sibluesol

Anyone know what the power capability of a d16z6 is before things start letting go. Assuming that the air/fuel ratio is good and the motor is in decent shape.

Dr.Boost

Jan style Y0!! The guy was throwing down 306 whp on stock internals with a D16Z6.

https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...d=5867;start=0
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Chacko

If your air/fuel ratio is constantly perfect, and engine temperatures remain ambient there is no real limit to the potential of power.

The problems arise when your fuel starts lacking to match with the air coming in. Or when heat raises to high and your cylinders are able to ignite before compression is completed. As air compression rises, so must the precision of fuel delivered. Unfortunately the factory Honda ECUs cannot keep up with this (there is no reason for them to, they were not designed to do this).

All in all - the only real limits to the engine are the point at which there is to much air and fuel that it literally will be unable to compress because the air and fuel is abundant that it creates a squishing effect (this is currently impossible to reach by practical means).

Now there is the reality check here, for a practical daily car that you don't have to worry alot about. Stick to minimum boost, run 5 psi intercooled and leave the timing just slightly more retarded then factory. Upgrade your fuel pump, replace the injectors, and use a fuel control unit for management.
You can even get a bit more complicated and use a timing control unit, so that you can stay advaned on the lower RPM spectrum (aiding to rid turbo lag).

If you want to go all out performance, I am running spikes up to 14 psi on my motor without pinging under boost. However, because of the way I am adjusting fuel curves (AFC hack) the engine will ping after shifting from hi to lo throttle points (to advanced, and to hot). With a scare of blowing this motor up, I run as little boost as I can daily. It also helps with fuel economy.

To determine what you can do, look at your expenses and see if its worth it. Don't just boost without being ready to accept a blown motor.

88crxSi

All in all - the only real limits to the engine are the point at which there is to much air and fuel that it literally will be unable to compress because the air and fuel is abundant that it creates a squishing effect (this is currently impossible to reach by practical means).

uhm.. sorta.. The stock sleeves will crack when u get to nuts w/ the boost. just from pressure. not detonation. or they wabble around.

Chacko

Ah yes, that would be so. Attempting to compress air thats already compressed, will ultimately result in destruction of the engine from the inside out.

Chacko

But for the purpose of answering the question, you can run as much as you want as long as you have the money to keep up with it.

Understand the basics of a motor first, understand how it operates, then you can know exactly how you can increase its potential energy.

89dxhunchback

Water injection, bigger turbo, big IC, and larger injectors are great tools for making the motor live a longer and powerful life.

I think the guy pushing 300whp turned the boost up a little more and his motor turned into one of the coolest garnedes I've ever seen !!! I think he was running 18-19psi, and then upped the boost to the low 20's and the motor knocked, then left the building.

Tuning out knock is the key. I've always heard 220hp from the HMT guys. But my goal is 250whp in track/dyno form and 160-170-180hp in daily form.

Just think, that's 300whp on a motor that made only 105ish WHP from the factory.

BTW I think people get carried away with the RPMs too. 18psi, 7800rpms, 1.6L... Just don't sound right.

The 300whp car also had stock 9.2/1 compression, which makes me think twice about dropping compression, but then again, I don't want to have a 250whp for 10 runs, looking at more in the area of 500 runs ( I hope ).

200whp is kicking ***, and pretty safe if tuned correctly.

250whp is pushing it a lot, but if only pushed to the limit in "race only" mode, I think it would be "OK".

300Whp is just stupid if you wanna drive the car more than 10% of the time and your broke like me...

Even a honda with 200whp "an't no joke !!"

Chacko

Water injection is a wonderful way to keep pinging down. I am using it, without intercooler, and running 13 psi daily with very little pinging (there is pinging as a result of the fuel management I'm using when changing from heavy to light throttle and only for a couple seconds, because the injection isn't set to pulse unless there is boost).

a 300 wheel horsepower engine, can't be to hard to accomplish as long as you can keep the knocking down and have a pretty good sized turbo. Just remember that engine knocking occurs when conditions become to extreme, if you can keep the conditions reasonable you shouldn't have any problems.

BoostedED9

the car blew up because of a warped headgasket wich let water into cyl 3 under high high boost. it did not blow up because of too much boost. and if i realy wanted to make the car last a long time with high hp i would have made it that way by really tuning it. remember this car was runing for a good 3 or so months of drag racing and dyno time along with some street miles as well, if it wasnt for the car overheating because of a bad fan connection the head would have never warped and the motor would not have blown.