Okay you don't have to bite my head off for asking a question. but so far no one has been able to explain WHY the O2 sensor won't give it more fuel after all that's what it's there for, to keep the right fuel air mixture.
BTW i'm only planning to run 5 or 6 PSI boost

 

enines ECU's run by the maf sensor, the maf sensor is desinged to work with the ecu's fuel maps thinking that it is naturally aspirated situation. It dosent know how to handle boost, so it just thinks the engine is running at 100% in weird parts of the map. You run into problems with running rich then lean thru the RPM curve. the O2 sensor dosent do much on OEM ECU's

 

thank you for explaining that it's nice to finally find someone who knows what there talking about.

 

if u needed an explaination on y a na o2 wont fix a fi setup u should stop now

 

my thoughts exactly. you should probably have a small grasp on how an engine works before you decide to be gangsta and install a turbo kit

 

okay just so ya know I am a mechanic and so is my dad and both him and one of his employees who have been mechanics all their lives thought that the o2 sensor would correct the a/f mixture because although they are extremely good at what they do, neither has had much experience with turbos. anyway just wanted to know that I wasn't dumb I have rebuilt many engines.

 

Just gotta preface this by saying I don't know a thing about hondas, so I may be off, but....

On top of what was explained above, your stock injectors are sized for your motors max airflow from the factory for the most part. They may have a liitle cushion room but if you start boosting an NA motor your injectors will be maxing out and leaning your AFR very quickly. For example on my car, 12psi stock, 14.5psi max before the injectors are actually around 130% injector duty cycle, and will not supply enough fuel, it doesn't take much. Any fuel injector upgrade your ECU still thinks the stockers are in, and the larger injectors will be spraying more fuel all around. Chipping the ECU is not good. You need a piggyback or standalone. The piggybacks just take in the airflow signal from the MAF sensor and manipulate the output, tricking the ECU into thinking there is less airflow, therefore, the injectors will not be dumping fuel. I'm sure there are cheap easy to use piggybacks out there for your car. I would also recommend a wideband 02 sensor be installed so you know exactly what your AFR is. If you are reading the stock sensors and think you are getting an accurate reading, no, not really. google 02 sensor "open loop" or "closed loop" and read up. Widebands will give you an accurate reading whether at idle, cruise, or wide open throttle.

 

Again, don't know a thing about Hondas, but depending on how much extra fuel is consumed, the stock fuel pump may need upgraded, or hotwired if there is a resister in the circuit, or both.

 

first picture is your oil drain
second picture is your coolant feed/return
third picture is your oil feed
fourth picture is your coolant feed/return

you can interchange the coolant inlet/outlet pick one for the inlet and use the other for the outlet. most people tap off there heater core hoses.

 

Yup, picture number 3 are oil feed and pic number 1 are for oil drain, if you want to stay cheap you can save some money and use that turbo BOV in picture number 2.

And as a hint... put a oil restrictor in the oil feed line for that turbo