Tom-Guy

What design injector have you been dealing with? The pintle types are open against fuel pressure.

Inquisition

I've never looked at how fuel injectors actually opened. I just assumed, and evidently assumed incorrectly.

Tom-Guy

Actually, I don't see a reason they can't open the other direction. Whether or not that design is used I dunno.

HiProfile

In that case JD, could you tell me exactly why going from OEM (new) headbolts to ARP's - w/o any change in timing - results in eliminating headlift? As stated, I pulled quite a bit of timing (how's trying a range from 17* all the way down to 8* at 10psi) and it still quirted. With your grand knowledge, I'm curious roughly how much more I should pull? I ask that because I can't see how running less than what I tried could make a 'local legend', unless you've found some magical step retard number above 2*/psi that doesn't make it feel like its missing a piston or two... As hilarious as your flaming is, I'm sure there's quite a few of us 'incapible tuners' who would love to be enlightened.

I'm also curious how far stretched a fastener has to be before its lost its tensioning ability? 50thou per thread? 1/2" overall?? ARP recommends .0055-.0077 for hondas rod bolts, so I can't fathom how a fastener 2x in diameter needs 10x the stretch (your visible stretch amount) to finally become useless. I'd prefer numbers and technical data as opposed to your usual bullshitting.

Tom-Guy

When did this new OEM headbolt fantasy happen? Last version of your story you reused a headgasket and reused OEM headbolts. On a block with a dead oil pump. Once you breach the headgasket from detonation/bore shift it's as good as dead. You can sometimes reel timing in and it holds pretty well for a while, but within a couple hundred to a couple thousand it's belly up.

My grand knowledge told you that basing your tuning methods on a defective pile of ---- with a history of abuse and you reusing already compromised components in no way shape or form reflects how an engine that isn't totally fucked up will respond. Like it or not there are hundreds of people on HMT, HT, TD16, ad nauseam, who have nothing to do with me, who have fed bone stock Z6 more than 11 psi with no headgasket issues--> FACT. Your confident suppositions otherwise are a result of you being a stupid ------- idiot with a non-functioning cerebellum.


Look, I can't help that you are a festering felch monkey who lacks the basic reading comprehension of a second grade schoolchild. My stretched headbolt comment was to delineate how stupid I thought you were - it was a sarcastic *** comment delivered after my pointing out you reused a headgasket, which is only slightly less stupid than expecting to blow burning combustion gasses past the headgasket and have the headgasket work correctly afterward, when you finally decide to get around to addressing your timing problems, after you've toasted the headgasket. Newsflash - you toasted the ------- headgasket. I can not state that enough.

My usual bullshitting, huh?

I have two cars that spend ever week at Shadyside Dragway in Boilling Springs, NC, one of which clocked over 200 passes this past summer, used two sets of 24.5X9X13 slicks, best of 7.01@107.8 first pass off the trailer after I tuned it with clutch slip when it shifted into 3rd, but the engine (*ahem* - tune) is bulletproof and the car runs flawlessly. I've made a touch over 400 whp off a DIY log manifold, sprayed nitrous on top of it, and posted the videos of the car in question stripping a GSXR 750 to this forum. I have video of a full body DC chassis with leather, sunroof, PW, PDL, tilt, cruise, etc, that I did the finish assembly and tuning on, loaded down with three grown men and a tank full of pumpgas, pulling R6 from a roll off single digit boost - welcome to T67s and 9700 rpms.

There are thousands of tech posts and dozens of writeups by me on HT, HMT, pgmfi, Hondaswap, Hybrid, etc, and just because I didn't repeat elementary and completely basic - the theoretical equivalent of ------- two plus two - concepts for your lazy, non-searching, disinterested in the work involved in learning any real amount of knowledge, ****** *** edification you decide I'm bullshitting? Well, Mister Nobody Knows You, Mister Nobody's Ever Seen Anything You've Built Or Tuned, who the ---- are you? What have you done to have the right to call me out?

Oh, right, you're the guy who doesn't have a firm grasp of how an FMU works, or how to use a plain jane ROM editor much less a full fledged standalone that requires a little more configuration than toggling open/closed loop and making sure whether or not the VTEC enable box is checked. I'd tell you to get fisted, but frankly you probably wouldn't feel it since I just reamed you with my massive e-*****.

Bitch.

gen4acclude

impedence

Slo_crx1

Lucas style injectors ftw

PoweredT3A6

Seriously, I think HiProfile can keep up with you BIG JD. He knows what he is talking about, and all of his ---- is in real life numbers and technical data. I hate when people come on here talking a bunch of ----, telling other people "that's the wrong way" or "you can't do it like that or it'll blow the ---- up". Everyone in this ------- place is a damned genius, but most of these stupid ----- bitches can't even spell and have horrible grammar. ------- horrible, look at the responses to this post. WOW, and I don't know who the ---- most of you bitches that say your a big deal are either. I'm on the real scene, SoCal, not some redneck retarded inbreeding Arkansas Mid-west ----, so I see REAL high end ---- and no one here is building it. This is "HOMEMADETURBO.com" not "ONLYONEWAYTODOTHINGS.com" or "GENIUSCONVENTION.com", nobody here is the ------- expert, who the ---- do you think you are? Larry from ENDYNE? That man is a Honda GENIUS, most of the people here are working on ---- in their garages, not sterile ISO9001 ------- labs, so take that ***** out of your ------- and stop pretending that Honda hired you to design their next generation quad turbo system.

