Leaving vtec on for track car
Ok.. ive raced my 92 b18b turbo hatch at summit point raceway a couple of times. I have sold it recently and picked up a 92 prelude and put the h22a1 in it. I plan on seting it up for the track and turboing it running about 9-10lbs of boost. My question about vtec. can i just turn it on manually at idle and leave it on when i track the car, just tune the vtec map all the way down to idle. Also im looking at a turbo that can be fully spooled at around 3k rpm and hold to 8k. Im thinking a t3 super 60? The turbo i had on the hatch wasnt spooled till 5500rpm, and i didnt have deal with vtec but i had to deal with lag. witch messed me up.. cause im not exactly a pro yet :) . I would like something with solid power and virtually no lag. I would like to keep vtec so when im just crusing around i still get somewhat descent gas milage, and i didnt feel like putting different cams in and taking off the vtec since i just swapped the h22 into it. What are your opinions about the vtec engagement and turbo? Thanks
Brian |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
I'm not going to try to answer this one!!!
Except that your will loose basically all power down below. Ever dropped VTEC on a b16 or so down to about 4000rpm. Car feels slow as hell until the 5200 or rpm point. There is a reason why it come in that high! |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
there is a reason v tec is turned on and off
how well does a race cam run down low and how does it idle? go to honda web sight and look at the v tec ---- on ther it exsplains everything |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
Hook it to your horn so you can activate it by honking the horn. :1 Or hook it to the brake lights so everytime you hit the brakes, V-Tack engages! :o
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
If you activate VTEC during low rpm low oil pressure, you'll just ---- up your LMAs and send a lot of metal particles throughout your engine.
If you dissassemble the rocker shafts, and fiddle the rocker arms so that the pins are always engaged in the LMA, then you'll be fine, and your VTEC solenoid will be useless. I wouldn't worry about low end, personally. LS boys with cams don't complain, we are hairy chested manly men, all grizzled and ----. *flex* However, none of this explains why locking VTEC is worth the effort... I still think you should do it. Be different! Don't let common sense stop you. |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Don't let common sense stop you.
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
One day, I'll be your stupid quote sig. One day. :8
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
the alternative to all this would be learning to drive....
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
I'm not going to try to answer this one!!! Except that your will loose basically all power down below. Ever dropped VTEC on a b16 or so down to about 4000rpm. Car feels slow as hell until the 5200 or rpm point. There is a reason why it come in that high! there is a reason v tec is turned on and off how well does a race cam run down low and how does it idle? go to honda web sight and look at the v tec ---- on ther it exsplains everything If you activate VTEC during low rpm low oil pressure, you'll just ---- up your LMAs and send a lot of metal particles throughout your engine. If you dissassemble the rocker shafts, and fiddle the rocker arms so that the pins are always engaged in the LMA, then you'll be fine, and your VTEC solenoid will be useless. Ok so what if i drive the car engage vtec then never disengage it.. Its oil pressure that moves the cam over correct? Well when it does this does it trap that oil pressure in there to keep the cam in posistion.. or does it rely on the constant oil pressure to hold it.. Say you were driving in vtec.. then lost your oil pressure... would your vtec slide back and dis-engage ? i know youd have more problems if oyu lost oil pressure.. this is just Hypothetically speaking..Also you wouldnt happen to know how much pressure it takes to engage it? the alternative to all this would be learning to drive.... oh yea just so you know summit point isnt a drag strip.. www.summitpoint-raceway.com the lag and the rollercoaster tq curve around the corners were messing me up. Brian |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
There would be no torque available with vtec down low. If you know a Honda, and why they created Vtec, It was to be able to get a High Rev, Top End engine to be drivable down in the lower rpm range, because not everybody want to run a motor up in the 5000+rpm points every time they take off.
