Smoke and boost
I recently have smoke when releasing the gas pedal. After research I heard that this is a valveseal problem.
Can I safely boost without replacing the seals? The car is currently not boosted. But I want it to be. Its a Honda B16A2 engine with about 100k's on it. I wont be boosting above 7psi. |
Re:Smoke and boost
shouldnt have any effect on boosting, but its somethig you want to get fixed
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Re:Smoke and boost
Originally Posted by ghettoturbo
shouldnt have any effect on boosting, but its somethig you want to get fixed
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Re:Smoke and boost
personally i would fix it first..blowing blue smoke never looks cool ;)
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Re:Smoke and boost
Originally Posted by ghettoturbo
personally i would fix it first..blowing blue smoke never looks cool ;)
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Re:Smoke and boost
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Re:Smoke and boost
Whats sad.. I've used that ---- a few times, haha
works pretty good |
Re:Smoke and boost
blowin blue smoke is the coolest, just ask whoever is behind me when my turbo spools :/
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Re:Smoke and boost
does your car smoke on startup in the morning? Do you still have the catalytic converter installed?
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Re:Smoke and boost
Originally Posted by quadnie
does your car smoke on startup in the morning?
Originally Posted by quadnie
Do you still have the catalytic converter installed?
Anyways, my compression test came out low for cyl #3 160psi while the rest was 200psi. I think I have a bent valve. I got an appointment for the 30th of August at the Honda dealer for a leakdown test. |
Re:Smoke and boost
I doubt you have a bent valve.. you would hear it. Plus how did it just bend? Timing belt give out on u?
You could possibly have a cracked valve or just a blown valve seal on number 3. Go ahead and perform the compression test again and then squirt some oil down number 3 to see if the compression jumps back up. Basic functions of a compression test.. will tell you if the seals are bad or if it's part of the valve train. -ry |
Re:Smoke and boost
Originally Posted by quadnie
I doubt you have a bent valve.. you would hear it. Plus how did it just bend? Timing belt give out on u?
You could possibly have a cracked valve or just a blown valve seal on number 3. Go ahead and perform the compression test again and then squirt some oil down number 3 to see if the compression jumps back up. Basic functions of a compression test.. will tell you if the seals are bad or if it's part of the valve train. -ry |
Re:Smoke and boost
I would assume that you are executing the compression check properly and following the basic "rules". If you do have a bad ring then adding oil the compression will slowly jump up. There are many variables involved in performing the check.. certain ways the meter acts will mean certain things are wrong with the motor. Check your chiltons/haynes manual for info on what to expect.
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Re:Smoke and boost
Originally Posted by quadnie
I would assume that you are executing the compression check properly and following the basic "rules". If you do have a bad ring then adding oil the compression will slowly jump up. There are many variables involved in performing the check.. certain ways the meter acts will mean certain things are wrong with the motor. Check your chiltons/haynes manual for info on what to expect.
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Re:Smoke and boost
well they kinda followed all the rules.. they could have made your life easier by telling you a few steps to make this a one person job. Example: Block open the throttle with a screwdriver instead of having someone floor the pedal. Use a damn remote starter, well worth the $10 it costs at the local parts store.. I love my remote starter and use it all the time.
They didn't go into any detail as to how the gauge will react to certain things wrong with the motor. Like if it pumps up good then starts to fade down then it's usually the seals.. or if it's very slow to start pumping up then it's the rings. Like I said, go pick up a chiltons/haynes manual (for any car) and read what they have to say about compression testing. If you can't do that then I will search around here for a manual and type in what they suggest for compression testing later today. |
Re:Smoke and boost
Originally Posted by quadnie
well they kinda followed all the rules.. they could have made your life easier by telling you a few steps to make this a one person job. Example: Block open the throttle with a screwdriver instead of having someone floor the pedal. Use a damn remote starter, well worth the $10 it costs at the local parts store.. I love my remote starter and use it all the time.
They didn't go into any detail as to how the gauge will react to certain things wrong with the motor. Like if it pumps up good then starts to fade down then it's usually the seals.. or if it's very slow to start pumping up then it's the rings. Like I said, go pick up a chiltons/haynes manual (for any car) and read what they have to say about compression testing. If you can't do that then I will search around here for a manual and type in what they suggest for compression testing later today. Thank you. |
Re:Smoke and boost
I have to dig up a manual, I'll do it later for you.. try searching around google for how to perform a compression check and it may have all the specifics in it.
For some reason I think I've already typed it all out in the past, maybe I'll dig thru my 3000 posts to see when I talked about it. |
Re:Smoke and boost
Thank you
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Re:Smoke and boost
I have not forgot out you, I'll get to finding the haynes manual tomorrow.. got too busy today.
EDIT: I'll get to it in the evening of today.. damn days/nights are all mixed up when you don't sleep :-[ |
Re:Smoke and boost
The new day in my country already started a while ago. Couldn't wait so I went busy again.
