Jeep Turbo??
#32
so if i do the leaf under it will drop that much didnt think it would thought it would just drop the same as the width of the axle.. but that was my first intensions with the rear and and an airbag to help support the weight..
and the front was new coils but what car coil fit on cherokee s if not cut the coil or clamp the coil and add an airbag to stop any bouncing.. but that was my idea i dont know if there a correct way or not...
Have you done this to ur jeep or u know someone who has...??
and the front was new coils but what car coil fit on cherokee s if not cut the coil or clamp the coil and add an airbag to stop any bouncing.. but that was my idea i dont know if there a correct way or not...
Have you done this to ur jeep or u know someone who has...??
pretty basic, on sping under vehicles you move the springs to the top of the axle for lift, the lift is equal the the height of the axle tube and leaf pack. it would work the same in reverse (XJ is factory spring over), it would also help with axle wrap. the perches would flip to the bottom (weld them on upside down) and reverse the center pin. you can measure the coils (I don't recall the diameter) and then have a set cut or get lift coils (stiffer spring rate) or even stock and just start removing coils. some disagree but I never had any problems when I did it (of course back when I was a broke kid there weren't so many aftermarket companies making aftermarket parts).
I would not clamp the coils.
As far as moving the batteries to the back, I need every bit of room for equipment, tools welder etc. I even recessed my sub into the rear side panel (like a factory Explorer). Make sure you run a sealed battery if it is in the cargo area.
#33
trying to understand these maps, according to this looks like a t3 is the best option, thoughts, input, corrections?
http://www.***************/turbocalc...60&map_sel2=76
http://www.***************/turbocalc...60&map_sel2=76
#34
Cherokeekid - He changed his username before he got banned, but here is the thread. cherokee-budget-turbo-build-thread-done-vid-too
#36
this one I assume is more realistic t3 50 trim, power on at 2200 max at 4000 peak at 4800 redline at 5200. I usually am running between 2000-3800 rpm. I do have concerns with heat if it spooling too much. I'm looking for a mild boost power while keeping it reliable (breaking on the trail not so much fun)
thanks for any input.
thanks for any input.
#38
I was using 8lb of boost, I thought the chart uses lb/min vs psi on the x axis of the chart, not sure what I am missing or inputing incorrectly. I'm assuming that the t3/t4 is going to be the logical route based on kits available. I'm trying to keep the power in a useful range. I would like to use the smallest turbo (physical size based on space available under the intake).
#39
It uses lb/min instead of cfm on the x axis. The y axis is where your problem is. At 8 lbs, or a pressure ratio of 1.54, and around 25 lb/min flow at 5000 rpm, you are outside of the map. In fact, no matter the rpm, you would never go into the 75% range. Yes, the turbo would work, but it is way too much turbo for what you want. Boosting 20+ lbs on a 4.0, it would be great, but it is overkill for a quick spool, low boost application.
You could realistically run a tdo4-13g on that motor for your needs. You would be at 8 lbs almost off idle, but you would have to size your wastegate(s) to ensure you don't spike.
You could realistically run a tdo4-13g on that motor for your needs. You would be at 8 lbs almost off idle, but you would have to size your wastegate(s) to ensure you don't spike.
#40
thanks again for all he help, I think I need to rethink this a bit.
The to4 mentioned is is going to be simiiar to some t28s? Isee the t28 can be had with a t3 flange which would give me more options down the road.
It also looks like I need to be more realistic about the power band, I need the boost to start to come on around 2k but max should be around 4500.
My thnking is to fabricate for the manifold based on a t3/t4 due to physical size and then be able to fairly easily try smaller units t3/t28
The to4 mentioned is is going to be simiiar to some t28s? Isee the t28 can be had with a t3 flange which would give me more options down the road.
It also looks like I need to be more realistic about the power band, I need the boost to start to come on around 2k but max should be around 4500.
My thnking is to fabricate for the manifold based on a t3/t4 due to physical size and then be able to fairly easily try smaller units t3/t28
Last edited by cherokeekid; 02-20-2010 at 02:56 PM.