No I didn't just drop Vtec down. I didn't hop on the Honda BandWagon yestarday. If you researched you'd find most people often raise thy're engagement point. |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
There would be no torque available with vtec down low. If you know a Honda, and why they created Vtec, It was to be able to get a High Rev, Top End engine to be drivable down in the lower rpm range, because not everybody want to run a motor up in the 5000+rpm points every time they take off. No I didn't just drop Vtec down. I didn't hop on the Honda BandWagon yestarday. If you researched you'd find most people often raise thy're engagement point. Lol.."if i know honda and why they created vtec." Vtec was created because they wanted fuel economy down low and still be able to make some power at the top end by flowing more air. There engines are well balanced and designed to be able to flow air up top which helps with the fuel economy in the lower rpm. You do relize that an engine is just virtually an air pump.. The more air you can flow the more power you can make. Lets take for an instance.. you could have 40lbs of pressure flowing like 1000cfms of air at 1k RPM. assuming you had the fuel and spark readily available for that air you could make close to the same Tq and HP as if you were at 40lbs of pressure and 1000cfms of air at 8000 RPMs. That being said.. I have no clue why you would RAISE the vtec engagement on any boosted application other than your turbo spooling after your stock vtec point of roughly 5500rpm. If you can flow more air at a lower rpm due to turbo or whatever doing it i dont see why you wouldnt switch to the dam vtec lobe and flow it? :y And i have been researching turbos and hondas for 7yrs now. Im not anexpert but i know my fair share. Im trying to make something with good power throughout the whole powerband.. and not some dyno queen or straight drag car thats got a tq curve steeper than the tallest rollercoast. Know what i mean? Having a big ass turbo that isnt spooled until 6k rpm and when its spooling it jumps a couple hundred HP withing 2k rpm doesnt exactly work at a road coarse. The drag strip yes. But thats not what im going for. I guess the information i am looking for is the mechanical aspect of vtec. or someone that has had a similar experience on a boosted app. or some tech info on why it wont work.. Not "If i know Honda" Thanks Brian |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
First the high cam (VTEC) is held by a constant supply of pressure answer that question. As far as messing up the LMA's, that wouldn't happen. All they do it is keep the high cam rocker arm in check while it is not engaged. You could however mess up the pins that lock in the high cam rocker arm, since with low oil pressure they would be right on the edge in the rocker arm hole and would get scuffed and all mangled up.
As for keeping only the high cam. It would be stupid not to want the low cam. Having two cams is very benificial for making a broad torque curve throughout the RPM range. Just because the high cam allows more flow, doesn't mean that it will make power down low. In fact allowing more flow when the engine doesn't need it will only decrease intake velocity thus reducing the actual amount of air flowing into the combustion chamber. At low RPM's the low cam will always make more power than the high cam, always, turbo or not. It it designed for making power in that RPM range. |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
I dont believe this at all.. MOST Drag cars dont have 2 cams to get more tq lower end. They run a HUGE cam in it.. say F*ck the idle and dump as much air and fuel in it as they can. Like i said im on the track i dont care about gas mileage.
How can you prove that flowing more air down low with vtec on wont help? It just doesnt make sense. an air pump is an air pump whether its going at 1000rpm or 10k rpm. First the high cam (VTEC) is held by a constant supply of pressure answer that question. Constant supply comming from the engine going the vtec solenoid which switches the the cam over.. then does the soleniod close trapping the oil pressure in there holding the cam in. And the way you disengage is by tripping the valve to let the pressure out assuming your rpms are dropping along with the oil pressure? or does the soleniod open and stay open assuming that when you let off the gass your oil pressure is gonna drop and it just disengages itsself? If its the case that the vtec soleniod traps the oil in there .. then if i keep voltage on the soleniod it shouldnt matter if drop engine oil pressure because the vtec soleniod trapped the 80psi or whatever psi in there to hold it. Thanks Brian |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
i have my vtec engaging at 4500rpm when i'm fully spooled 11psi and it rocks! 8)
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
see my theory is...when you start making boost.. if you switch to the vtec lobe youw ill notice a descent different in hp and tq down low, say your car starts 1psi at 3200rpm if you can open it at say 3150..or already have it engauged at idle.. from 3200 at 1psi to 4500rpm + a couple hundred for it to fully engage.. you will already be making alot more hp and tq down low and not have to worry about your vtec engauging durring your powerband.
