MikeJ-2009

It seems we rarely post all the info your gonna need, we'd rather make you do the hard work (research) but you don't seem like one of those "new jackass kids" Here you go:

Block notching for pretty much any aftermarket rod is going to be mandatory:
www.theoldone.com (D series engine building tips)

Turbohf has rods and pistons on the first page of classifieds for a good price. Not sure the differences of regular D vs. ZC if any.

9.1 compression is fine.

Machine Work will be the majority of the money involved. (That was my case)

Stock rebuilt (cleaned, new seals) head will be fine.

Change rods, pistons, bearings, and use arp head studs.

Pick up a 60/63 t3 turbo off an old t-bird 87ish at the junkyard. 60/63 is the manual t-bird. 48.60 is automatic. Get the manual for big numbers.

All of my secret motor specs:

All bearing clearances (rod and crank) .015
piston to wall clearance .004
ring gaps .17

1gen dsm blow off valve
1gen dsm turbo fuel injectors
make your own piping
order a shitbird manifold (classifieds)
custom coach intercooler (speedpartsrus.com)
use the s-afc for fuel management to 10psi. (At this point you will be in the beginning stages of wanting to flirt with turboedit) (Engine Management)
2.5" or larger exhaust. Bigger is better.

I think that's it. Thats pretty much what I've done with $2000. -Steve

W O T

Sweet, thanks for the link and info.

I dunno if I want to buy a used turbo though. Or if I do Ill be looking to get one that has been rebuilt recently.

Also Ive got pretty much everything know except the engine management. What about spark? Do I have to get an aftermarket MSD setup?

Also whats with this S-AFC, what is it? Expensive? Easy to tune for beginners?

Ive rebuilt a few 305 and 350's with my dad so I know how to check clearances and proper bearing install/removal.

I most likely will be doing some headwork if I can find a place locally or maybe even just pick up a built head.

Thanks for th info, and no Im not one of those new jackasses lol, been on Honda-Tech since 02, just never got into boost.

MikeJ-2009

Used turbo = $80ish New turbo= at least $350 for anything good. We all run used turbo's, give it a try before you drop all that cash on a new one.

S-Afc made by Apex'i is a piggyback fuel controller that allows you to +/-50% fuel to the engine. Your basically putting larger injectors and scaling them down with the afc to make the car run. Runs about $200-$250 and is very easy to opperate. Generally kept within 10psi, but I've had mine up to 15psi with afc as management.

An MSD BTM is a good timing retarder per lbs of boost, but it isn't 100% neccessary. Some just retard 3 or 4 degrees and call it a day. The MSD is a better way of course.

We're just going to reffer all new members to this link from now on. hahaha. Welcome to HMT. I wonder what they would say if you asked these kinds of questions over on HT.

W O T

lol I did ask the same questions over there.

"If your a noob just dont boost your car, we dont want you in the crowd"
"Turbo cars are for people with knowledge, if you dont know, dont do it"

Like, everyone started off not knowing a thing about it had to learn somewhere, maybe @ 18 Im a little slow I dont know.

I would be looking to run around 15psi I think though. Just forged block and balanced crank all rebuilt with new bearings and rings, a little head work.

But if you look at the specs of the turbo I posted a few up, would that be a good turbo? How mcuh would it cost and would it be usuable (to long spool, to large, to small)

The numbers seem alright. I think I can do most of this myself as long as I learn how to wire some ---- lol, coming from v8's that only need air/spark/fuel to run.

S-AFC, is this just a unit that goes on my dash? Or does it replace my entire ecu? Ive got a pg7 right now.

Dam, so many things to learn. I wont be piecing until fall anyways and rebuilding/installing in the winter

MikeJ-2009

No, you don't say. I changed my mind too. I'm too damn smart to be talking to you. :P

The afc is just a small piggyback deal that wires into your ecu's harness. Looks like an electronic boost controller of sorts.
As far as the turbo, most of us don't disect compressor maps or anything. We generally stick to 3 or 4 variations of turbo's (off stock cars of course) that will achieve our goals. You can go as far as you'd like, but these are the most common turbo's you'll find here:

RHB5- small. Fast spool. For smaller motors. Not much of a drag turbo. More of road racing I'd say.

T25- Eclipse turbo. Fast spool on sohc's. good for road racing and such.

14B- Never dealt with this one. I think it's similar to a t25.

T3 42/48- Good spool with some high horse potential. Not the greatest for drag.

T3 48/60- A tad of lag (full boost on D16 about 4000) Can be a really good part time drag/higher power turbo.

T3 60/63 More lag than previous, Good for Street Dragger.

I hope without being all knowledgable I'm giving a "basic" understanding of what we like to use. I think the 60/63 at 15psi should get you really close to 300 if not actually hit it. Someone here ran 302hp on a D at 16psi. It's on the "turbo projects" page, but I can't remember the name of him. That will be a good place for you to look at some of the other setups. First shoot for 10psi on the hack. Get all of the parts that you'll need to go higher, but by the time you have the kit in and runnign at 10psi, I'll be asking you questions. I promise. -Steve

quadnie

I'm just suprised you never blew your old motor running dry shots of nitrous.

I think I'm gonna let Steve field all the answers for the rest of this thread

W O T

Blew my motor with a 65 shot? Hell no, compression is still 195 in all 4 like it was when I bought it. Burns no oil

Back to the turbo selection, the T3 48/60 what car does this come on stock? Also what does the 48 and 60 mean? 48=compressor wheel? 60 =

Arent there usually 3 numbers

I was thinking about running smaller boost but if I was only gonna do 10 psi, it wouldnt be worth it to go forged internals, low compression rods.

8.5:1 compession pistons would be great for that turbo right? I always thought the lower the better and more power you could make

Thanks again

baldur

The lower the better, to a certain extent.
Lower compression ratio = you can run more boost on the same fuel = you'll make more power.
At 20psi boost on pump fuel you will make more power with 8:1 compression than 9:1 because your spark timing can be more aggressive.

88crxSi

hey, I offered assistance on HT not smartass remarks! (crx_88_si) lol!

Welcome to HMT you're new obsession.

W O T

lol You got a lot of posts over here 2.