davcivic

As some of you might remember I finished my turbo project on the 88 hatch about 2 months ago. At the time I had some problems with it only boosting 4psi. I checked the charge pipes and some of you told me to check the BOV, Greddy type s, as it could be too loose and leaking pressure. I did, but it was the same. After I bought my WRX I pretty much neglected the hatch until this past weekend, that I was trying again to get everything fixed.

First of all the battery was drained, don't know why, no problem, I put a battery charger and started working. I had new drill rotors, put those in. To make sure I had no leaks on my modified starion FMIC, I jb welded all the original welds that modified the end tanks. no problems so far.

I went in to try and turn on the car, I did, idleing like ----, FMU, but it turned on. The difference this time is that after about 10 seconds the car bogged and turned off. I did not accelerate or anything. I figure, well it's been sitting out here for a couple of months, so it is expected. I tried to turn it on again, it would crank but not fire, until the battery died again. I thought no biggie let me charge the battery a little more and it should be fine.

Now here comes the problem. I was going to lose the BOV a little bit more, because the last time I messed with it I screwed the adjusting screw all the way in, to hard. The BOV was not opening @4psi, so I'm thinking is just to tight. To adjust it, I need to take that first charge pipe out, because of the way the bov flange was welded, when I do, like a full glass of water comes out from inside the pipe. At this point I'm like WTF. How did water get into the charge pipes, and if there was water in there, did I hydrolocked the engine.

I took out my spark plugs, and there was no water in them or the cylinders, so I think I'm good there. But why would I have water inside the charge pipes. Damn. It has been raining for the pass like 4 days here in FL, pretty much no stop, but I don't think water should get inside the pipes, it was just sitting there. It was clear, clean rain water, so I know it did not come from the engine. I guess that explains why I had that big boost leak.

I'm using Homodepot couplings and raidator hoses. I'm pretty sure I'm leaking on the homodepot couplings. Hopefully it is not the FMIC.

This is more of a rant that a question, but Don't you think this is odd? Have any of you seen this before? Also can that be why the BOV was not opening? I'm guessing that by the time I left of the gas, boost would leak somewhere else and it did not create enough pressure to open the BOV.

Another quick question. Where does the vacuum line from the BOV should go, anywhere specific. I have it connected to the FPR.

Thanks in advance
David

BlinD

Damn. Thats pretty crazy. Dont know why water would be in there. I guess give the motor some time to dry and give it another shot. If you shine a flashlight into the spark plug hole can you see water? About the bov it shouldnt open all the way tightened. You got to loosen it up. For 4psi I'm sure it dont need to be much tighten then all the way loose.

davcivic

No. that's the first thing I checked, no water inside the cylinders at all. Thank God. Good thing I didn't rev it when it started the one time, I would have probably suck all the water in. I'm positive it could be the Homodepot couplings. It was raining all day saturday and sunday, and I was working outside under about 5 feet of roof in front of my house, there was a lot of water bouncing around and the crapy couplings always had a gap between them and the pipe that you could see. I'm thinking the water was just running down the pipe and leaking inside thru that gap. I'm done with those, I want to get better silicone, couplings. Hopefully that'll solve everything. It is an IHI rhb5, and they are set stock to 8psi, so I am expecting a little more boost, when the leaks are fixed.

projekteg

if water was able to leak between the coupling and the pipe, then it obviously wasn't water tight, which means it's not air tight either, which means that was prolly you problem to begin with

rudebwoy

exactly!

davcivic

Just what I'm finding out. That's what I thought. I'm using 2" piping, and they are 2" couplings, but for some reason, they don't seem to seal right. I will try some other things to see If I can get them to work. I'm thinking of getting a 2" radiator hose. I need to 90 deg bends, or take them somewhere and get them welded.
Thanks for the replies
David

kyle h.

got any pictures of these couplings? i couldnt imagine they would leak, with out being obviously noticable.

davcivic

I don't have any good pictures of them showing the gap. Yesterday I took one side of the charge pipe that had 3 of those coupling, 3 connections. I opened a hose and started to run some water down the pipe, and shure enough after a little while, there was water inside. I ghetto fixed it by putting about an 1" duck tape strip at the end of the pipes to get the diameter from 2" to about 2-1/8", then redid the clamps and tried the water test again. Perfect no water got in.

Then I took out the intercooler and closed up one side and with my air compressor started checking for air leaks. Found a pretty big one, took out the jb weld, redid that end tank, and it's waiting home for me to put it in tonight.

Hopefully this will take care of the problems, will let you know.
David

Tad

did you check if there was water in the IM ?