I mean on my ls 1.8l with a big turbo i was only getting 90 ft/tq at 3000rpm @ 2 psi...I now have the lude 2.2l and with vtec engaged hoping to have 6-8psi @ 3000 rpm im looking for a good 150-200ft tq. Huge difference. Of course completely different cars and engines.. but.. you can see what i mean by comparison, and how it would be beneficial going around a hairpin turn thats got a slight uphill tilt to it.. Assuming i keep traction it will pull alot harder. |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
wouldnt a launch limiter solve all problems to let u pre spool
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
like i said.. i have the studder box enabled in the ecu.. but im going for road course not drag strip. click that summit point link and check out the courses.. there pretty good. Like 250 bucks for instructional course.. and 200 bucks for actual course time. It is really fun.. i seemed to like it rather then driving for 12.9sec down a straight course, Personal opinion tho. Its a nice present from parents on bday, and holidays and whenever i can save up.
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
uh ok, i have read through this entire page and am not sure what advantage your trying to gain by activating vtec continuously ( which is impossible because it won't engage under a certain oil pressure) but i would think that setting your vtec to engage like 2-500 rpm higher ( like when your turbo is at full boost) would be more beneficial.
Rather than trying to run low rpm on a cam thats lift and duration is designed for operation above 4000K, which will only add to the about of performance loss and turbo lag because like someone already said, just because your ports are open farther does not mean you are actually flowing enough air to make use of it. basically without going into a long explanation on cam design and fluid dynamics, thats a bad idea and won't gain anything. secondly, vtec was invented for a purpose and it's not like it takes 20 seconds to engage so whats the point of having it on all the time anyway? |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
Originally Posted by dastinker8
I dont believe this at all.. MOST Drag cars dont have 2 cams to get more tq lower end. They run a HUGE cam in it.. say F*ck the idle and dump as much air and fuel in it as they can. Like i said im on the track i dont care about gas mileage.
How can you prove that flowing more air down low with vtec on wont help? It just doesnt make sense. an air pump is an air pump whether its going at 1000rpm or 10k rpm. unless you build some kind of frankenstien motor i dont see how your going to get the power you want below that rpm range, an air pump running at 1K rpm is going to pump less air just because its going slower then the one at 10K, your power will always be up top, and if your driveing a road course i dont see where you'd be below 3K rpm anyway? even on a city street driveing a little quicker then i need to i stay above 3K almost all the time, i'd imagine on a competitive road course i'd be above 3K ALL the time.. the short answer to solve your problem, learn to drive and quit bein a -----! my turbo isnt fully spooled untill 5K rpm and from what it sounds like, i could kick your ass on a road course the first time on it because you cant drive :6 also the turbo being at 2psi by 3K compared to 6-8psi is the entire power diffrence, just get a smaller turbo that fits your application instead of trying to butcher your motor for something that will probably prove useless anyway |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
ROAD COURSE DAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
wow obviously you didnt read this page. Like i said before.. Using a bigger cam and forcing more air down in the lower RPM range should yeild more power... yes i agree engagin vtec at a low rpm where the engine cant flow the air because its NA is a bad idea.. just as everyone else has stated i am stating again. I AM BOOSTING.. FULL BOOST AT 3000RPM. Meaning when my engine is turning at 3000rpm i have 8psi ready to be shoved through my intake ports, and when since the vtec lobe is open longer i can put more air in there cause i have pressure ready to go. Just as if you put cams in your car at lower rpms youll have higher hp and tq number if you your system can flow the air.
