Darkelvis

Think again, it is possible: 10.882 at 132.21 MPH in the ZEX CRX. http://www.zex.com/Community/Projects/1989crx/

Spenser

If you are planning on running high boost, I'd recomend you upgrade to OBD1, since uberdata has larger tables, they allow for more precision, espcially when scalling it up to something like a 3 Bar map sensor. Then you'll need injectors, 550cc injectors would do you good,

For your engine since I doubt you know, you are gona need
-Forged pistons- stick with stock compression ratio, or alittle less. stock bore.
-Forged rods- H beams I do believe are stronger then the I beams, so go with them, unless you wana rev it to the moon
-Sleeves this is gona be the most expensive part of the build, there are a couple companies that sleeve blocks, or sell sleeved blocks.
-ARP rod bolts
-ARP head studs
-you could run a stock head gasket, but you could also run a aftermarket, your choice really.
-you might as well get a alittle head work done. You have a billion choices for the head, you could move up to the Z6 or y8 head, add a cam, Ti retainers, springs. new valves.
-you are also gona need a gasket kit for you bottom end, good piston rings,
-for the head, a gasket kit, and ofcourse valve seals.
-you are also gona need a oil catch can setup (endyn carries a good one)
-then add machine shop costs, misc stuff like motor mount inserts, front traction bar, thermostat.
-you might aswell get a new intake manifold, and throttle body, to extract the most horsepower possible.

Then for your turbo setup
-t3/t4 turbo, you could go GT series, hahahahahahahaha
-turbo manifold, don't bother with cast ones.
- big external wastegate, dumped into downpipe (put a flex pipe in there too)
- +3"downpipe, with flex pipe and wideband bung.
-big front mount intercooler, think 6 inch, but bigger, hhaha, or you could always go AWIC or alcohol
-charge piping(2.5 inch or 2.0, I personally think 2.5 is better), 4 ply silicone couplers, T bolt clamps.
-A bov that can take higher boost. The HKS one has a dual valve and is really responsive, just like the stock gen MR2 bov(best stock BOV ever made) boosts quicker after let off.
-3" exhaust, and muffler if you wana be legal(and cat too, but cats are jeiwsh)
-oil lines, stealthmodes got that ---- y0.

put it all together, you should probly get a half size aluminum rad, very strong clutch(think, expensive) axles that can take about 250 all motor hp(you'll make more, but since your turbo doesn't spool till later, you don't have to worry too much about breaking them at launching, remember to preload them too) a LSD, fatty slicks, random gauges, a lap top, a wideband. Larger fuel pump (255lph walbrow works good) you could also through in a alittle nitrous too, just for fun.

depending on what rules your track goes by, you'll probly need a role cage of some sort.

And then hope you don't blow it all up on the first run.

since you'll be spending all this money, you might aswell move up to a B-series, or H series, or k Series, or 460 big block, doesn't matter, but its not fun being the under dog.


good luck

RedCavz

What the hell? lol

2fast4udude

thanks SPenser. I already have that list built up and pinned up in the shop outside, checking things off as they come in. I had also already planned on going OBD1 as well, just because i was told uberdata was the better of the two. the t3/t4 setup will come through the winter. i just wanna build the motor to 15psi (if that) for now... but i want to have the motor READY to just do whatever fabbing i need to do to put the t3/t4 on through the winter. all forging will be done before the 14b even goes on, even thought i know it probably wont run that nicely due to the compression it'll have (so i've been told?).

thanks for the post!

samson

If you still want that block to work from and build I'd turn down the boost a little from 15psi.


JP

Spenser

D series blocks are what? 50 bucks? I sugest you put a turbo kit on your stock A6 for now, run turbo edit, 10-12 psi . Should be good for ~200whp, which will be plenty fast for you. Then buy a second block, and start building that up now.

Like honestly, all you need is forged pistons, rods, and some arp hardware. that will get you 300whp. Anything over 300whp in a 4th gen on the street is lame.

run a T3, ---- the 14b. mitsu stuff is absolute junk, and its expensive junk at that (once you start getting up into the 18gs 20gs and Fp greens)

Spenser

o yeah, and when you do build the motor, stick with something around stock compression (9.5:1) if you really wana lower it, get a thicker head gasket.

2fast4udude

like that idea, spenser, i might just use it.


annnnnnnnnd i dont recall ever saying i was "forging the block." just the internals, they'll be forged parts (ie, i'm purchasing parts that are forged parts... we're saying the same thing)


*EDIT
sorry, just saw "forging the block" in the first or second post there.. you know what i mean

Honda16hb

you guys and your d series love is making me want to sell my LS block and build up one of the d blocks I have sitting around. d blocks leave me so much more room in the engine bay. We'll see what happens when I get some money to start ------- around with .