I have a question regarding the AFM Trick, which involves rotating the gear in the AFM a few clicks creating a lean condition. Im planning on boosting a 7rib 16valve TVIS 4AGE engine. Just a low to medium boost application kept below 10ps(planning on starting at 5psi)i from turbocharger smaller than a T3 (havent got my hands on a good deal yet). I have 440cc 7MGTE injectors off a Supra that bolt in to replace my tiny 185ccs. Obviously throwing them in without management would drown the little toyota 4 popper in fuel. Using the AFM trick im sure I can get a stable idle again but will I get adequete fuel throughout the powerband? Would I need to increase fuel pressure and replace the stock 1:1 ratio FPR?

Obviously using these mechanical tricks isnt anywhere near a good tune but Im just trying to get a cheap yet solid low boost 4age up and running.

In summary, will the AFM trick get a low boosted 4age with 440ccs injectors in the right ball park for fuel? Will raising the fuel pressure via a FPR be neccessary? And yes I know this isnt a very proffesional way to go about it and a standalone/piggyback is a better choice.

Thank you

 

what is afm :P

 

i assume its a mass air flow meter.

 

Please dont do it that way, if anything use a SAFC to scale back the injectors at idle.
Or for about the same amount of $$$$ order yourself a Megasquirt standalone ecu.
PS My friends and I used to run several boosted corollas by doing the AFM hack back
about 6 years ago but always seem to blow up the motors

 

Yeah AFM is MAF, i guess the toyota kids im around generally call it AFM. Olk ill save up for MS or SAFC. Probably Megasquirt though.

 

AFM = a vane flap air-flow meter. (aka VAFM, just called an AFM. Nothing else goes by AFM but a VAFM)

Do not believe what the 22r-te guy says on his website... It is NOT an extra 2% fuel - per click. All you are really doing, is getting the injectors to max out earlier / later relative to the airflow through the unit.

Going from 185's to 440's PLUS more fuel pressure - you're most likely going to be LEANING the AFM cog to get it to run semi-descently.
Yes... You can do it, the only question is going to be if you can get a good idle, good WOT, AND good part throttle.













You can add fuel that way. The trick is finding a balance between idle, low throttle, and WOT + boost.


You can drill the idle bypass screw plug out so that you can adjust the idle bypass (The amout of air that goes around the vane flap that goes un-metered) - but they are quite sensative.

 

SAFC's suck... Overpriced, don't do ----.
Save more money, buy an SMT-6, and have better tuning, more inputs, outputs & the ability to tune ignition timing & auxillary stuff.

 

If im willing to learn how to work with Megasquirt and dont mind soldering it up I dont see how these piggybacks can compare. Alot of them have trouble with the 1988 ECU because at WO throttle it relies on the TPS running on a programmed fuel map. It cuts out other sensors signals that the piggyback alters.
Some people have got these tow ork but alot have trouble. Its about the same price as an unassmembled MS with some of the other goodies needed.

Plus I can adjust all sorts of other thing such as the TVIS engagement point, and whatever I want to add into the ECU.

 

It shouldn't be. Toyota OBD-I is historically lienient to piggybacks.
Just flip the VTA signal @ WOT to a signal right at the crossover point if that ECU actually has that problem. (75-80% WOT generally the crossover with toyota)

 

safcs don't suck people that don't use them right suck