Im trying to figure out how to keep vtec open or engauged all the time. From what ive been reading there is a spring at the other end of the cam that pushes back when the spring force > oil pressure it switches the cam back. I still havent been able to locate weather the solenoid that engauges the cam keeps the pressure in there or whether it is always open. I see in uberdata you can set when your vtec disengauges... so u would think it keeps the pressure in the system and isnt dependant on the engine oil pressure after it has been engauged. In that case i could set that number to 1 RPM.. then when i start the car engauge vtec it wont ever disenguage.. I just wanna make sure it works that way tho. |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
Originally Posted by dastinker8
Say you were driving in vtec.. then lost your oil pressure... would your vtec slide back and dis-engage ?
*sigh* I told you how to rig VTEC so it was constant, if it were easier to just engage it when there's oil pressure don't you think I'd have told you? :-\
Originally Posted by dastinker8
the lag and the rollercoaster tq curve around the corners were messing me up.
There was a link to some DIY boost controllers a minute back, they had one that would control wastegate so that boost pressure reflected throttle angle. It's still not a truly linear power curve, but allows for a large degree of controllability. If you want to be a road track boostard, then look into it. |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
unless you build some kind of frankenstien motor i dont see how your going to get the power you want below that rpm range, an air pump running at 1K rpm is going to pump less air just because its going slower then the one at 10K, your power will always be up top, and if your driveing a road course i dont see where you'd be below 3K rpm anyway? even on a city street driveing a little quicker then i need to i stay above 3K almost all the time, i'd imagine on a competitive road course i'd be above 3K ALL the time.. So i guess now im just looking for how to keep the vtec engaged all the time. :) |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
Why not get one of those VTEC eliminator thingy mabobbers? :1
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
Originally Posted by dastinker8
There engines are well balanced and designed to be able to flow air up top which helps with the fuel economy in the lower rpm.
The simple explaination you've been offered about VTEC has about as much bearing on what is actually going on as telling a child that the engineering textbook you're reading is like their Dick and Jane reading primer, just with less pictures. ;)
Originally Posted by dastinker8
You do relize that an engine is just virtually an air pump.. The more air you can flow the more power you can make. Lets take for an instance.. you could have 40lbs of pressure flowing like 1000cfms of air at 1k RPM. assuming you had the fuel and spark readily available for that air you could make close to the same Tq and HP as if you were at 40lbs of pressure and 1000cfms of air at 8000 RPMs.
Yes, no, and on second thought let's turn my first yes into a no for practical applications. Engines behave dynamically, and at 1000 rpms vs 8000 rpms your pistons speeds vs flow vs combustion speeds vs thermal transfer vs crank angle vs a bunch of other ---- are going to be all sorts of fucked, with any available camshaft you can name. That's your practical application "no." As for making the same hp/tq at 1000 rpm vs 8000 rpm off of the same airmass... heh. You do realize that horseshit numbers are a function of the almighty torque @ whatever rpm you are measuring at? On the up side. You're a bright guy, you're thinking, you're playing with ideas. Get some books on engine theory, flow, head porting, etc. The commonly available ones you find in the bookstore that are centered around the V8 stuffs are awesome. Cut your teeth on those. Post what you're thinking, I'm more than happy to offer perspective. I'm just not going to pick through... everything here... and try to patch a sinking ship. Sorry for that dismal metaphor, but it applies :P PS - Oh, yeah, and engine is not an air pump. It's an open cycle reciprocating steam engine, driven by the expansion of water vapor created during the combustion reaction. Don't listen to the hot air heat guys telling you a bunch of hot air (literally!) pushes the piston down. Monitoring pressure rise over time in a bomb for equivalent stochiochemic between two known fuels with a more-or-less known chain of combustion, say, isooctane and methanol, shows the fuel that converts to water vapor first (methanol) building pressure substantially sooner - compared to isooctane, where the combustion reaction is 85% complete before 11% of total pressure is built. See where I'm going with this? It's ALWAYS more complex than you think. |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
omfg , what i was talking about in regards to cam design and not running a high progile cam at low rpm is because if you have a high lift, high duration cam at low rpm, you have what is called overlap. this is where both your intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, so if your running 8psi at 3k and you have 30deg of overlap (or whatever) then you will end up pushing most of your boost pressure out the exhaust. this is not an issue at higher rpm because the intake/exaust velocity actually helps air fill and exit the cylinders.
