Lowering Boost Audi Wastegate.
#11
#13
Re:Lowering Boost Audi Wastegate.
Originally Posted by T3
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#17
Re:Lowering Boost Audi Wastegate.
so heres the wastegate
so basically the stock wastegate is set at 14.5 psi which does us honda guys no good at all. so lets get started.
so take all the little nuts off (carefull when unscrewing the last one there is a spring and itll fly right off)
so now that its apart the fun begins.
below is a picture of the top half of the wastegate removed.
as u can see i have drilled out the metal cap on the very top, you need to do this to gain acess to the adjustement screw.
remove the adjustment cap with an allen wrench. here we see its removed. (wow)
this is the scary part, i did this the ghetto way also.
i took a spade bit for cutting holes in wood, shapened it up a bit and put it in the drill press. you want to grind down the nipple that the adjustment screw threads into. (this is done because if you back off the adjustment screw all the way this only results in about 12.5 psi.) i "machined" the nipple down with my spade bit. (WARNING: using a spade bit is very tricky and can fuckup the threads in an instant, be careful itll move around a lot if not secured) make sure the center of the spade bit isnt eating the threads!!! (i chopped the pointy bit off my spade bit, but this made it even worse lol)
take the nipple down till there is about 1/4" of nipple is left.
here is a pic of it ground down.
if you have access to a milling machine i suggest using that it will make the job got 100x's faster and better.
the point of grinding down that nipple is that the adjustment screw will go way farther, BACK THE SCREW OFF ALL THE WAY, when u re assemble it.
so basically the stock wastegate is set at 14.5 psi which does us honda guys no good at all. so lets get started.
so take all the little nuts off (carefull when unscrewing the last one there is a spring and itll fly right off)
so now that its apart the fun begins.
below is a picture of the top half of the wastegate removed.
as u can see i have drilled out the metal cap on the very top, you need to do this to gain acess to the adjustement screw.
remove the adjustment cap with an allen wrench. here we see its removed. (wow)
this is the scary part, i did this the ghetto way also.
i took a spade bit for cutting holes in wood, shapened it up a bit and put it in the drill press. you want to grind down the nipple that the adjustment screw threads into. (this is done because if you back off the adjustment screw all the way this only results in about 12.5 psi.) i "machined" the nipple down with my spade bit. (WARNING: using a spade bit is very tricky and can fuckup the threads in an instant, be careful itll move around a lot if not secured) make sure the center of the spade bit isnt eating the threads!!! (i chopped the pointy bit off my spade bit, but this made it even worse lol)
take the nipple down till there is about 1/4" of nipple is left.
here is a pic of it ground down.
if you have access to a milling machine i suggest using that it will make the job got 100x's faster and better.
the point of grinding down that nipple is that the adjustment screw will go way farther, BACK THE SCREW OFF ALL THE WAY, when u re assemble it.