Jeep Turbo??
 

Ok guys im a noob to this forum so if im mistaken in any info just help me out... Ive got a 98 jeep cherokee 4.0 L6 and i want put a turbo ofcourse..

i have a big 16g turbo EvoIII w/ adjustable internal wastegate. dont remember much of the specs, it been with me for about two years and not been used after i got rid of my eclipse..i need info on what the best management systems i should use, what size injectors.. etc.. also goin to have a FMIC installed behind the radiator. took out clutch fan and aux so have plenty of room. put two electric fans in front as a pusher...

if this turbo doesnt work with the application im going to just get a T3/T4 but bigger is better. I'm up for all answers and suggestions im in this all the way even if its a slow process....

so your going to blow hot air radiating of your radiator into your intercooler? does sound very efficient to me

yea, you should probably put the inter-cooler in front. And when the hell did the 16g start being classified as "big". Its in the "tiny" category for me.

well there is a 16g and a big16g thats why he said he has a big 16g

ah i see.

Still not a big turbo lol, but i get where the name comes from

well there was only two places i could realy mount it either ther or on the top of the engine and put a hood scoop but either way im still getting 50/50 cold and hot.. i would mount it directly under the radiator but i dont want it to be seen its goin to be a sleeper... im not a trail rider i want horsepower... anyways would this thing work im looking at i and i think i would have to mount it upside down since its not a top mount and the down pipe i have would be cummin up.... or fab up a new one... so give it to me what the hell should i do.?

And yea there to classes even though i dont know much the different but this is a big 16g.. and i think its big enough for my app.

I realize the 4.0L Inline 6 from Jeep is pretty inefficient when it comes to breathing and revving, but lets do a simple break down of displacement vs. turbo sizing.

Stock eclipse engine - 2.0L with a half way decent breathing DOHC head.

Stock jeep motor - 4.0L with an obsolete head that dates back to the 1960's.

I think you need a little more turbo to get started, I'm not saying it won't work, just that your manifold will be glowing at cruising speeds because you will have her backed up with a small turbo. If you did do this it would make great torque, just not much more power and would probably fall on it's face up top big big time.

A turbo jeep with a 4.0L used to hang around the drag strip near Pittsburgh and the owner ran a 60-1 with a stage 5 turbine wheel. That is almost double the size of a Big16G It ran 12's and was reliable to the best of my knowledge.

Ok makes sense... Can you give me a couple i names i should look at cuz im trying to keep away from any nokoffs.. ive been looking at some garrett and turbonetics.. but the price range is a lil out of reach... when it comes to everything else i think ill be pretty set even though the management system might be a lil tricky... im not to good when it comes to the electrical part.. i know the basics..

And thank for everyones input... keep it comin.

Disregard the prince range on those im sure i can handle it...

Most of us guys here on HMT run Holeset turbo's from Cummins diesel trucks.

You can run the stock turbine housing from a Cummins if you like or try to source a smaller one that fits which I never had much luck at. I have always gotten turbine housings like these to help me out.

1. Find a good condition HX35 or HX40 from a junkyard, ebay, craigslist, etc.
2. Get this turbine housing cut for the appropriate turbine wheel.
Tim's Turbos - Turbo Rebuilding - Steel Turbine Housing - T3 Inlet
3. Rock out with your cock out for less then $400 bucks if you get lucky.

Holeset HX35's and and HX40's can also be rebuilt on the cheap as long as the compressor wheel or turbine wheel don't get blasted and the turbo shaft doesn't get scored.

ok what would i be looking at when it comes to how much boost i can run on the stock internals as well as what do u think the spooling rate would be.. dont mind the slight turbo talk dont know the specifics about these things..

Why wouldn't a 16g work? It will flow over 500cfm @ 14.7 psi before dropping below 60%. I would think that is well within his needs. And he will spool faster.

I don't know those types of answers my man. If you put the intercooler behind the radiator the answer will be me NOT MUCH. Cold air, lots of fuel, and proper timing are what keep stock motors from throwing fits and parts out on the ground.

ok i get you... the intercooler is goin to mount in a good location other than behind the radiator... i know i need fuel im goin to upgrade injectors... upgrade walboro fuel pump.. some form off fuel management and timing system... like i said before im not all that good with the electrical part im am goin to have someone tune it for me as well as do the electrical wiring and wat not with managemnt systems... im trying to find the best application without goin to big and not to small..

In time this project will be a street moster im just getting started here.

ok i found an Holset HX40 for about 275 shaft spins freely, no end play, and slight shaft play.. internal waste gate and downpip manifold.. i want to do a rebuild on it just so i know its all i proper working condition.. what would be a good place to find a kit..and when apart clean it up im dont know of to many shops here in miami that can do this without taking an arm..

Forgot about this...... im a slow at work..

Just run it. Worry about the other parts you still need. If the turbo spins and neither of the wheels have hit the housings it will almost always be OK. The HX's are tough turbo's.

Got it.... im ordering it on monday so should have it by the end of the week... any suggestion on size injectors??? and pump?

just get a walbro 225. as far as injectors i dont know i have never fucked with a jeep so i can be any help there. if you dont want your intercooler to be seen just give it a coat of flat black thats what alot of people do to get the sleeper look.

yea i was thinkin that.... what would be better internal or external wastegate i found a turbonetics turbo reman.. Turbonetics

T-58 aka TS04
4" compressor housing inlet
2.5" outlet with 90 elbow welded on
Polished compressor housing
Compressor Inducer: 58.4mm (2.3")
Compressor Exducer: 84mm (3.3")
Big Shaft "Tuff Turbo" option
Journal bearing, oil cooled
P-Trim turbine wheel
T3 divided 1.0 a/r exhaust housing
6-bolt exhaust outlet
Supports up to 550hp!!!
Professionally rebuilt with new big shaft bearing kit
and Dynamic rebalance

not sure what to use with the downpipe.. just get the flange and bolt it up with external or still go with hx40???