i also just discovered that there is a site called www.meetblackpeople.com why the hell isn't that considered racist? |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
Originally Posted by signorelli21
omfg , what i was talking about in regards to cam design and not running a high progile cam at low rpm is because if you have a high lift, high duration cam at low rpm, you have what is called overlap. this is where both your intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, so if your running 8psi at 3k and you have 30deg of overlap (or whatever) then you will end up pushing most of your boost pressure out the exhaust. this is not an issue at higher rpm because the intake/exaust velocity actually helps air fill and exit the cylinders.
If you are boosting, save for specific high rpm high boost situations where bmep drops off and system dynamics get really pimpy like you were a NA ride which has nothing to do with this explaination so I'm going to insert a comma now and get on with my point, you have a lot more exhaust pressure than intake pressure... how are you going to cause blowthrough in a situation like that? If you are using a commonly available turbo (something already commonly used on a Honduh), we can equate specific output to airmass ingested... and it's going to take the same amount of power output to spool a turbo, which you aren't going to get if all your intake charge is wasted. To make a crude comparison, two identical engines save for one has more duration and less LSA so there is blow through, you are going to have to make, say, 75 hp to spool a .57 trim T3/T04E w/ .63 AR stage 3 turbine. Which isn't going to happen if all your intake airmass is wasted with blowthrough... you quite simply wouldn't spool if it were such an issue, not without jacking around on turbine sizing. Now, I'm going to turn right around and contradict what I just typed. I can do this; I am vast, I contain multitudes. Besides, like I said in my last post, it is ALWAYS more complicated: Not all of this power comes from the spent exhaust leaving the combustion chamber - some of it could be coming from (carefully engineered!) blow through. Blow through, and cam overlap, and shorter than popular in the domestic world LSA (116 or greater? Meant for low revving high bmep engines, not small high winding 4 cyl.), etc, are all GOOD things. The first puff of intake charge strokes up against a superhot intake valve, which in turn superheats the initial intake charge. Awesome! We've just pushed a little more thermal mass into our combustion chamber and lowered our knock limit and safety limit. Vizard found the equivalent of two points of octane rating from ceramic coating intake valves *alone*, can you guess why? So, the all-around best thing we can do is blow that ---- right out the exhaust. Doing this further serves us in two ways, which are linked together in a chain: 1) While the initial intake charge is "superhot" compared to what IAT readings would suggest, it is still substantially cooler than the single hottest part in the infernal combustion engine... the part that takes the biggest thermal buttraping and is expected to like it... the exhaust valve. More heat passes to our soon-to-be ex-intake charge, as it cools the exhaust valve while exiting stage left. 2) Ever hear the term "afterburn"? It's easy to induce with a little ignition retard right @ the point of greatest blow through. If we are savvy, we engineer the blow through to match the point at which the turbo needs to come alive. Now we have created a high pressure situation in the manifold that goes to spool the turbo, where that pressure would otherwise be wasted pressing the piston downward. Bah! In an off-boost situation, what good is that? And that's the short explaination, ignoring a lot of stuff. |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
Ok Joseph Davis can you tell me what you think would happen since you seem knowledgable with the honda engine :y .
