Originally Posted by turbof22a
(Post 1289127)
what 600hp d/d do you want.
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Originally Posted by raysekturbo
(Post 1289378)
I used to come on this forum years ago and it was very helpful but young kids like yourself screw it all up .
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Originally Posted by turbof22a
(Post 1289399)
why is your join date sep 2009? every one says that but i know for a fact hotrex,jd,bdvt, and all the other ogs would tear you a new -------. and funny thing is i was here years ago too the only thing ruining it now is how all the new people (i.e. YOU) ask stupid ------- questions and then gets pisssed when people try to help them.
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Originally Posted by bccentaur3
(Post 1288999)
I think shorter runners is the way to go. I mean unless you're doing some full blown out drag racing, no need for long runners.
http://www.full-race.com/articles/Bs...st_writeup.pdf
Originally Posted by bassboy3313
(Post 1289058)
+1 log manifold are the way to go. ramhorn such as obx manifolds are def prone to cracking. log manifolds = bulletproof for the most part.
Originally Posted by raysekturbo
(Post 1289298)
I don't see how a runner length question is stupid when wanting to fab your own manifold instead of buying one for a grand.
Now, to contradict most of what I just said. Headers are pretty easy for turbo cars, as test after test has shown that most like a primary length between 16-24". Between this range, it's motor specific, but every motor tested by Bell in his book "Forced Induction Performance Tuning" liked a header in that range. So his advice was to build them at 16", and re-dyno by adding an inch at a time to find out what your motor likes best. He further said that the differences between a 16" header and a 24" header were largely negligible, unless you are in a restricted class, where every 2 tenths of a horsepower count. So since most of us don't have the time, resources, money, or engine bay space to add and test 8 different header configurations, he said just shoot somewhere in that range, and it will be good enough. I personally went right in the middle, and used 20s. |
I found a top mount thats a/c compatiable but i search around and a ram horn design is the best bet for what car an motor i am building . but if anyone is interested the guy said seven hundred bucks.my length question refered to i didn't want to defeat the purpose of a top mount by making it to short but thanks for the info guys .
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wow, you're an idiot.
did you ever mention what car you are planning on turboing? if you are indeed trying to go 2.0 b series you better sleeve it, but you're not, in fact you don't know ---- about turbos. and 500-600whp in any fwd is just way too ------- much, there aren't many rear drive cars that have 500+whp |
Originally Posted by raysekturbo
(Post 1289639)
I found a top mount thats a/c compatiable but i search around and a ram horn design is the best bet for what car an motor i am building . but if anyone is interested the guy said seven hundred bucks.my length question refered to i didn't want to defeat the purpose of a top mount by making it to short but thanks for the info guys .
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Originally Posted by mr dale
(Post 1289679)
wow, you're an idiot.
did you ever mention what car you are planning on turboing? if you are indeed trying to go 2.0 b series you better sleeve it, but you're not, in fact you don't know ---- about turbos. and 500-600whp in any fwd is just way too ------- much, there aren't many rear drive cars that have 500+whp |
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