EBAY AIR/WATER? anyone use one?
01-22-2009, 11:52 PM
#1
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 954
EBAY AIR/WATER? anyone use one?
thinking of using one in my pile of ---- galant i have everything else , just need the cooler. idk if it would be effiecient enough? so im just seeeing if anyone has used one? i might give one a shot but im running a gm maft so i cant data log what the intake temps are... unless i can get something rigged up to tell me.
01-23-2009, 02:38 AM
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 723
Re: EBAY AIR/WATER? anyone use one?
If you look at a bunch of the A2W websites selling cores, they are spot-on identical to the ebay units. You might want to use a real Bosch (or whatever) pump for a 'baller' setup, since that's what they use in the Ford Mustangs with superchargers. You can actually build a good setup for less than the cost of a Precision FMIC, and it will kill that FMIC.
As usual, complex is looking at the overall picture with blinders on. :1 A2W is much more efficient, as long as your heat exchanger gets airflow, and its also the only way to get below ambient if you use ice. Since the cores are much smaller, the pressure drop is virtually zero. I was looking at an A2W setup for my Civic, but I need a redesign because I didn't have that in mind originally.
If you have room for a FMIC, you can get a large heat exchanger with more surface area than any FMIC of the same exterior dimensions. And since the water flowing through the heat exchanger rarely goes 20-30F above ambient - your radiator can cool much easier. You can also slap a large fan on it in certain applications.
BTW if you want to measure air temps before/after, I know some subie guys have a lead on some temp setup to do that. You'd have to search the NASIOC forum. You could also get fast-reading, open-element GM IAT sensors and a plain old volt meter display, and just do the math. IAT sensors are just thermistors, and can be wired so X temp = X voltage, etc.
As usual, complex is looking at the overall picture with blinders on. :1 A2W is much more efficient, as long as your heat exchanger gets airflow, and its also the only way to get below ambient if you use ice. Since the cores are much smaller, the pressure drop is virtually zero. I was looking at an A2W setup for my Civic, but I need a redesign because I didn't have that in mind originally.
If you have room for a FMIC, you can get a large heat exchanger with more surface area than any FMIC of the same exterior dimensions. And since the water flowing through the heat exchanger rarely goes 20-30F above ambient - your radiator can cool much easier. You can also slap a large fan on it in certain applications.
BTW if you want to measure air temps before/after, I know some subie guys have a lead on some temp setup to do that. You'd have to search the NASIOC forum. You could also get fast-reading, open-element GM IAT sensors and a plain old volt meter display, and just do the math. IAT sensors are just thermistors, and can be wired so X temp = X voltage, etc.
01-23-2009, 03:07 AM
#5
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,349
Re: EBAY AIR/WATER? anyone use one?
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index...3cd57d3152328c
hit up harbor frieght for the pump.
use a 5 bucket with a lid, hoses, and a heater core.
There great for drag setups with a big cooler full of ice.
hit up harbor frieght for the pump.
use a 5 bucket with a lid, hoses, and a heater core.
There great for drag setups with a big cooler full of ice.
01-23-2009, 10:39 AM
#6
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,330
Re: EBAY AIR/WATER? anyone use one?
Originally Posted by HiProfile
BTW if you want to measure air temps before/after, I know some subie guys have a lead on some temp setup to do that. You'd have to search the NASIOC forum. You could also get fast-reading, open-element GM IAT sensors and a plain old volt meter display, and just do the math. IAT sensors are just thermistors, and can be wired so X temp = X voltage, etc.
01-23-2009, 02:55 PM
#8
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 0
Re: EBAY AIR/WATER? anyone use one?
Originally Posted by HiProfile
If you look at a bunch of the A2W websites selling cores, they are spot-on identical to the ebay units. You might want to use a real Bosch (or whatever) pump for a 'baller' setup, since that's what they use in the Ford Mustangs with superchargers. You can actually build a good setup for less than the cost of a Precision FMIC, and it will kill that FMIC.
As usual, complex is looking at the overall picture with blinders on. :1 A2W is much more efficient, as long as your heat exchanger gets airflow, and its also the only way to get below ambient if you use ice. Since the cores are much smaller, the pressure drop is virtually zero. I was looking at an A2W setup for my Civic, but I need a redesign because I didn't have that in mind originally.
If you have room for a FMIC, you can get a large heat exchanger with more surface area than any FMIC of the same exterior dimensions. And since the water flowing through the heat exchanger rarely goes 20-30F above ambient - your radiator can cool much easier. You can also slap a large fan on it in certain applications.
BTW if you want to measure air temps before/after, I know some subie guys have a lead on some temp setup to do that. You'd have to search the NASIOC forum. You could also get fast-reading, open-element GM IAT sensors and a plain old volt meter display, and just do the math. IAT sensors are just thermistors, and can be wired so X temp = X voltage, etc.
As usual, complex is looking at the overall picture with blinders on. :1 A2W is much more efficient, as long as your heat exchanger gets airflow, and its also the only way to get below ambient if you use ice. Since the cores are much smaller, the pressure drop is virtually zero. I was looking at an A2W setup for my Civic, but I need a redesign because I didn't have that in mind originally.
If you have room for a FMIC, you can get a large heat exchanger with more surface area than any FMIC of the same exterior dimensions. And since the water flowing through the heat exchanger rarely goes 20-30F above ambient - your radiator can cool much easier. You can also slap a large fan on it in certain applications.
BTW if you want to measure air temps before/after, I know some subie guys have a lead on some temp setup to do that. You'd have to search the NASIOC forum. You could also get fast-reading, open-element GM IAT sensors and a plain old volt meter display, and just do the math. IAT sensors are just thermistors, and can be wired so X temp = X voltage, etc.
01-23-2009, 03:30 PM
#9
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 954
Re: EBAY AIR/WATER? anyone use one?
i have the lines and a pump off a supercharged ford truck and the heat exchanger off it too and the 3 gallon tank for the trunk. i was just wondering on the efficiency, looks like im going that route and yes its very tough to fit a nice fmic up there with oil cooler and radiator and the way the reinforcement is in there and how huge it is.
i think i can fit a full neon radiator up under my rad support. for room for the larger holset
i think i can fit a full neon radiator up under my rad support. for room for the larger holset
01-23-2009, 04:58 PM
#10
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 0
Re: EBAY AIR/WATER? anyone use one?
good luck with that pump in your setup 
personally, you need to get a nicer pump, like a magnetic driven blade.....
oh ----, speaking of which, i just happen to have a NICE SureFlo unit that kills that pump all to hell. because of the length of tubing your going to use, IMO, you will want to upgrade your pump.
plus, the exchanger from that ford is poo poo too. you should upgrade to a VW Sorroco (spelling?) radiator as the exchanger.....
oh ----, speaking of which, i just happen to have a NICE brand new unit.
by the way, i have had these sitting in my garage for a while now, taking up space. if your interested in upgrading a bit let me know, i am sure i can hook you up with a balling *** price
personally, you need to get a nicer pump, like a magnetic driven blade.....
oh ----, speaking of which, i just happen to have a NICE SureFlo unit that kills that pump all to hell. because of the length of tubing your going to use, IMO, you will want to upgrade your pump.
plus, the exchanger from that ford is poo poo too. you should upgrade to a VW Sorroco (spelling?) radiator as the exchanger.....
oh ----, speaking of which, i just happen to have a NICE brand new unit.
by the way, i have had these sitting in my garage for a while now, taking up space. if your interested in upgrading a bit let me know, i am sure i can hook you up with a balling *** price
