omniscient

oh ok i get what he was saying now. I've never really thought about that before. I hope I made the right choice. On one of my old Honda builds one of my Garrett turbos was smoking pretty badly and it cleared up once I put a restrictor in. So ever since I've run restrictors unless the turbo comes with some kind of restrictor pre-installed.

Holsquirt.

dude I run restrictors on all turbos, i have a similar holsut strapped to my bimmer and its doin great with the restrictor.

omniscient

I need to do something about this engine.. It's got 170k on it and everything ------' leaks from the valve cover to the timing cover. I'm lazy and I'm thinking of picking up a lower mileage engine but it still has 20+year old seals in it. If I build an engine it would just be a rebuild with oem parts and new bearings, rings, etc.

I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on this car. It's just holding me over until I can find a decently priced 5 speed sc300.

Holsquirt.

yea dude im in the same boat except a M50tu from a jy = 350-500$, OR do arpstuds + MLS = 450$ :1

to do stock rings, stock bolts and HG = 400$ or so so who knows if its worth it

omniscient

I was on the ARP site looking for headstuds but I couldn't find any for the M20 it just had the M50, the motors from the 2002's, and mini coopers.

WTF

you checked out south bend clutches? i think they have a line for bmws

i was looking into them before i fucked up my m50 at 15psi

Holsquirt.

if you measure your factory bolts (14$ for m50's) you can send specs to arp and have them give it a shot
also, when you bust your m20 look into and m50 =)

omniscient

Nah, I've never heard of south bend. I'll check them out. One of my friends showed me clutchnet.com. The site is pretty cool and they have clutch manufacturing videos. People seem to like them. There's also two places I know of in CT that do custom clutches.

As for the head studs I see a lot of people using metric blues studs. I've never heard of them before..

And I'm already starting to look at m50 swaps. Is VANOS worth the extra money? 92-early 93 non-vanos motors are pretty cheap. I've also been reading forums about the swap but I'm not really getting anywhere because 90% of the performance community makes things a lot harder than they need to be.

Tom-Guy

Clutchnet has a huge pedal effort.

I wholeheartedly recommend ClutchMasters.

Holsquirt.

dude NV motor = more stout pistons rods and crank
vanos motor = lighter rotating assembly, MUCH lighter valve train, better flowing head
either one wins, if you want to rev to ~7600+ on a stock head and have an essentially forged factory bottom end go NV, and their cheaper

if you want a slightly more advanced, rev happy to a redline of 7000rpm and no further, arguably stouter and fresher motor, go m50tu

cant lose either way, vanos itself is garbage IMO and most will agree. its failure or success wont affect you much though.