Team Import Gunz

hi for of u that dont know me my name is also Dave, and ive been deciding what to do for a turbo project.

here are the things i got
1.95 GSR head-free
2. 90 LS block B18A-given by my uncle

I have a couple of questions
1. If i resleeve the B18A to 84 mm will it be the same as a B20B?

2. Can I buy the Arias pistons part #3320800, these are for the Crv motor. Will they work with the resleeved b18A? Can i also do what Dave did to his B20?(pinned and posted)

3. What connecting rods should i go with? I was looking at Eagles rods cause they can withstand 600 hp. Any ideas?

4. Now as for turbo, i was looking at either a garret T3/04, garret T3/T6, or a garret T4/T6. My idea is to have a 400 hp daily driven 95 Civic Hb. Which turbo is good for my application?

5. Should I go with an LS or GSR tranny?

6. What ecu is going to power this beast?

thanks so much any ideas will be really appreciated. Sorry for this being so long, i just want to do it right.

88crxSi

I think re-sleving it is a waste of time. a b18 turbo is more then enough. BUt if you really want to it might be easier (and cheaper) just to sell the b18 block and get a b20b.

THRESHOLD

correct

Tom-Guy

B20B/Z blocks are weaker than LS, the cylinder walls are much thinner than B18A/B - I really only recommend them for NA builds.

If you're going to have the block sleeved, stick with the cheap B18A block... it's the same exact thing once sleeved, only it has zero resale value unlike the B20B/Z.

B20B/Z is an LS bottom end with 84mm bore, their rods are even stamped PR4 like LS's. Those JE will work.

Incorrect bits of info you've been told: Never seen a Garrett T6. Eagles really aren't reliable past 450-500 hp.

Sounds like an expensive build up. Me, I'd just throw some Eagles into the LS bottom end, either pour the block with Devcon epoxy or DIY post it (like you mentioned), make sure my pistons (stock) are properly flycut for the higher lift VTEC cams so I could rev past 7500 with safety, and go with a mundane T3/4. I realize you wouldn't be making huge hp, but over 300 whp is a fairly modest goal, and it's not like you'll have any traction past 200 whp unless you drop mad $ on your suspension and learn to drive better than 90% of people can.

2000psi

I think that's a good point JD. Anything over 200whp isn't gonna have much traction( on a FWD), I think a lot of people miss that point. 200whp with 160 ft/lbs+ is a healthy amount for a daily driven street car. In a lightened hatch with 200whp/160ft/lbs you will have few enemies on the street assuming you are an above average driver.

Team Import Gunz

so what turbo should i use

2000psi

Put the GSR head on the LS block and use a Hondata (P2 with a Mitsu Big16g...Use stock internals for now....run 8-10 psi everyday on premium gas......it will be enough power for you.

HMT-Admin

Actuall, the Sleeves on the B20b/z are larger than the B18a/b its how they are constructed that makes them weak. They are not like conventional cylinders that are round. The b20 sleeves are not truely round, which makes them weak, and how they are made, they are all cast together, which makes them very brittle and prone to crack. Especially when boosted they can easily flex, the B18 is by far the better way to go, wish I knew this stuff before I bought my B20 Oh well, Good tuning, and hopfully with the block pinned/posted it will last awhile, Just have to be easy on the timing .

Another example of the b20's type of sleeves is in the S2000 F20c.

Jeff Frank


6.8mm - 7.2mm (B18b)

7.65mm - 7.9mm (B20b)

Just measured the sleeves a few mins ago..

Team Import Gunz

what manifold should i go with, one with a wastegate flange or just a full on equal length race one. If i were to get one with a wastegate flange, what kind of wastegate should i buy and what bov. Thanks again