What I have tried: First I tested the compression again of nr #3 and some other random cyl to check if nothing is wrong with the tester. Ok #3 is still 160psi I removed the valvecover and pour some oil on the intake valves of #3. Put the valvecover back on. #3 is Now 170psi! A bump of 10psi! Removed the valvecover again. This time I pour oil on the exhaust valves. Put the valvecover back on. #3 is stil 170psi I figured to check the pistonrings if I would pour some oil on the piston thru the sparkplug hole. #3 is now 270psi! Can't be right So I waited a couple of minutes and it was still 270psi Ran engine for a couple of minutes. Lots and lots of smoke ofcourse. I ran the engine untill no smoke came out when running stationairy. #3 is now 195psi I made the car drive ready. And drove it for 10miles. Did the compression test again. Back at 160psi What do you think? Intake valves or valveseals of the intake are leaking? |
Re:Smoke and boost
The pouring of the oil in the valve seals doesn't really matter IMO. You figure that the oil from the valve cover area should be getting everywhere anyways, I don't see how pouring more would make a difference ???
Pouring the oil in the firing chamber thru the spark plug hole is what I was getting at. That's strange that it jumped up that high. Tell me something; When you first poured the oil and started the compression rotation did it creep up to 270 slowly or was it right there after a few cranks of that piston (compression stroke)? You did follow all the other specifics by that one article right? From the current symptons it sounds like a weak ring already. Anyone else care to share opinions? |
Re:Smoke and boost
It what right there after the first 2 cranks.
1st crank was 260, 2nd 270 and it stayed there. But my engine should not do 270psi, should it? Realy weird! I hate not knowing whats wrong with my engine! :( |
Re:Smoke and boost
How much oil did you exactly pour into the firing chamber? Sounds like you drowned it. It should have only required a couple squirts, I could see something really really high if you already had high compression and dabbed too much oil.
Try the experiment again with like half an ounce of oil. You only need enough to settle around the rings and re-create that seal that they are missing. |
Re:Smoke and boost
Originally Posted by quadnie
How much oil did you exactly pour into the firing chamber? Sounds like you drowned it. It should have only required a couple squirts, I could see something really really high if you already had high compression and dabbed too much oil.
Try the experiment again with like half an ounce of oil. You only need enough to settle around the rings and re-create that seal that they are missing. |
Re:Smoke and boost
Sounded like you completely filled the chamber up. I'll try and locate the manual tonight for you if I don't have to run out and go play doctor with another 2g accord tonight ::)
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Re:Smoke and boost
time for new rings
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Re:Smoke and boost
Originally Posted by sohcrxsi
time for new rings
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Re:Smoke and boost
if he wants it to stop smoking, then i think he needs new rings
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Re:Smoke and boost
I know, it's just a lot of work.. consider the cost of putting a court of oil in XXX amount of miles. As long as it's not getting much worse then hopefully he can ride with it until it's convenient for him to replace it.
Then again boost will only make things worse :( |
Re:Smoke and boost
maybe find another long block, boost the one you have at like 15psi until it blows, and then replace the engine. that would be easier than changing the rings. d-series, right>?
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Re:Smoke and boost
Originally Posted by sohcrxsi
maybe find another long block, boost the one you have at like 15psi until it blows, and then replace the engine. that would be easier than changing the rings. d-series, right>?
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Re:Smoke and boost
Some idea I have to start boosting safe is to buy a b16 longblock of hmotors online. That will cost $900 then sell parts of my old block to get some money back.
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Re:Smoke and boost
I prefer b18.. but that's just me.
Are you able to rebuild a motor yourself? |
Re:Smoke and boost
Originally Posted by quadnie
I prefer b18.. but that's just me.
Are you able to rebuild a motor yourself? |
Re:Smoke and boost
Have you thought about just finding a decent LS shortbock then doing the LS-VTEC conversion? I'm sure you would be able to find a mildly built LS shortblock someplace..
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Re:Smoke and boost
I thought I just play safe and keep with the same block. I have no knowledge about the LS. I have to look into that.
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Re:Smoke and boost
I'm just trying to figure out the cheapest way for you to get around it all.. maybe get something that isn't going to fail down the road like your current setup. Look into it and let us know what you think ;)
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Re:Smoke and boost
I will. Thanks for the advise
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Re:Smoke and boost
LS/VTEC A turbocharged LS/VTEC is a very potent motor. However it is also the hardest to build so that it runs reliably. The LS/VTEC gives the best that the LS and VTEC motors have to offer, the high horsepower from the VTEC and the high torque of the LS. By using the LS block and a B16 head (with a stock bottom end) a compression ratio close to 9.0:1 is attained. If rebuilding the motor, the block can be resleeved with aftermarket sleeves and bored to 84mm resulting in 2.0 liters of displacement. A reliable LS/VTEC motor is very difficult to build, as such it should only be attempted by an engine builder experienced with building LS/VTEC motors. Since building a good LS/VTEC motor is such an art, engine builders charge a premium for their services. Also keep in mind that the bottom end of a LS motor was not designed to rev up to the level where the VTEC motors are meant to shine. Sorry I posted 3 time.... I wanted to edit but pressed the wrong button! Sorry! |
Re:Smoke and boost
All good, I cleaned up the other posts for you.
I'm not telling you to assemble the motor yourself or sleeve it or anything.. I'm just suggesting that you buy a built bottom end then throw your B16 head on it. You don't have to sleeve it but it helps for high boost levels. Many people run LS Vtecs, you just have to limit the revs to what the bottom end normally takes, you can't go crazy and try and bring it to B16 revs. What OBD is your car? |
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