I don't think you want a P-Trim turbine wheel hoss. That will take a while to spool. That turbo you posted is the perfect turbo for a built 5.0L mustang looking to make nice power on the street and great torque.

External wastegates are always better if you have the money.

What do you think about the turbonetics turbo i found.. kinda like the idea of the ball bearing.. either yes or no.... good buy or bust..

If it is the one with the P-Trim turbine wheel that you posted in this thread I said pass in my last post.

ok didnt see it it automatically came to this page.... ok im stickin with the hx...

ok ive got another ?? to throw on here but i know what to expect with some answers... how do i go about lowereing my jeep xj about 2.5 to 3 inches.... i have a rough idea that seems plausible but not for sure.. anyone have any ideas on how to lower a unibody vehicle???????

I'm looking at doing something similiar, I've done a number of searches in addition to reading a number of technical sites. Orignally was looking at a T3/T4 but due to siz constraints I'm curious about the t28, this was the turbo recommended by the person that referred me to this site. The Jeep is daily driven (rpms rarely above 4000). Needs minimal lag between 2-4k rpm.

The turbo will need to fit under the intake manifold (dual batteries and 2 AC compressors).

Using some of the online calculators, a gt28 with between .63-.86 AR should work. All the posts I see state a larger turbo is needed. Thoughts on this smaller unit?

front are coils-use a shorter coil. rear is sprung over, remove a leaf or switch to spring under (will lower 5-6") using lift springs or lift shackles to level the rear.

This is what this guy informaed me.... im taking his advive remember most of those guys putting turbos on their jeep are rock crawling and they need that extra power just to pass big rigs on the high way if ur looking for hp then go bigger... if not im not to sure about that size turbo but ill look in to it and see if similar to the turbonetics ball bearing turbo i was looking at...

and for the batterys just relocated either one or both the trunk of the car im incorperating mine with the sub box im currently building..

so if i do the leaf under it will drop that much didnt think it would thought it would just drop the same as the width of the axle.. but that was my first intensions with the rear and and an airbag to help support the weight..
and the front was new coils but what car coil fit on cherokee s??? if not cut the coil or clamp the coil and add an airbag to stop any bouncing.. but that was my idea i dont know if there a correct way or not...

Have you done this to ur jeep or u know someone who has...??

there is jeep turbo in the fab section. it was made by csaddict check it out it is pretty tits

searched and it said invalid username, scolled through back to 2008 and didn't see it?:confused:

I don't know anyone with a lowered XJ (seen some ZJ, but they are coils all around).

pretty basic, on sping under vehicles you move the springs to the top of the axle for lift, the lift is equal the the height of the axle tube and leaf pack. it would work the same in reverse (XJ is factory spring over), it would also help with axle wrap. the perches would flip to the bottom (weld them on upside down) and reverse the center pin. you can measure the coils (I don't recall the diameter) and then have a set cut or get lift coils (stiffer spring rate) or even stock and just start removing coils. some disagree but I never had any problems when I did it (of course back when I was a broke kid there weren't so many aftermarket companies making aftermarket parts).

I would not clamp the coils.

As far as moving the batteries to the back, I need every bit of room for equipment, tools welder etc. I even recessed my sub into the rear side panel (like a factory Explorer). Make sure you run a sealed battery if it is in the cargo area.

trying to understand these maps, according to this looks like a t3 is the best option, thoughts, input, corrections?

http://www.***************/turbocalc...60&map_sel2=76

Cherokeekid - He changed his username before he got banned, but here is the thread. cherokee-budget-turbo-build-thread-done-vid-too

thoughts on this mapping?

looking at power coming on at 1800 peak around 3500 and max rpm at 5200

this one I assume is more realistic t3 50 trim, power on at 2200 max at 4000 peak at 4800 redline at 5200. I usually am running between 2000-3800 rpm. I do have concerns with heat if it spooling too much. I'm looking for a mild boost power while keeping it reliable (breaking on the trail not so much fun)

thanks for any input.

Is that what you mapped as far as your flow needs? If so, you are past the choke point of that turbo on the top end. And what psi you looking at running? That flow mapping is showing 21+ psi.

I was using 8lb of boost, I thought the chart uses lb/min vs psi on the x axis of the chart, not sure what I am missing or inputing incorrectly. I'm assuming that the t3/t4 is going to be the logical route based on kits available. I'm trying to keep the power in a useful range. I would like to use the smallest turbo (physical size based on space available under the intake).

It uses lb/min instead of cfm on the x axis. The y axis is where your problem is. At 8 lbs, or a pressure ratio of 1.54, and around 25 lb/min flow at 5000 rpm, you are outside of the map. In fact, no matter the rpm, you would never go into the 75% range. Yes, the turbo would work, but it is way too much turbo for what you want. Boosting 20+ lbs on a 4.0, it would be great, but it is overkill for a quick spool, low boost application.
You could realistically run a tdo4-13g on that motor for your needs. You would be at 8 lbs almost off idle, but you would have to size your wastegate(s) to ensure you don't spike.

thanks again for all he help, I think I need to rethink this a bit.

The to4 mentioned is is going to be simiiar to some t28s? Isee the t28 can be had with a t3 flange which would give me more options down the road.

It also looks like I need to be more realistic about the power band, I need the boost to start to come on around 2k but max should be around 4500.

My thnking is to fabricate for the manifold based on a t3/t4 due to physical size and then be able to fairly easily try smaller units t3/t28