13lude

I have a 93 turbo lude that smokes somthin fierce until the car is warm . I am pretty sure the seals are bad because of too much oil pressure when the car is cold. What can I do to restrict oil without changing my -4 oil feed line?Thanks

shortyz

what size is your drain?

does it go down, cant be horizontal.

88crxSi

you know what shortyz...

I am beginning to think that the gravity drain line business is just not true for all cars.

I was working on a d16z6 yesterday where the oil drain tube goes down and then back up, then horizontal to the oil pan.

We were worried that it was not getting the oil out. SO we pulled it off the pan and held it in the same spot where it would be connected. Fired the car up and oil came flying out!

My thougts are that. If the feed line is pressurized then it still will drain because there is pressure behind it.

The oil will flow where there is the least amount of ristriction. and if thats the drain line then thats where it goes..

This might have been a freak case where its ok with the length and angles used on the drain line i saw.

DOHCZCEF9

Dude I asked this same question about two/three weeks ago and never really got a straight answer just that I know you can buy restrictors from summit racing. I'm going to be using -3 line on mine cause I saw how big -4 was.

13lude

My oil drain is -10 and goes straight down . The reason I think I need a restrictor is because the only time it smokes is when it is cold , once it is warm it will not smoke at all.

XDEep

doesnt a smaller line mean more pressure then? albeit less flow.

as far as the oil return, why dont people consider your plumbing under the sink?

13lude

I read on HT that a couple of guys were having the same type of problem and the oil restrictor was the answer . If anyone knows what might be causing this I am open to suggestions. Thanks

DOHCZCEF9

Hey just buy a restrictor with a adjustable valve from summit I think they're like $50 at the most if that. It looks just like a butterfly valve adjust the valve to waht ever works best just as long as it's not starving the turbo and try to do it as far away from the block as possible. If you connect it at the block it'll restrict what comes out of the block not the line. Try it and see what happens. I know t's tough to spend money on things if your not sure but also remember if you wanna play you're gonna have to pay sooner or later.

13lude

Thanks for all the help guys. I got 3 an fittings from summit , -3 to -4 reducer , -3 to 1/8 npt and -3 swivel coupling . This will reduce me down to -3 an at the turbo , all for just over 10 bucks! I have part #'s if you guys need them.

shortyz

ok first u need to know what the inside of a turbo looks like. (the oil housing).



look where the oil is pushed in, it is pushed into the bearing housings at 30-60psi. now the oil lubricates the shaft and gravity starts to take over, u cant have pressure after the bearings because the drain goes to the oil pan, and there is air in this line.

i really suck at explaning ill give an example/

if you crimp your garden hose it builds up pressure, fast because its a closed system with a restriction. (the turbo bearings are this restriction) Now when u un-crimp the hose the water coming out the end has 0 pressure because it cant pressurize the atmosphere. (---- did that make sense?)

basically lookit your return hole. theres a big space in there. pressure is lost once the oil leaves the bearing because below the turbo is an open air system (your oil pan and hose)


BLKAH!!!!!!