good info, damn I miss that board.. :(

Jeff

Re:Turbo CRX D16A6
 

My project is looking more like a normal engine rebuild with forge piston, rods and ARP studs. Next reseach subject is Swain ceramic coating and Swain oil shedding coating.

Another EMail I got form Larry Widmer at Endyn. Do you know the term "post cylinder?"

----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Widmer
To: Steven Hung
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild


Blockguards don't permit water to physically contact the hottest portion of the cylinder (the top 1/2"), so they actually invite detonation due to higher combustion space temperatures. Cylinders break in the middle on engines with LR ratios like the D series, then the crack ------s to the top.
We post the cylinders to prevent "wobble" as you call it, with no adverse effects on cooling...in fact posted cylinders cool better than stock.
If you want to run less timing and more fuel to prevent detonation (and make less power), go with the blockguard.
LW