Thank You
Come Again

Tom-Guy

Cute, three post shill account.

HiHomosexual logged on earlier today ~ 60 pm EST and had nothing to say to me by way of "real life numbers and technical data." Now:

Name: HiProfile
Posts: 99 (0.146 per day)
Position: 0.5 BAR
Date Registered: March 03, 2005, 12:23:27 PM
Last Active: Today at 020:52 AM

Name: PoweredT3A6
Posts: 13 (0.040 per day)
Position: 0.0 BAR
Date Registered: February 22, 2006, 11:065 PM
Last Active: Today at 020:27 AM

Basically, you're either him on a shill account, or he has nothing by way of "real life numbers and technical data" to refute me with and puts a three post punk who can't post **** up to do his chump work for him.

Fucktard, I am a pgmfi.org moderator and did all the OG beta testing of both original OBD0 and OBD1 flavors of freeware boost code before you got your first snip of -----. I've been on and off in college for the last 16 years, and am a good bit more intelligent than the average smurf. I come here because I passionately love cars, and helping people who want to DIY and to learn because they are more like me than magazine reading ******* who buy high end Brand Name parts so they can get e-handjobs on bandwagon forums such as Honda-Tech. You, on the other hand, are just a goddamn homosexual because despite logging in on shill accounts claiming "real life numbers and technical data" you're coming to a grassroots forum asking basic n00b questions about FMUs and basic function of ROM editors that anyone with "real life numbers and technical data" should know.

I was on Aaron Lail's Mustang dyno, TruDYNOsport in Conover, NC, four days ago with a Benson sleeved Laskey built K20A2 in an '05 EP3, FR top/sidemount manifold with GT42R.




Is that the sort of "REAL high end ----" you see all the time in the real scene, SoCal, which last I checked was land of high crime rates, illegal immigration, ignorance, and rice? How many of these "REAL high end ----" rides have you tuned? Judging by your boy's (your?) inability to afford $22 D-series headgaskets, and your screen name "T3" "A6, " I sorely doubt it.

You want my truthful opinion on that "REAL high end ----" ride above? My shill account, rawr, once said "conspicuous consumption is a sign of immaturity, and nothing more." It's a porky chassis with a poorly designed Hypewagon engine attached to a gearbox that falls apart at stock power levels when lady driven. The intake cam flops around for no discernable reason like a gay man's limp wrist, and to make things worse flops around so slowly it can't even keep up with the cam advance table in until 4th gear at the 300 whp level - which is a ****** and slow power level in a porky chassis. The car has 9700 miles on it, and rides like *** because true to form ALL stock 7th gen Civics come with General Motors inspired McStruts that are blown in under 10K miles. Hyundaidata's K-poop is the saddest sack of kitten ---- I have ever dealt with - there is no tip-in enrichment adjustment, and I suspect that is because it is completely uncontrolled as the stupid thing randomly goes rich or lean of target for a second or so after tip in. The Full-Rice turbo kit is gay; turbo is positioned so that oil drain is compromised and a real air filter can not be fitted. A couple of degrees and a REAL air filter of significant size - one that does not try to suck itself into the turbo at the 350 whp level - could be fitted and you'd only have to trim a little off the underhood support, or shim the hood hinges, to have everything clear (as well as a better initial drop of the oil drain)... but, true to name, Full-Rice HAS TO MAINTAIN an uncut hood for showcar reasons because popped-hood bling cannot be compromised for engineering reasons. At 550whp - Oh, joy! I can not wait! - a CRX with D16, T3, and boost cranked could strip it by a couple cars in every gear.

There is a reason I don't talk much about cars like this that I tune, and why I keep dyno sheets off the internet, or at least with my name off them; the last thing I need is a bunch of magazine reading ******* up in my grill. Your "REAL high end ----" ride cost, including purchase of car, in the $40-50K neighborhood. It will break $50K by the time the various teething problems have been corrected, and I get paid for my time. I've tuned quite a lot of cars that are blisteringly fast, only one of them had a pile of magazine parts on it, Joey is not impressed.


I find it most interesting to note that your "REAL high end ----" looked like plain ole fashioned dogshit next to what got trailered in while it was strapped to the rollers:



That's about $100K worth of high dollar ---- dropped on a Factory Five replica, it is built to make and withstand 1000 whp if it could get traction. Half that amount is suicidal insanity in a 1900 lb chassis with a cutesy rollbar. The guy who owned it rolled up in a brand new Land Rover and enlcosed trailer, and, while nice enough on a social level, blatantly didn't give a ----. I can say I now know exactly what sort of person buys those hideously expensive R302 blocks.

edit: Widmer of Endyn, one "e", can get fisted. I have less use for him than I have for you, little chewtoy. Show me one single car he's built that has been competitive in any racing classification, turned any significant time at a dragstrip; I can match or beat it and I touch the merest fraction of Honduhs out there. All of the big name drag cars in the 8's and 9's have engines built in regular old fashion clean rooms in garages, and not "sterile ISO9001 ------- labs." No one here is impressed by any lies or disinformation he has told you. :1

Slo_crx1

JD owning again...gotta love it. That's why I love my sometimes sullen debates with JD...it forces me to step back and evaluate the information, then do some serious research and testing into what I've found and learned.