Originally Posted by Joseph Davis

Is your STD syphillis, and has it started to rot out your brain yet? Spin the Grainger valves, duh. :1





;)

Originally Posted by Speed Phreak

Hi all, not many people know me because I'm rarely here. However I was compelled to post up my homebrew staged boost controller. Let face it, we're all here becuase the most of us are cheap/broke speed junkies. I'm always on the look out for a good deal or creatively cheap way of doing things.

My car has traction problems (like most FWD chassis turbo cars do)... 6~7psi most of the time will burn down 1st and 2nd gears without careful roll on throttle application, any higher boost than that makes my first 2 gears useless period. This is on a decent suspension, a Quaife LSD, and BFG DR's. I've always wanted some way to control boost over speed/gear, but short of buying a AVC-R or doing some in depth electronics work that prolly won't happen.

I figured why not make myself some sort user of selectable MBC(s)? So with a trip to the spare parts bucket I cobbled together a little 3 stage selectable boost controller that runs W/G spring in the first stage and MBC settings on stages 2 and 3. Total cost on the whole rig was about $40....cheap enough I suppose. The majority of that cost for me stemed from the "Grainger" valves that I purchased to use as ball/spring MBC's($9/per). Also I purchased a shift knob with 4 buttons intergrated into it from the local Autozone for $15 on sale...I've seen them for this much online as well. Your own MBC's can be whatever you having laying around/purchased but they have to be ball/spring type. ** Vacuum bleed type will not work with the diagrams I have provided. I can however produce a diagram that will work, but it will be much more complex than the current design.**

The basic principle I designed this setup around was to allow me to run multiple stages of boost without having to fumble for switches or take my hands far from the steering wheel/shifter.

The "Grainger" valves used in my setup fit perfectly on the honda/acura purge control solenoid. They can be purchased at your local Grainger store if you can find someone with a commercial account, they don't sell to the public(part # 5z763). If you are unable to do this McMaster carries the same pressure relief valve, part # 48935K25. They sell online to anyone. Both will need a { 1/4" female pipe --> 1/8" barbed hose } fitting.

The fitting and "Grainger valve" looks like this -->
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...ak/fitting.jpg

The real deal for your visual learners
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...IYBoost003.jpg

Here is a diagram for ease of assembly.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w.../ghettoEBC.gif



The shift knob I spoke of earlier...really made things come together well. It is basically a 4 button wireless transmitter with a brain box the has the 4 outputs. It's a cheap peice but works none the less. You may need to do some relay/electrical tomfoolery depending on your own designs. I'm happy to provide diagrams of my own setup or help if there is interest.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w.../shiftknob.jpg

Everyone enjoy...

Originally Posted by Joseph Davis

I regret ever asking Speed Phreak to post this write up here.

Originally Posted by Joseph Davis

Hrm.

The thread needs editing, and locking so it can't be polluted. Let the people who can understand basic ball-spring boost controller operation benefit while the inept flounder.

If you want a local scene you have to build one.