Its an H22a1. Lets say i replaced the intake cam and took off vtec, however the new cam i had,has the exact same size. lift duration as the vtec lobe. 1. How well would it idle? 2. If you had to compare Tq number from a stock h22a1 vs the tq number of the h22a1 with the new vtec cam as described above which one would be higher? 3. If you had to compare tq numbers from the engine at 3000rpm @ 8psi on the stock h22a1 low cam vs.. 3000rpm @ 8psi on the h22a1 that had that cam with the vtec sized lobe. 4. Do you think there would be blowbye on the setup using nothing but the vtec lobe, and how bad would it affect it. 5. Do you know how the soleniod works to where it either traps the pressure in and is released by the ecu or whether it stays open and when the pressure drops it disengages vtec by the loss of oil pressure Heres my theory on how vtec works. Pressure builds up at the soleniod. The ecu reads the engine pressure and if its high enough at the number marked in the ecu it opens the soleniod for a set amount of time and then shuts, keeping the pressure inside. When the rpm drops and it reaches the disengage number set in the ecu. the soleniod opens again and the spring helps squirt the oil out disengaging vtec also checking to make sure the oil pressure inside the engine has dropped. This makes the most sense otherwise the cam would be slidding around depending on the pressure inside the engine. Make sense? What do you think. Thanks Brian |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
1) Never done it to an H22, but I had a hand in ghetto-rigging a kid's B16A1 w/ GSR cams. The guy was too damn cheap to buy a KS so he could have OMG JDM VTEC, but he had no problem slapping a Volvo WOT switch onto his TB to activate VTEC whenever he floored the gas. When he clicked it at idle (low oil pressure, damaged pins/high cam rocker arms not LMAs thnx for the correction earlier) the idle got a little lumpy, like a mild cam, but not enough to cause the engine to stall or need a higher idle. Your results should be similar, at worst case ou'd have to up idle to 1000 rpms *shrug*.
2) Since peak torque occurs in VTEC on most of the Honduhs I see stock dyno charts for, your peak value and position is going to be unchanged whether or not you disable the low cam. 3) I dunno, only ridden in one boosted H22. I know that VTEC helps spool when you bring it in a little early, but at what point that occurs on an H22 I do not know. If the built H22 I've been supposed to tune "next week" for the last two months were ready, I might have a good answer for you. Worrying about actual power at 3000 rpms, I don't think it matters that much. 4) Blowby is different from blow through. :P All blowby is bad. For a stock cammed Honduh, you'll get nothing but good out of the high cam and what blowby it has. There is a reason a lot of Honduhs run mild NA cams + boost, works great. The Web cams for my LS have 25 extra degrees duration over stock, and cam gears at 0,0 I have a touch more LSA but still more overlap than stock... not to mention a ---- ton of lift. 5) The solenoid doesn't trap pressure, it *provides* pressure. Oil doesn't go to the pins that lock the rocker arms until it switches on. It's not going to keep pressure from falling off, since it provides system pressure. As far as the pin-lock system being leak free if you could fangle something to act as a "plug"... the fact oil pressure falls off ~20 psi upon VTEC engagement lets you know that it isn't leak free. Pull out the rocker shafts, flip the pins in the arms, that is the only way to do it. That's how the VTEC killer setups work. As for how VTEC works: - You hit RPM @ load that tells the ECU to trigger VTEC. - ECU sends 12v power to the VTEC solenoid, simultaneously switching fuel/ignition maps - ECU checks for VTEC pressure switch close, letting the ECU know there is sufficient oil pressure - If not enough pressure, ECU gives up clicks CEL - If plenty of pressure, ECU continues to feed 12V to the solenoid as long as there is RPM @ load and oil pressure. |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
As for how VTEC works: - You hit RPM @ load that tells the ECU to trigger VTEC. - ECU sends 12v power to the VTEC solenoid, simultaneously switching fuel/ignition maps - ECU checks for VTEC pressure switch close, letting the ECU know there is sufficient oil pressure - If not enough pressure, ECU gives up clicks CEL - If plenty of pressure, ECU continues to feed 12V to the solenoid as long as there is RPM @ load and oil pressure. Correct me if I'm wrong(and I'm sure you will), but doesn't V-Tack activation also depend on vehicle speed? I thought you had to be going a certain MPH in order for V-Tack to activate, along with all that other ----? I've never owned me a V-Tack Honduh so I don't know for sure. :1 __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
WOW man do i feel stupid. I Finally found a picture of it.. now it all makes sense.. LOL on some pictures on the net it says that it actually slides the cam!! I was thinking on how that worked Becaues ive only rebuilt motorcycle heads... and i was thinking that theres no way you can slide the cam, and the size of spring it would take to be able to push the cam back. I see what you mean about the Pin. So if i just want vtec engaged all the time.. Open up the head.. pull the springs out insert a new pin that is longer and keeps the Vtec lobe engaged. I mean i thought honda was good.. but sliding a cam didnt seem like it made sense, and being able to do it with like only 60psi of pressure.. HAHA WOOOOOO. Anyway, I think i might rip into my head retune my ecu and see how it does na.. before i boost this one.... and see if i notice any gains or losses. Thanks Joseph for the info... Also if you could goto the Hybrid tech an post on my timing issue it would also be greatly appriciated.
