ichbinsobose

I had the damn thing working previously but after building a new MS harness and rewiring the LC1... issues, have I.

This is how I did it now with my 6wire LC1:
Red wire goes to 12v white wire on O2 sensor harness. It only sees 12v once the engine warms up.
White + Blue wire go to Ground + Signal Ground (white+grey) on my O2 harness.
Brown or yellow wires (same effect) go to the black signal wire on stock O2 harness.
Black Calibration wire connects to led + switch, other end of LED + switch connect to ground with the white + blue wires.

The LED never lights up like it should whether the sensor is plugged into the controller or not. The car (with stock DME) throws a code for the o2 sensor and I guess it no longer sends 12v via the white wire. Even when it did, no LED lighting up like it used to.

I have the "in" serial port plugged, and the "out" unplugged so that if it ever turns on I can adjust the voltage parameters.

Any other info necessary? This is making me sad.

danz

hmm.. its bad to expose the sensor to exhaust without being warmed up for over 10 seconds...

but you should still get some action

u verify everything with a volt meter?

Smith-02

ive been there when he did it twice, voltage is correct on his ----

ichbinsobose

I have done the voltage a million times at this point, it doesnt even seem to kick on with a ign direct 12v. I'll keep ------- with it when I get a chance. Double ---- wiring.

toyollAZ86

are you getting a solid ground.
take the multimeter and put one end to the ground wire and one end on the frame of the car and
set the meter to diode setting so you can just hear it beep audibly. if it beeps good. if not your ground
is not a good source. and then i would make my own ground.

ichbinsobose

the really frustrating part is.. I have grounded and drawn power from battery. Power from ign, or +B.
Ground at ECU ground, at Frame, at Strut tower. Fail.

HiProfile

Unless you are able to log the wideband voltage through the ecu you use (via the stock o2 wires), then don't even bother wiring ANY part of it to any wires used for the normal o2 sensor. Red to +12v switched source (as close to battery voltage as possible), all grounds to the battery (not to chassis or ecu ground), and narrowband wire hooked to original o2 input wire for the ecu (if it looks for a narrowband o2 sensor 0-1v input), then deal with the heater however you can (load resistor, etc).

The LC-1 has to heat the wideband with its own circuitry, or it won't work right. I would not put the +12v red wire on a wire that waits until the engine warms up, it is supposed to start heating/sensing as soon as their is exhaust moving through the pipes - not before, not after. Also, you are supposed to have the terminator plug in the "in" at all times for your main LC-1 in the serial chain, regardless of it not beeing hooked to your PC or other devices.

Go back and read all the installation, setup, and 1st run sections of the manual, you need to follow them to a T or you may have problems. Its not like a cheap PLX where you wirenut 3 wires and turn the key.

ichbinsobose

thats it, how do i go about figuring out if the unit itself is ------- dead and why?
the led works, the button works, there is voltage getting to the WB but it wont heat up or read or connect to the pc or MS and the LED never lights up. Wiring is correct I have done it every-------- way.