Toyota Tacoma Under-Bed Turbo?
 

Hey all,
I have seen kits for fullsize chevys that ned not run a cooler because there is so much piping but is there any ideas or anybody who has done one of these? Im looking to make a cheaper homeade one as the truck is not worth alot and would b fun to play with.Thanks!

should be simple enough, i work for toyota. let me know if you need some info, and what year taco do you have?

Well im wondering if you have seen it. just a junkyard turbo. replace the muffler with it. A few oil lines and some galv. piping and run low boost. Just to spunk it up. Not looking for a powerhouse

what taco do you have???WHAT ENGINE , what year?

Opps lol. Its 95.5 reg cab short bed 4x4 with the 3rz. Ijust replaced the motor after blowing it in a pond so its a brand new motor. not reman. so i think it will b fine with boost for long as i have it. plus i can make a snorkle for it too...

So let me get this straight....You blew it up without a turbo, and now you think it can handle boost?

I'm sure it can. You, I'm not so sure about.

yeah i think he said he just wants something to play with , (couple psi)
but like aaron said you cant just boost and go drive a car like you do any other one.
you have to take care of it *i baby mine* some dont but i do .

ive seen a company make remote mount turbo kits for tacomas and tundras .. they were like 1200? i think ? .. try Performance Products® – Performance Parts and Accessories. i might of seen it in on of their catalogs

Well i have owned turbo vehicles ( talon, diesel trucks,ect.) but the truck only cost me 2000and im just waiting on the rust recall but its a solid truck so i dont want to put a $1200 kit on it then have them take it back. And i see people online going offroad and things with thiers so i dont plan on driving it any easier than i have been but then again its not like i trash it daily. Just weekends sometimes ill find a trail or a mudhole with buddies so...

You're an idiot.

Owning /=/ building

Yea i must be because id rather turbo something i can drive than a Fiero i cant fit inside. Tool. But anyway what is a good junkyard turbo to find with low mileage? Off a older saab or can i geta cheap but with quality off ebay?

I'm 6 foot ------- 4 and I fit great. It has more leg room than my Jeep Grand Cherokee. Don't preach what you don't know.

I don't think you will (or can for that matter), turbo anything, despite having one of the easiest cars to turbo.

6 foot ------- 4 must be larger than a regular 6' 4". I was wrong. Sorry. And its a truck not a car so maybe thats where ur confused. Anyway im looking for constructive input. Not a loner with way to much time on his hands to build up a pile and then hate on others so. Anybody ELSE think they could chime in?...

so the point is you just want a little something to play with right? thats what you said erlier in the post.
just put any turbo on there!

Yea just something cheap but is there and factory turbos that have a better reputation for being rugged or any that are abundant injunkyards? I dont want to get oe and then find out it is notorious for blowing seals, ect. ya know. Thanks!

im not sure on that , but a 14b or 16 off a eclipse would do you right or............. if i were you i would totally get a supra turbo just cause it will say Toyota on it lol...im using a toyota mr2 turbo . it was garbage when i got it for free.....but i rebuilt it and its awsome now.

Yea ill tell ppl its factory lol. Ill look around for them then...

the ct26 is a piece if ---- dont listen to him go look at a compressor map

well turbof22 he said that he wasnt looking for a DRAG car so i dont see why not? it might not be one of the best turbo's but................i think that he is just looking for a lil fun. but thanks for your imput. You should prolly try reading the whole post before saying your one little line like you always do.

You want to see a chevy truck with mid mount turbo? look at my truck. 2000 s10, LS1 v8 swap. 8psi.

Attachment 7029

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That's one sexy setup, Iowa.

*splooge

turbas belong under the hood not under the car rear mount is bullshit if it aint broke dont fix it

1. Your name is ------- retarded. Learn how to spell VTEC.
2. Do you even know the benefits of a rear mount turbo?
3. If it isn't broken, don't fix it? That's the motto you're going to use here? Your name is a clear reference to Honda, and I highly ------- doubt you own or even know of any cars made by Honda that come with turbos, so any turbo you're working with violates the principle you just quoted.
4. Proofread your ----. Use some god damn punctuation. And, it's a turbo, not a turba.

I agree ZMX, except for #2, because there really aren't any.

Sure there are.

A rear mount turbo is easier to set up because of space constraints (not that there are many on a truck), and it has cooler intake temperatures.