Thanks Brian |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
Dr. Boost, Ya there are certain conditions that need to be met for the engine to engage the high cam, like almost any CEL (I said almost), oil pressure at the solenoid, speed, coolant temp, rpm, and load. You can modify the code to not use these checks though.
dastinker8, I already told you how the high cam is engaged with oil pressure, JD also told you, stop being an ignorant dumbass. Any helms or honda manual will explain how the vtec system works. You need to listen as well. I explained to you why the high cam will not make as much power as the low cam at low rpms, JD explained many other things that you should read and remember, JD is probably the smartest mo fo you will ever have the chance of listening to. So pay attention. When JD said engines behave dynamically, he couldn't be more right. Engines power usually bahaves as a "curve" because we can't control all the variables that go into making the most power at every rpm, load, and whether condition. Everything would need to be variable. So engines end up having a torque "peak" where everything is working right to get the most air into the combustion chamber. VTEC allows you to have two cams, and two torque peaks (not entirely true since every part of the engine is used to optimize the high cam) and with two torque peaks allows you to have a broader usable rpm range. Get it yet? |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
Originally Posted by Dr.Boost
Correct me if I'm wrong(and I'm sure you will), but doesn't V-Tack activation also depend on vehicle speed?
Originally Posted by Dr.Boost
I've never owned me a V-Tack Honduh
Maybe you can imagine how dirty I feel when I have to work on a VTEC-equipped slowmobile *shudder* |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
Damn we all posted at the same time.
dastinker8, actually Ferrari uses a sliding cam. The face of the cam is sloped. As the engine speed rises the cam moves over and thus a higher lift is attained. It is like an infinitely variable VTEC system. |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
yes you said high cam is engaged with vtec.. you didnt say whether the cam moves or not. All the pictures in the pdf are shitty and i couldnt see how it actually works.
I am in the quest for more power by tweeking everything i can.. if i dont know how it works thats why im posting up to figure it out. I want to increase the integral of my tq curve.. and try and sqeeze out every little bit out for as cheap as posssible. Thanks for the info Brian |
Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
If you're looking for power up till 8k, I don't think a t3 super 60 will continue to keep on producing power at the high of rev. Go with a t3/t4 if you're looking to make power that high. I hope you're planning to spend money on your head to if you're going to rev to 8k alot, 7k is enough for a stock head on a h22.
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
i rev my h22 head to 8k daily... and i have yet to get valve floating... and it pulls all the way there too.
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
h22a1 with 10psi - track car. good luck. I wouldnt put $ on it lasting too long. At least its not an A4 tho.
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
why is that.. whats your beef with the h22 and boost?
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Re: Leaving vtec on for track car
I havent heard of many stock-bottom-end H22's lasting very long boosted (Especially the the open-deck A4's)
I don't have any "beef" with boosted H22's. I boosted a friend of mine's A1 and its been running for almost 2 years although its not driven very often. |
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