Minor Threat

Why sleeve it and then throw in a gay block guard?

What the ---- does PSI have to do with anything? Sure, it's possible, not with the stock MAP sensor but whatever that's not important.

I think the fact that a lot of factory boosted rides run sub 9:1 compression would lead me to pick the 8.4:1, but I havn't done enough reading on it yet.

Some people don't like SRPs, Tuner toys rods are same quality as Eagle stuffs.

If you're looking for 500whp I think you've got a lot more thinking to do than just deciding which set of rods and pistons you're going to run.

If it were me, I wouldn't bother ------- around with sleeving the block or running a guard. Pistons and rods, and plan the rest of your system out well.

bumblezc

I don't even know if it's possible to Sleeve and Block Guard without making a custom block guard. The overall diameter of the sleeves is usually bigger, not allowing you to slip in a block guard in the water jackets!! If you want sleeves. you'll pay for it, and it's not cheap. IMO Block Guard are crap. Best would be closed Deck Sleeves.

Running sub- 9:1 CR is for -----s who don't know how to tune or Real Cars running Helacious Amounts of boost. Like 29+psi. You will need the extra psi to make up for the lost power from CRs Stick it around 9.1:1 and you'll get a nice spool time, and yet a safe enough motor with a good tune. Look how many B16s and B18s ae livig making 300whp stock at about 10.5:1CR. It's all in the tune!

Most Factory Boosted cars run low CR to cover te warrenty asses because they know that the customer is oing to jack the boost up, which the car isn't tuned for. If the car is at 8.5:1 or less, not too much risk, if it's at 9.1:1 or slightly higher, raising boost without re-tuning mean alot of warrenty claims that they would turn down anyways!!!!

Minor Threat

See, I don't buy the lost power/spool time crap. Of everything I've read, the people who actually run the lower compression setups don't have a problem with them.

I'd much rather drop a point in compression, jack the timing right before boost and run a few more pounds if that's what it takes to hit my power goal.

I think low factory CR is due to shitty gas, and shitty drivers. I was just illustrating the point that most factory boosted cars can hit some pretty nice numbers stock blocked, with minimal to no tuning.

I can't decided whether to keep my ZC stock, or have a spare set of A6 pistons dropped in. I'm going to be running water injection, so I'll probably skip the piston swapping, but I'd like to do it just to have some personal experience with a low compression car.

bumblezc

When I was starting the parts collecting for my DOHC ZC Build I was contimplating 8.1:1 CR. EVERY and I mean EVERY Person I asked on here and other places say that with the ZC(becuase that what I was asking about) and on some older motors, dropped from 9.5:1 or higher down to Low 8:1 CRs and said they wished they kept the stock CR area, and that some of them even wish they kept the stock piston setup. They hated the feeling of the lower CR.

totalblowup

as for the cr. i would go with 9.0.1- 9.2.1 nice spool time and not laggy as hell
eagle rods endyn pistons the rollerwave ones
remember that head work is very important when you have a shity flowing b18b head
get it ported and polished nice 5 angle valve job ,and get the valves back cut 30* after the first 45* trust me this helps out alot on Ls heads
get that block sleeved dart or earl its your choice im getting a dart block

it goes like this you want to play you got to pay
im going to dump around 4 grand into my next motor how much you spend and how many short cuts you take is up to you

NBLKID

FastLS

If you have to ask some major questions(ie. Is this compression good for what I'm looking at?), you might want to do a lot of research. 450 HP is a lot to pull from a B18 4cyl, especially without droping a wad of cash into it. Sleeves are going to be quite expensive, and if you're going the extra mile you might as well upgrade the rods and pistons. Email the rod & piston companies and ask the rated HP or the items you're buying. They might not be rated that high.

DeleriouS

I can get darton sleeves for around $100 a piece, and still no one has told me why the srp pistons are so bad. I think i am going to go with 9:1 CR with a thick headgasket to drop it a litttle. I mean, if i have new pistons, rods, sleeves, it should be able to withstand 9:1 with some good boost.

bumblezc

Add about 5-700 for machining the block for the sleeves. Around here the average price for sleeving a olck is 900 total.

SRPs aren't bad. They are not great Race Piston, but on a mid-level DD they are fine. That's why I'm going to use them.