I don't consider the ease of setup really an advantage. It's like saying a CAI is easier than swapping cams.

As for the cooler charge temperatures, is that really an advantage? First off, we need to find a car that has problems with charge temperatures. Mine doesn't. Maybe that's because it's a well-designed kit. Regardless, finding one that does isn't hard. Now because of the higher IATs, it needs to back off a few degrees of timing. I guarantee you, both kits being equally designed, it will still make better numbers. Furthermore, steps can be taken to lessen the IATs. Better intercooler, better turbocharger, etc. Fact is, while the rear mount may have better IATs, the front mount will still outperform it, so the advantage is negligible.

A. ---- you.... whats the benefit of having a turbo that far from its power source besides lag and rust?
B. i know how to spell vtec u fucktard its a joke i am named after a phone...

on a seperate note my roommate has a 01 b4c car with a gt4788, and i am in the process of doing a hx40vgt d16 in my 1900lb racecar, so yes i have a little experience with turbos and i still think rear mount is junk...

show me 1 fast reliable rear mount car and i can find 100 traditional setups that are faster.

Let me get this straight...You're building a racecar, and it weighs 1900lbs? I ------- hope it has power windows, a stereo with subs, and an iron block 350 to weigh that much.

well i retain stock tubs floor pan and firewall plus the weight of a cage 2 seats and im still around 500lbs lighter then a stock car... not to bad....

and i still wana hear the benefits of a rear mount setup?

sorry thoght u were the other guy i wasnt waiting for u to tell me the benefits.

other than space are their any other benifits of an under car set up?

Not a single one.

i just dont know how u would run the oil return line effeciently

With an oil pump. It is not efficient or durable, but people do it nonetheless. Not that that should surprise you, reading the idiocracy contained in this thread alone.

Mentioned earlier in the post... The CT26 is not a great turbo or even a "good" turbo for that matter. Yes, if you rebuild one it might last for 50 to 60,000 miles at normal boost levels, however, the turbine housings crack after old age sets in. If you turn up the boost however, the 270 thrust bearing rolls over and your back at square one.

Back in the day 5 - 7 years ago, people started machining 360 degree thrust bearings into the CT26 CHRA's, but if it was not done perfectly, they failed shortly after. This is why the CT26 has been pushed aside for other turbo's over the years. The only shop that I know of that did a nice job of upgrading the CT26 CHRA quit doing it because the end customers started having troubles finding turbine housings that were not cracked badly and this killed the demand.

Also, I'm not sure what size engine we are discussing, but putting a TDO5H 14B or TDO6H 16G from a Mitsubishi Eclipse (DSM) style of engine won't do so well on a 3.0L V or inline 6 engine. If I was going this route, I would get a Mitsu style 20G and make DAMN sure it has a TDO6H turbine wheel on the hotside to support an engine of this size. The TDO6H turbine wheel is big and will flow enough to keep up and the 20G compressor wheel would be much better matched to an engine of this size. My old built 4G63 stopped making good power at around 6300 rpm's on a TDO5H 16G and that a was stock displacement 2.0L 4G63 with a good flowing head. Maybe the engine isn't a 3.0L and I'm just lost, but putting this in before you make a mistake.

rear mounts are more budget based that an advantage

How so? 12 feet of aluminum piping and 8 4-ply silicone connectors makes for a very expensive charge side. You also need an oil pump, 20 feet of oil lines, a new air filter every couple months, and everything else needed costs the same. A decent front mount will be cheaper, and more advantageous is nearly every way that matters.

you could use abs for charge pipe. $70 oil pump. high temp tranny lines for oil lines. make a shield for the filter, keep crap out. plus some front mounts require ac to be removed.

Halfass builds produce halfass performance, and cost more in the long run.

i'll agree with you on that but the stuff i mentioned is in no way half ass. shurflo 8000 series have been used on applications before with no problems. tranny lines can be used but must be shield from any "hot" spots. abs is perfect for charge its just guys out there have their mind set "i gotta do it the expensive way, cuz thats the only way". its like the first time someone mentioned using aluminum for a head or even a block. everyone thought "what the hell is this guy thinking, what a dumbass" but nowadays thats the way to go. i'm just saying there are other ways of doing things and they should be explored and stubborn closed minded people should try to understand.