TT Rods Quick Q.
#1
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TT Rods Quick Q.
Im still working on the GRM car , have a little over 70 days left to finish it. Engine is all ready to go back together. Got my turbo mani from Eville
Im about to order some TT rods and ARP headstuds.
Just wondering if I need bearings with the Rods as well or if they are included.
Thanks!
-J
00Tdi
89 Si GRM $2008 Build
86 fiero GT , Northstar 32V v8 5spd.
79 Caddy 2 door 425
66 Corvair turbo , incooled , blow through TO4
56 Isetta.
Im about to order some TT rods and ARP headstuds.
Just wondering if I need bearings with the Rods as well or if they are included.
Thanks!
-J
00Tdi
89 Si GRM $2008 Build
86 fiero GT , Northstar 32V v8 5spd.
79 Caddy 2 door 425
66 Corvair turbo , incooled , blow through TO4
56 Isetta.
#10
Re: TT Rods Quick Q.
You might hit 330 whp with the wastegate line removed. If the car is light that's enough for a low 11 in the 1/4, ASSuming you can launch and your suspension isn't bombed out.
Should be a good spooling setup. I've not mucked about a whole lot with that turbo on a D16, but on an LS going from .48 turbine with no IC to a .63 turbine with a huge 24X11X4" IC delayed my spool from 1800 rpms to 2400-2500 rpms. Still a very broad power band. D16 should do a credible job spooling that, too, most of the T3/T04E hybrids with the bigger stage 3+ turbine wheels and .63 housings make their first positive pressure at 3K and have 10 psi by 3500. If you rev out to 7-7.5K that's a nice chunk of power, IMO, but you will have to keep boost down for auto-x.
So, yah, get the STD size ACLs FTW! The way the aftermarket rods are set up they are all "green" rods and bearings, which is the intermediate OE size. As long as you have the .0015" clearance you're fine, I wouldn't worry if it comes out a ten thousandth or three looser, but there is a 5% chance you'll end up with less than that. At that point you either scrape/hone the ACL a little like an old school babbit bearing, or you belly up to Honda and drop $$$. If you try and use all Honda bearings expect upwards of $225 for bearings, versus:
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=87538.0
Let me know if I can help in any way, I like me some Hondas and I know my way around them pretty well.
Should be a good spooling setup. I've not mucked about a whole lot with that turbo on a D16, but on an LS going from .48 turbine with no IC to a .63 turbine with a huge 24X11X4" IC delayed my spool from 1800 rpms to 2400-2500 rpms. Still a very broad power band. D16 should do a credible job spooling that, too, most of the T3/T04E hybrids with the bigger stage 3+ turbine wheels and .63 housings make their first positive pressure at 3K and have 10 psi by 3500. If you rev out to 7-7.5K that's a nice chunk of power, IMO, but you will have to keep boost down for auto-x.
So, yah, get the STD size ACLs FTW! The way the aftermarket rods are set up they are all "green" rods and bearings, which is the intermediate OE size. As long as you have the .0015" clearance you're fine, I wouldn't worry if it comes out a ten thousandth or three looser, but there is a 5% chance you'll end up with less than that. At that point you either scrape/hone the ACL a little like an old school babbit bearing, or you belly up to Honda and drop $$$. If you try and use all Honda bearings expect upwards of $225 for bearings, versus:
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=87538.0
Let me know if I can help in any way, I like me some Hondas and I know my way around them pretty well.
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