strength of stock honda internals
09-02-2005, 02:09 AM
#1
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 53
strength of stock honda internals
shooting for 350hp on a jdm b20a, closed deck aluminum block. will be tuned obd1 and uberdtata by a pro or not me cause im not. Using a WB02. Im wondering in all things being equal would a stock rod, shotpeened hold up assuming it doesnt detonate or is it just best to get aftermarket.
Can you relseeve a closed deck and is it worth oringing for 350 hp. Looking at using a T3 turbo similar tot the gt28 rs if I can find the trims ratios. Anyone know. I want a standard t3 mount lower boost spool but pull to about 7k max. Like i said 350 at the wheels is my goal. Thanks Mike Oh and Ive search and been reading alot butt heres just too much **** distracting me, its great
Can you relseeve a closed deck and is it worth oringing for 350 hp. Looking at using a T3 turbo similar tot the gt28 rs if I can find the trims ratios. Anyone know. I want a standard t3 mount lower boost spool but pull to about 7k max. Like i said 350 at the wheels is my goal. Thanks Mike Oh and Ive search and been reading alot butt heres just too much **** distracting me, its great
09-02-2005, 09:28 AM
#3
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 0
Re: strength of stock honda internals
You should just shot peen your **** for all the good its going to do you, and to only rev it to 7000 isn't going to get you 350 even at 30psi of boost. You need pistons, rods and I thought b20a were open deck 
09-02-2005, 01:46 PM
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: strength of stock honda internals
Awesome! Two tard posts of zero worth! Ignore them! Speed Phreak made 340 whp off 12 psi on a 2.0 liter LS at 7000 rpms, with smaller valves and smaller ports than B20A.
B21A1 or B20A3/5? I think the A3 is USDM and A5 is JDM, but it's been a minute.
Intake valves are 2mm o/s compared to LS and exhausts are .25 mm o/s. Nice straight shot on the intake ports into the combustion chamber.
If you are trying to stuff this into a Civic/Integra, give up. Engine hangs at a different angle, you WILL have problem with oil pickup tube not being fully immersed in oil during some cornering/accleration/braking situations. Unless you feel like fabricating oil pickup and oil pan w/ baffles.
Your Prelude distributor is already OBD1 compliant, and if it' 90-91 Si you even have OBD1 ECU plugs - insert 92-95 Civic/Integra ECU and go pls kthx.
Prepare to butcher or fab from the ground up your front motor mount bracket.
Closed deck is a non-issue, cylinder shift only happens during detonation with open deck blocks - I have never broken apart a Piglude B20A block before but I'm going to ASSume the sleeves are the same as D/B-series and *fragile* with the block cast around them. Check the block filling thread in the tech section, I'd do it midway up the bore leaving coolant space at the bottom of the passage and between the top of the epoxy and the closed deck.
I have a set of stock rods/pistons at home, rod is comparable to LS in sizing/design. Has the wierd H-series 22mm wristpin. I believe the rods are same dimensions as H23, if not the same exact piece.
As with all Honduhs, I'm pretty sure stock rods and pistons are just fine - until you detonate. I'm going to ASSume knock limit is the same as LS at 350-380 whp, but tossing in a set of mild NA cams with valvetrain and upping revlimit a touch will likely raise that. Make sure you're running a good sized turbo, T3/T04E hybrid, as the usual junkyard stuff will strangle the heat trying to exit the engine through the exhaust and lower your knock limit a LOT. If you have to go junkyard, HX35 or HY35 is for you.
B21A1 or B20A3/5? I think the A3 is USDM and A5 is JDM, but it's been a minute.
Intake valves are 2mm o/s compared to LS and exhausts are .25 mm o/s. Nice straight shot on the intake ports into the combustion chamber.
If you are trying to stuff this into a Civic/Integra, give up. Engine hangs at a different angle, you WILL have problem with oil pickup tube not being fully immersed in oil during some cornering/accleration/braking situations. Unless you feel like fabricating oil pickup and oil pan w/ baffles.
Your Prelude distributor is already OBD1 compliant, and if it' 90-91 Si you even have OBD1 ECU plugs - insert 92-95 Civic/Integra ECU and go pls kthx.
Prepare to butcher or fab from the ground up your front motor mount bracket.
Closed deck is a non-issue, cylinder shift only happens during detonation with open deck blocks - I have never broken apart a Piglude B20A block before but I'm going to ASSume the sleeves are the same as D/B-series and *fragile* with the block cast around them. Check the block filling thread in the tech section, I'd do it midway up the bore leaving coolant space at the bottom of the passage and between the top of the epoxy and the closed deck.
I have a set of stock rods/pistons at home, rod is comparable to LS in sizing/design. Has the wierd H-series 22mm wristpin. I believe the rods are same dimensions as H23, if not the same exact piece.
As with all Honduhs, I'm pretty sure stock rods and pistons are just fine - until you detonate. I'm going to ASSume knock limit is the same as LS at 350-380 whp, but tossing in a set of mild NA cams with valvetrain and upping revlimit a touch will likely raise that. Make sure you're running a good sized turbo, T3/T04E hybrid, as the usual junkyard stuff will strangle the heat trying to exit the engine through the exhaust and lower your knock limit a LOT. If you have to go junkyard, HX35 or HY35 is for you.
