Doing Rebuilt... drop engine in with tubo on it?
11-17-2003, 01:03 AM
#1
1.0 BAR
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 214
Doing Rebuilt... drop engine in with tubo on it?
ok i am doing a full rebuild right now.... and am curious... do i have to break the engine in before i put the turbo on? Or can i just slap the turbo on there then drop it in and break it in with it on..... I know your not supposed to go hard on it for like 2000 miles.... And i didnt know if the turbo would ---- something up. I will be dropping a built z6 motor in with a super 60 t3 on it.... I didnt really wanna take the engine out after i put it in.. but i realized it would have been somuch easier mounting everything from a previous 14b setup i had. So the main question is can the turbo be on it when i put it in there. Or should i wait then put it on... I wanna be safe and not BLOW this engine up lol... the 1.5 went capluwey.. and i dont feel like snapping one of my new Eagle rods 
11-17-2003, 01:19 AM
#3
1.0 BAR
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 214
Re:Doing Rebuilt... drop engine in with tubo on it?
:P go buy it off ebay or something lol mines stickin with me.....So the break in period is just mainly so that the rings seat correctly?....so i could put the turbo on it... just make sure i dont ever hit boost and dont take it above 4K rpms.. for 2k miles....... i think i might just leave it off that way dont hvae to worry about containing myself.......
11-17-2003, 02:54 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 438
Re:Doing Rebuilt... drop engine in with tubo on it?
It depends on where you live. The ideal situation to break in a motor is on a dyno. A motor can be fully broken in in about 20 minutes. I posted the website on how to do it before. Search google for motoman breakin method.
Basically, what you want to do is fill the motor with non detergent 30w oil. Cheaper the better.
Turbo shouldn't change anything as long as the car has a decent basemap.
Drop everything in, double check everything, start the car, drive somewhere big and long (empty wide road, empty stretch of highway) and as soon as the ****** warms up, you want to get into like 3rd gear. Start from like 2k rpms, and go almost to redline at 1/4 throttle. Let off the gas, dont press clutch, and let motor wind itself down to like 2000 rpms again.
once you are at 2k, still in 3rd, repeat the process w/ half throttle. take it a little closer to redline this time, and then let it windddd down. The wind down is important.
Repeat with 3/4 throttle, to redline, then finally a full throttle run to redline and back. Once you hit redline, downshift thorugh all the gears, letting the motor wind down down down...
get home, and change the oil immideatley.
Your motor is now basically broken in. You can go repeat the procedure once more on the new oil if you choose, In fact, i'd reccomend it. You dont' need to cahnge the oil so soon this time though. Not much more metal will be falling off after you do this the first time, so I'd say after the first change, make #2 @ 3k miles.
After the inital breakin I outlined for you, your motor is all set to drive how you want. The biggest thing to avoid is letting your new motor idle. it needs to be taken to redline as soon as it's warmed up and the crosshatch has to be worn away to seat the rings. If you idle your motor, you will ruin the crosshatch while never seating the rings w/o any cylindar pressures- and ur motor will be ---- the whole life of it.
@ 3k miles, you are ready to switch to your oil of choice (I prefer mobil1).
Good luck!
EDIT: here's the site http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
DO it this way, you won't be unhappy!
Basically, what you want to do is fill the motor with non detergent 30w oil. Cheaper the better.
Turbo shouldn't change anything as long as the car has a decent basemap.
Drop everything in, double check everything, start the car, drive somewhere big and long (empty wide road, empty stretch of highway) and as soon as the ****** warms up, you want to get into like 3rd gear. Start from like 2k rpms, and go almost to redline at 1/4 throttle. Let off the gas, dont press clutch, and let motor wind itself down to like 2000 rpms again.
once you are at 2k, still in 3rd, repeat the process w/ half throttle. take it a little closer to redline this time, and then let it windddd down. The wind down is important.
Repeat with 3/4 throttle, to redline, then finally a full throttle run to redline and back. Once you hit redline, downshift thorugh all the gears, letting the motor wind down down down...
get home, and change the oil immideatley.
Your motor is now basically broken in. You can go repeat the procedure once more on the new oil if you choose, In fact, i'd reccomend it. You dont' need to cahnge the oil so soon this time though. Not much more metal will be falling off after you do this the first time, so I'd say after the first change, make #2 @ 3k miles.
After the inital breakin I outlined for you, your motor is all set to drive how you want. The biggest thing to avoid is letting your new motor idle. it needs to be taken to redline as soon as it's warmed up and the crosshatch has to be worn away to seat the rings. If you idle your motor, you will ruin the crosshatch while never seating the rings w/o any cylindar pressures- and ur motor will be ---- the whole life of it.
@ 3k miles, you are ready to switch to your oil of choice (I prefer mobil1).
Good luck!
EDIT: here's the site http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
DO it this way, you won't be unhappy!
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