He is not running a wet injected system, from what i saw in the pictures, it is actually vaporized before it touches the mixer. The Draw through systems work very well and have been used for years. I am running a draw through system on my toyota 22re. there are no nozzles or computers needed. this is a simple system that is perfect for trail use. This is the got propane rig, draw through, 22re, turbo. From what i heard its pushing 300hp, and is mated to a c4.

Sorry to get off topic, is this what your doing with bike turbo's? If so what controller are you using? I think with the right turbo the draw through would work, but I would think it would be a bit more lag?

Maybe I am not understanding how the propane delivery works? Would the throttle plate be before or after the turbo on the draw through?

I have a 79 turbo 2.3 Mustang that is a factory draw though set up. They discontinued them due to reliability issues. But for a person that is often under the hood and maintaining I don't think it is such an issue. The general public doesn't want a car that needs lots of tuning but it doesn't sound like that describes you. My Mustang pulled well at the lower rpms and the turbo lag was minimal even though that engine was only rated at 135 hp vs. the stock carbed engine at 88ish. I also once had a 86 SVO that pulled really well (205 hp) at most speeds once you got the turbo spooled up. The SVO had a Garrett and I am not sure what the 79 Mustang has. The 79 Mustang set up requires a cross under pipe since the turbo and the exhaust are on opposite sides then the down pipe crosses back under then the exhaust crosses again at the cat con. Silly system, i think you could do better. The 79 turbo 2.3 has forged pistons so I am sure you will want to do that at least if you want it to live even at 6 psi. A donor car would be ideal.

i personally dont use this with bike turbos as there are many power commanders out there for motorcycles. i only use an extra injector controller when it is difficult to get a vehicle tuned. im currently using this system on my 06 chevy cobalt because there is only one tuning option for it and its mail order. i tried it and it didnt work so i made the extra injector setup.

on a draw through setup the carb would sit on top of the turbo air inlet. as the turbo spools up it will suck in more air creating more vacuum which will add more fuel. it works for a cheap budget. the bad thing is your adding fuel to the turbo compressor, boost pipes and intake. also this setup is only good for low boost as its limited. this system is also prone to problems. if i remember correctly the older 80's masserati bi turbos used a carbd turbo setup and it was the most unreliable turbo vehicle on earth.

fwiw, some older mustangs came with a draw thru carbed turbo setup for the ford 2.3 already. fabricate an adapter for your lpg carb, should make it a bolt on affair

any updates on this ??

unfortunately nothing has happened yet but it will! soon.I think im going go with the 16g turbo,its water cooled,im told its a quick spooler and are cheap and easy to get.

I may get started on this this winter.

When I get my 79 Mustang running again it will be a draw through as original but I will shortly convert it to a blow through carb system.

Carbon seals schmeals
 

as I read your old queries, had exactly the same years ago, read of same concerns, was curious, was it going to work, how would I do it, how, how, how.

The carbon seal issue arises with others and their attempts to put a throttle just afater fresh filtered air intake - that is when you need carbon seals as I have found !

After so much misleading research I propaned an existing turbo engine as : air filter > IMPCO 200 mixer > turbo > throttle body already mounted on the intake manifold >> and it is in under pressure ! I have disconnected the ecu except for its egr controls, the dizzy runs separate advance and boost retard from the main ecu , and I can monitor the diagnostics to see when knock sensor is in retard mode - not very often even when wound up to 12psi ! Knocked up 50,000miles of tar and track!

Bit scary knowing boosted combustibles in there but ensure good plugs and gap them down to about 0.2mm less than petrol - I run 0.6 to 0.8mm gaps , quality leads every 30,000 miles, cap and rotor button and double up ignition earths and battery to body earths to be sure.

I found same turbo would be either easier to zing out to redline with a larger hole in the plate the turbo sat on with exhaust from turbo OR more torquey down low with a smaller orofice.

Running 1800cc and 36mm orofice is prefered over the 40mm.

Just in here searching for BOV exhausting knowledge which seems limited everywhere in English speaking cyberspace. Mine is to exhaust downstream of the mixer into safe contained territory...not sure what it is going to do yet.

Go for it and good luck!!