09-02-2005, 07:52 PM
#8
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,828
Re: strength of stock honda internals
Uhmmm i've seen a few 400 whp stock block B18's on HT and Jeff Evans has his stock block GSR running 360 whp and now 390whp..and he has been running it for more then a year now since he rebuild it.
09-02-2005, 10:15 PM
#9
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 0
Re: strength of stock honda internals
ya one guy did it and it lasted a month 
bottom line.
stock honda motor = blows up
pistons will break first even w/ a good tune. they are not designed for that kind of cylinder pressure bottom line.
do you want to make 350whp for a little while maybe one time? or make it for a long time.
no no, i take it all back. go do it... it'll last forever trust me
bottom line.
stock honda motor = blows up
pistons will break first even w/ a good tune. they are not designed for that kind of cylinder pressure bottom line.
do you want to make 350whp for a little while maybe one time? or make it for a long time.
no no, i take it all back. go do it... it'll last forever trust me
09-02-2005, 10:27 PM
#10
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 0
Re: strength of stock honda internals
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Awesome! Two tard posts of zero worth! Ignore them! Speed Phreak made 340 whp off 12 psi on a 2.0 liter LS at 7000 rpms, with smaller valves and smaller ports than B20A.
B21A1 or B20A3/5? I think the A3 is USDM and A5 is JDM, but it's been a minute.
Intake valves are 2mm o/s compared to LS and exhausts are .25 mm o/s. Nice straight shot on the intake ports into the combustion chamber.
If you are trying to stuff this into a Civic/Integra, give up. Engine hangs at a different angle, you WILL have problem with oil pickup tube not being fully immersed in oil during some cornering/accleration/braking situations. Unless you feel like fabricating oil pickup and oil pan w/ baffles.
Your Prelude distributor is already OBD1 compliant, and if it' 90-91 Si you even have OBD1 ECU plugs - insert 92-95 Civic/Integra ECU and go pls kthx.
Prepare to butcher or fab from the ground up your front motor mount bracket.
Closed deck is a non-issue, cylinder shift only happens during detonation with open deck blocks - I have never broken apart a Piglude B20A block before but I'm going to ASSume the sleeves are the same as D/B-series and *fragile* with the block cast around them. Check the block filling thread in the tech section, I'd do it midway up the bore leaving coolant space at the bottom of the passage and between the top of the epoxy and the closed deck.
I have a set of stock rods/pistons at home, rod is comparable to LS in sizing/design. Has the wierd H-series 22mm wristpin. I believe the rods are same dimensions as H23, if not the same exact piece.
As with all Honduhs, I'm pretty sure stock rods and pistons are just fine - until you detonate. I'm going to ASSume knock limit is the same as LS at 350-380 whp, but tossing in a set of mild NA cams with valvetrain and upping revlimit a touch will likely raise that. Make sure you're running a good sized turbo, T3/T04E hybrid, as the usual junkyard stuff will strangle the heat trying to exit the engine through the exhaust and lower your knock limit a LOT. If you have to go junkyard, HX35 or HY35 is for you.
B21A1 or B20A3/5? I think the A3 is USDM and A5 is JDM, but it's been a minute.
Intake valves are 2mm o/s compared to LS and exhausts are .25 mm o/s. Nice straight shot on the intake ports into the combustion chamber.
If you are trying to stuff this into a Civic/Integra, give up. Engine hangs at a different angle, you WILL have problem with oil pickup tube not being fully immersed in oil during some cornering/accleration/braking situations. Unless you feel like fabricating oil pickup and oil pan w/ baffles.
Your Prelude distributor is already OBD1 compliant, and if it' 90-91 Si you even have OBD1 ECU plugs - insert 92-95 Civic/Integra ECU and go pls kthx.
Prepare to butcher or fab from the ground up your front motor mount bracket.
Closed deck is a non-issue, cylinder shift only happens during detonation with open deck blocks - I have never broken apart a Piglude B20A block before but I'm going to ASSume the sleeves are the same as D/B-series and *fragile* with the block cast around them. Check the block filling thread in the tech section, I'd do it midway up the bore leaving coolant space at the bottom of the passage and between the top of the epoxy and the closed deck.
I have a set of stock rods/pistons at home, rod is comparable to LS in sizing/design. Has the wierd H-series 22mm wristpin. I believe the rods are same dimensions as H23, if not the same exact piece.
As with all Honduhs, I'm pretty sure stock rods and pistons are just fine - until you detonate. I'm going to ASSume knock limit is the same as LS at 350-380 whp, but tossing in a set of mild NA cams with valvetrain and upping revlimit a touch will likely raise that. Make sure you're running a good sized turbo, T3/T04E hybrid, as the usual junkyard stuff will strangle the heat trying to exit the engine through the exhaust and lower your knock limit a LOT. If you have to go junkyard, HX35 or HY35 is for you.
wow you asume alot in there
